cgsheen1

Oh, you should have said this in the beginning... You read what I said about the right turn signal pilot being tied to the right front turn signal lamp wiring? You have no idea if "your turn signals work" if you're only able to test the rear lights. I also said the turn signal lamps were on 2 separate circuits - one front, one rear. In this case it certainly can be an issue with the right turn signal SWITCH. That is as a very common problem.

The wiring diagram says that shouldn't happen as the power to that lamp comes directly off the wiring that powers the turn signal. It gets its ground from the gauge body. The stock '72 has 2 turn signal circuits - one for the front (GB & GR), one for the rear (WB & WR). The right turn signal pilot lamp is connected to the GB wiring to the front turn signal lamp. If the right front turn signal lamp is working, so should the pilot lamp. The hazard switch sends power through the same wiring... That's IF everything is still stock - I've seen a LOT of under dash wiring that is NOT. Otherwise, oddity.

The insulator on the left is either damaged or modified. It should look like the one on the right and the front insulators have a bearing between the insulator and the top perch (in stock form) so turning can happen without friction on the insulator.

The steering column is grounded to the frame by it's mounting bolts. There isn't a specific ground wire connected to it. There is a large ground wire at the steering column to provide the grounds needed by the switches on the column but it's not directly attached to the column itself. Is your frame ground intact?

I use cotton twine (rope) and wet it before inserting it in the groove. It's amazing how it cuts the rope friction pulling it out of the rubber (and makes pulling those corners easier). My son and I generally tackle windshield and hatch glass together but I'm going to try your solo method - sounds solid.

Due to a NASA (supposed to be) weekend on stock brakes (which lasted about 2 track sessions with the instructor) I started out with the 4-piston non-vented mounted on stock disc. (just the caliper change and I can't remember the friction material - probably semi-metallic back then) The "butt dyno" couldn't really tell the difference between this and stock. Disappointed, I installed the Z31 vented rotors with the 4-Runner wide calipers (stock master and booster) - friction was either semi-metallic or ceramic, can't remember. I noticed a good improvement in braking and a large improvement in fade and heat dissipation. A short time later, I installed Porterfield friction material on all four wheels (stock drums in back). These pads grip about the same as an OEM with normal street traffic, when they warm up they get VERY grippy and do not fade. Goldie likes to hill climb (L28ET builds a lot of torque) and coming back down the hill is much less dicey with this particular friction. At the bottom I still have full confidence as these grab better at the bottom than they did at the top and I've yet to experience fade. I've been on this setup for 7-8 years and I daily drive my 260Z. I still use the stock master. My youngest son did the same brake swap on his 1975 280Z but replaced the master with a 15/16 280ZX master cylinder. I'm sure there's some difference, but I've never really been able to tell when I drive his car.

It's probably the switch itself and it's a very common problem. Lots of threads about these issues. Left is pretty common because the mechanics of the switch causes the contact end to be pushed up. Gravity and worn parts tend to pull the contact away or cause it not to fully engage.

Printer files have been on thingiverse for quite a while for this and many other Datsun parts.

It's a coil (much like the filament of an incandescent light bulb in this case - the filament itself doesn't actually care which way the electricity flows) so it'll work as long as one side is battery voltage and the other side ground. You should be able to see it work when it gets voltage if the hoses are disconnected. You can look through the hose connections and see the shuttle. It should be mostly open when it's cold and has no voltage. Once it has voltage, the coil will heat the bi-metal strip and cause it to bend, which moves the shuttle slowly until it closes the port. It takes a couple of minutes.

There are only 2 flare connections and the large o-ring that seals the expansion valve inside the dash. They're fairly easy to access and soap since they're right in front of the evaporator. Although not impossible, I would highly doubt a leak on the evaporator itself. My bet would be that your leak is probably the compressor. Another tip about "soaping" joints: It's actually better to test with low pressure. Sometimes high pressure will just blow the leak locator solution away from the joint so quickly that you won't actually see it. In that case it's better to use a more viscous locator solution. In this case just go slowly and make sure the solution envelopes the fitting and you're checking all angles. You can locate leaks in piping with 1/2 PSI. Few people know this but the natural gas piping to a residence comes into the home at 1/2 PSI. We test the natural gas piping to 10 PSI for 30 minutes, but you can see a leak bubbling the leak locator at 1/2 PSI.

Check for power and also check the connector for corrosion / oxidation and clean it. It's a Bosch connector just like the injector connectors and can be replaced with a new one if necessary.

😅😂🤣

Oh, so you have a Volkswagen engine builder over there as well!

The front part of the head gasket seals the head to the front cover. When you pull the front cover while leaving the head attached, you need to pay special attention to the head gasket seal in that area when you reinstall the front cover - and it will require sealant which is tricky because the gasket will likely be oily. Some people cut the gasket back at the block face, clean it, the bottom of the head, top of the front cover, and put it back in place with sealant on both surfaces and "back in the corner" at the cut line. I do. It's good insurance. I imagine everyone has their preferred method. A Volkswagen engine builder taught me to apply a gasket sealer (I use Permatex gasket maker in the tube) this way: rubber gloves, put a small amount of sealer on your gloved finger, press it to your thumb, pinch the gasket between your thumb and finger lightly and keep pinching until you need more sealant then repeat. The object is to put a very thin layer of the sealant on both sides of the gasket and you can even it out by going back over the heavier parts when your finger has run out. This way you have a little added protection and you don't have RTV oozing out the sides (both inside the engine and out...) Ya, it's kind of a PITA, but it's worth it.

Yup, that "horse hair" jute batting was used extensively in upholstery back in the day. It's replaced these days with another form of breathable batting which I would use in the areas that had the jute in the first place. There needs to be something between the springs and the seat bottom foam or the foam will suffer. And I think the comment above about the jute in the seat back is entirely accurate. I'd use a thin-ish piece of batting there also. You can buy upholstery batting any number of places - Walmart, fabric store. Just be sure to get Upholstery Batting (quilt & etc. batting is different stuff). This is more than you would ever need, but it shows what I'm referring to: Amazon.com: AK TRADING CO - 48" x 5 Yards. Bonded Dacron CertiPUR-US® Certified. (Seat Replacement, Upholstery Sheet, Foam Padding) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

It's a drag working in the heat (at least here in Phoenix it's "a dry heat"...) but first thing I would have done was pop the top off a float bowl and see if there's any fuel in there. Well, maybe I'd pull the fuel line off the rail and run a 3 or 4 foot piece of hose off it into a fuel can to verify that the pump was pushing fuel first, then check the float bowl. Gotta check when you're having the problem though. Carbs (I thank goodness every day that I have none) don't run off the pump, or the rail, or the fuel lines. They run off the float bowls. If there's no fuel in there it's somebody else's fault... Figure that out. If there IS fuel in there and the engine doesn't run then it has to do with delivery from the bowl to the carb - bowl outlet, weird little hose, jet, needle... Personally I'd lower the jet (L-series seem to hate idling lean) - you accomplish the same thing pulling the choke - because I'd bet that your "altitude/temperature correction" is off. My second bet, if the jet/needle setting is correct, that there's either a restriction aggravated by temperature or your fuel pump / fuel system is affected negatively by increased temperature. I also wouldn't be surprised if your float valves stuck intermittently (cooler fuel (more dense) will push them back open but hot fuel (less dense) and/or vapor will not). Or, maybe your carbs aren't set up and sync'd properly at all... (And I definitely WON'T say that I have a 240Z in the shop right now in the 100+ (113 the other day) degree heat (L28, SU round tops, electric fuel pump, MSA header with a stock heat shield (for an N33 intake), no shroud, alum radiator, stock fuel rail (that is not bolted to the head however), and also - no coolant to intake manifolds...) that doesn't have any "vapor lock" issues. I didn't make it that way - but someone did. Nope, I'm not going to say that...)

Yes.

Same here, I broke down and installed LED gauge bulbs last October. I bought the ones on Amazon with the frosted plastic domes. Much brighter gauges and they dim with the stock rheostat. If you're still looking to buy incandescent, you might try an aircraft supply place like AircraftSpruce.com. Many general aviation aircraft are old, and certified aircraft uses mainly old tech so there are a lot of old aircraft gauges still being used - they all need bulbs. I think that place has a fairly large selection of GE incandescent bulbs.

The seal on there currently belongs on the back side window frame, not the front

Are you saying that you've adjusted the nut out far enough that it's now causing the fork to put constant pressure on the pressure plate? Just wait for the longer collar.

Damn gravity...

We have used Meguiar's Hyper Dressing for 12+ years on Z car rubber, vinyl, and plastic. You don't ordinarily use it full strength, you thin it as desired with distilled water. We normally use a 50/50 mix but you can get any consistency you like. Cuz Arizona, we can get pretty crispy plastic, vinyl and rubber trim and weatherstrip. I've put plastics covered with Hyper Dressing in a zip-loc bag that are "dried out" to the cracking stage and brought them back to reasonably flexible within a few weeks (clam shell, switch plastics, gauge bezels, and etc.). We use it almost exclusively when we detail - great on tires too. A guy in the club here swears by 303 but I've never used it. I have Mothers Back To Black but it sits on the shop shelf.

I'm embarrassed to say yes, I do remember Joe Isuzu...

Sounds like you have a 240Z but in any case, the dash frame to body connection points are well away from the jockey box (now you see how old I am - almost no one calls them a jockey box anymore). Most of the rest under there bolts to the body independently. Once you disconnect things like the speedo cable, wiring to the door buttons, flasher, stop lamp switch, switches on the steering column, remove the center panel, disconnect wiring to the console, loosen up the fuse box, disconnect the blower motor wiring and the ductwork to the side vents and defrost, remove the steering wheel, drop the steering column, you'll almost be able to pull that dash right out!

I'm in Phoenix and have always used the stock clutch fan on my L28ET. It's always worked well even with A/C and an intercooler, and they're readily available.