Patcon

Did you torque the suspension sitting on the ground or up in the air? Did you get all the spring in the correct location? You can check the car by putting the car up level on 4 jack stands. Measure the car to the floor at each corner to multiple places, the wheel arch the suspension mounts the frame rails, the rocker panels. If the frame is tweaked badly it will show up. Make sure none of the suspension arms are bent... By the way nice deer...

Picking up a new head won't be a cheap option. He has a turbo car and those heads trade at a premium and then you would have to make sure all the hydraulic adjusters are good. I would remove the intake and exhaust, if there is enough to grab acetone/ ATF for a couple of days, hit the end with a hammer and try to vise grip it out. If it wont come out, remove the head and drill it out or take it to a machine shop for removal.

Welding will help but the larger thread size is better. I believe my puller is 1" threaded rod...

Did you tear the end off the threaded rod?

I would think the option would have been ordered by the dealer the way cars are down now and the dealer could have also ordered a loose part for replacement too.

Galvanic corrosion can make it really difficult to get studs out after 35 years. You will still have to pull everything off to even get a grip on it....

Applied model says "OP 4speed" is that how other optional equipment is called out on the parts diagrams?

Yes, you will probably need to get another washer and a thrust bearing. Once they start moving they pull on out, getting them moving can be a problem especially if you flared one end. Edit: Looks good though. Nice to have those kind of facilities at hand...

If you could do a property tax search. The property owner would probably give the car to someone who would haul it off. The car is a parts car any way so title isn't a big issue.

Glad it was an easy fix! Enjoy the cocktails...

I am, but a little too far away...

Are you sure there is not a lot of debris in the tank?

So you can blow air into the outlet and hear it coming into the tank? You can blow air into the filler neck and fuel comes out or you are blowing air into the return line and fuel comes out? Once fuel flows out it wont continue to come out even with a section of fuel line acting as a siphon? Is the filler cap on or off when fuel won't flow out?

I know the dimples are a factory look but I do like the very clean crisp ways these rod shops detail cars. That is a cool tip. I didn't recognize the product he used first as a hard substrate, you need that otherwise the built up areas are easily damaged. He's not afraid to use filler either...

That is insane!!!! No way

I will look to see what I have...

It is the magnetic pick up for a cruise control system. there are probably magnets taped or epoxied to the drive shaft that would have lined up with the sensor. 4 gallons is more than enough fuel to pick up, there is an issue somewhere else...

Play solitaire on your phone, helps keep you awake...good hunting...

wheee! I would suggest you experiment a little, shoot some color over a white primer, over gray and black. I believe you are shooting the green metallic. Then see which color you like the best. Under lighter colors it can make a big difference. The guys at the paint shop told me about this. Your green may not change that much or you may like the effect of the other darker colors underneath. This is why red Ferraris are primed with pink primer, it makes the red really red. ksechler I agree with wheee! the engine bay probably won't matter because there are no large flat surfaces and they are at irregular angles and different lighting. Edit: Also remember with yellow, every coat you add changes the color a little bit, red does the same thing, so it is important to try to lay on the same number of coats on the panels and the same amount of paint.

I find that time not money is the bigger challenge for me completing my car projects. Now don't get me wrong we live very modestly on a very tight budget but I go months between episodes in the shop working on the Z. That being said there are several projects that I can think of I would donate to. Blue has a very low number car that is on his project list and the super low number car on the forum that looks like swiss cheese is another. Another way to invest in the projects would be to help with parts. I have quite a number of parts laying around and would gladly help these projects that are very rare cars. I suspect that between the entire forum we could cobble together a lot of the parts necessary for some of these low number cars.

If you do a side by side comparison it becomes really obvious. The white base coat doesn't add much cost and is reduced with lacquer thinner, so easy to use. A white sealer would be good or possibly better because it's a sealer, but sometimes I have a hard time finding someone who has it in stock.

No mat just the fiberglass. I use an Evercoat product that is catalyzed the same as body filler. It's green before adding the catalyzer. It is a little thicker than body filler. Smear a thin layer over your welded areas after they are ground down. If you have a pinhole it will fill it so water can't come up through it from the back side and bubble the paint. body filler is not water proof, the FG is

Looks good. I assume your finish paint for the exterior is yellow? Have you shot any test cards? When I did test panels I found that I needed to shoot white down first to get the yellow to look good, over grey it has a little green color. You're jambing the car out like I have; I used single stage over uncatalyzed white base coat but you have to top coat within 24 hrs. I have planned on 2 stage for the exterior but I think single stage looks more period correct. I still have time to decide since I haven't finished painting the suspension yet...

ksechler, you are really close to being "All down hill from here..." I think getting through finish paint is the hardest part of this kind of project. In areas like behind the drivers side wheel where you repaired it, I always use a skim coat of fiberglass over the weld seam before using filler. The fiberglass fills any pin holes in the seams and prevents water from coming in from the backside and causing bubbles. Pointed this out for anyone else doing this kind of work. No reason for you to go backwards at this point.

Charlie Osbourne makes the best floor boards in my opinion. Stampings are really close, with a little massaging on install the repairs are invisible...