Patcon

20012, I wonder if that is the old plating formula or the new formula. You might want to ask because it will change your approach slightly. Also I don't know if the old and new formulas are compatible. Would love to have some more input from another plater to help narrow down the best process

That's why I think they are

@65 Tuxedo

I tried spraying carb cleaner down it. I thought it probably went straight down but I couldn't see it in the bore. Not surprising with the amount of corrosion. I am withholding the after clean up pictures for now. I eventually got both SU's apart and cleaned up. I had to use a heat gun and assorted methods to get the throttle plates moving and out. I believe these were rebuilt by Ztherapy at one time. I am still hoping I can get it running. Then I will show what it's using to run with... If I can get the motor free enough and get the starter to spin it.Then I will try to get a spark and fire it up...

I finally made some more progress on the car. I have been trying to get the fuel line brackets plated properly and that has delayed progress. I just about have all of them properly plated. I started on fuel lines and brakes lines today. The really long lines are a challenge. I have the old lines that I can duplicate from. I am using the Fedhill material. I should have made better pictures on disassembly. Having to reference the other z in the yard and motormans thread. One trick I have come up with is to use blue tape to help duplicate the lines... As I bend them I tape them together. Then I cut it to length when I get close to the end.

I did some plating last weekend which was a challenge because some of my tanks froze. This was frozen solid! Took 2 hours to defrost on high. Got mixed results last week. It was better but still not right.Tried .14 / .16 / .18 per squ in So I moved the plating setup into the shop, and I did some more plating today. I made some progress... I did add the dilute muriatic acid / water / alcohol / water steps. I am not sure they helped. I haven't added another pump yet. I think what made the biggest difference was I ran more current. I hung a part in the plating tank. Then I cut off the pump and turned up the current until the part bubbled.Then I backed the current back down until the bubbles basically stopped. Then I restarted the pump. I ended up between .22 and .25 A per square in.

I have been working on cleaning the SU's. I would like to get it running if possible. I am not planning on keeping this car, just get it far enough along that it gets saved. We'll see But I have a question. Where is this port supposed to connect inside the carb? I can't find the other end of the passage

Oh, cool. Looks like it might have been a ceramics kiln at one point

I have worked with my hands for decades and I find this to be true also. Did you have the exterior window sweep off? The frame on the bottom of the glass was the problem as I recall. You sort of have to man handle it to get it into the door.

Who's into ceramics?

The glass can be installed with the frame in place, but it can be challenging. As I recall you tip the front down into the door first at an angle then rotate the back down into the door

Very good work with the stud welder! I didn't mention, the stud welder can also be used to shrink if you leave the stud out, then cool with water. Make sure the inside isn't warped inward. I will have to look tomorrow. There may be a pad that is supposed to take up the space

If you change the color,nobody but you and those you tell will ever know. Paint it what you like. Also the hand throttle was probably not original to the car...

It looks like an RB engine.Don't know which one. Lots of good pictures in here http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/145044-two-rb30s-price-reduced.html

Are you sure it's an L head? Doesn't really look like it.

Thanks

I expect that's a challenge to cut a block end to end like that

Looks great!

Roughly what does this cost?

Gotta love PO's (previous owners)...

Yes, basically. It is possible it is a timing issue I probably need to check the vacuum advance and the centrifugal weights too. I don't know how we would watch timing in real time since it is such a sporadic issue

Thanks Jim! That is an excellent idea. I will look around, I should have more than one... If not I will let you know

Right now were running the stock 510 carb which I believe is a 2 barrel vacuum secondary carb with an accelerator pump So one throttle plate and pumping the gas adds fuel... It also has a glass sided float bowl so you can instantly see if the carb has fuel

I checked all the fuses and they all have power on both sides. Wiring diagram looks like power goes to the hazard switch first? So I guess I should start there, correct?

I considered the matchbox being the issue a awhile back, but one of the days it acted up the low was like 7d F. I can't imagine the box running hot then. was leaning towards a blockage in the carb float bowl or an ignition issue, but I have had a hard time coming up with test to isolate the problem. So we think we might come up with some more info. We the car acts up (which) seems very random it will loose power and he will try to feather the pedal to keep it running. It usually stalls. Then he restarts it. So the last couple of times it has done it. When it stalls I told him to just cut it off then restart it. Yesterday when he thought it was acting up he pulled over cut it off and restarted it immediately. Issue was gone... So that makes me suspect maybe a bad ignition switch or possibly a bad connection causing the loss of voltage at the coil or the matchbox. Thoughts? Ideas on a test to validate this?