Patcon

Cliff!!! I never knew that about you... ?

Find the other thread on dash light LED's. there is a lot of good info int it... @Captain Obvious

If the L24 is a stroker then the cankshaft will have a "V07" on one of the counter weights. Also the block normally has to be clearanced for the bid end rod bolts to clear. It probably won't be a 3.0 stroker unless they punched a big hole in it! I, like Zed head, don't know if you can punch an L24 that large. Most people start with L28 blocks to make stroker motors...

Don't mess with it, if there's no problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not gonna debate that! Bumpers are the last thing I think about when doing a car. They are really just pretty jewelry on these cars...

If it ain't broke, don't break it!!!

The SU's have a pretty high limit, so that's not my first thought. there are guys racing with them. My first thought is you have a restriction somewhere. If you're comfortable with rigging some kind of temporary fuel source and see if the problem goes away. I have rigged up systems with a 1 gallon fuel can. If it goes away, work your way towards the tank to id the problem. If it doesn't go away, then I would assume it's in the carbs, maybe the fuel level is set too low or the banjo filters are dirty. Some testing would really help to isolate it.

I don't remember what I paid but I don't think it was that much. Check Courtesy just for a point of reference. I guess one of my thoughts is the float needs a specific bouyancy to work properly. So I didn't want to try to engineer a work around...

Most chrome shops can straighten them properly

Depending on what you need for rockers. There is a member on here that makes some of the parts that are NLA. @disepyon you aught to read his build thread

I think you're probably not too far off. They may have thin spots there on the floats or raised areas there from rolling them. The float bowls have a series of raised ribs that run vertically to keep the floats centered. So they rub and bang against those ribs all the time. So they either wear a hole at these cracks or cause stress cracks along these vertical lines of the float

Maybe the float bowl level is too high? Then drips after shutoff until it reaches a certain level...

That's fabulous!

I heated them with a heat gun and they would shoot out a fine line of fuel, like a syringe. Heat and pee, heat and pee. I got one emptied out that way. I thought about soldering them up, but when I found the others were available, it was a no brainer. The new floats are solid and will never sink...

@rossiz A year or two ago you were talking about adding a rear wiper on you Z, did you ever do that? I found these and was wondering if they were the 280zx rear wiper that was needed... I found these the other day when I was cleaning up the shop.

@240260280

Fired up the plating bench again today. It's sort of hard to start and stop. Would probably be easier to just plate until everything is done. The starting and stopping can make it hard to get the setup working right again. I tried to plate this "grease catcher" today. It goes on the back side of the front hub, held on by the wheel studs. Got mixed results I had these dull spots. I ran the current up and down and couldn't get rid of it. I ran this all the way through yellow cad and dried it. The dull spots wouldn't take color. Then I bead blasted it again and replated it. I had to rotate it a good bit to get it all to plate. I still had a few dull areas that I polish with a scrubby pad before chromating. Here is the result I think part of the issue was my power supply was maxed out. I ran this basically at 10 amps and I think it could have been higher. I have found higher currents make my parts brighter. I plated some front grease caps at close to 6 amps and they fizzed the whole time, but they came out shiny and nice. You can see them in the earlier picture...

For reference these are the stock floats Pretty much every vertical line on the float was a small crack. So they fill up with fuel. Here is the replacement from Z therapy Pretty much the same price as Courtesy Nissan so I would encourage supporting the little guy who is so good to our community!

I also finished rebuilding the front fender I have been messing with for probably a year I disassembled the inner and outer fender so I could rebuild the inner fender and patch some holes in the outer fender. I reattached this bracket to the inner fender before sliding the inner into the outre fender. I spot welded the bottom and the inner top flange then I dollied the flange back down flat Hung it up and added some black. I shooting black under the whole car and in all the wheel wells

I have been tinkering with the upper steering column for a couple of weekends. Plate something, paint something, on and on until I could finally assemble it. The replacement U joint I bought needed some detailing to work. The shoulders on the new joint were wider and I couldn't get into the yoke. So I took a die grinder to it with a cut off wheel. It wasn't very pretty but really not visible when it's assembled A little paint and here is the result Re Reassembled the column. I know the bottom cap is not supposed to be cad plated but it does look nice this way

Ok so I have been working on the fuel tank and some suspension bolts to try to get the car back on the ground. Worked on fuel tanks for awhile. I may be repeating some of this as I forget what I have covered and not... ? Stripped the tank and treated with rust dissolver Ok, here is a test for you. Do you see a cherry tree or a puller posts??? I worked on the 280z tank for a while. It will probably have to be cut open to be made right. Some areas you just can't pull I used Caswell sealer on the 240z tank. It's a clear two part epoxy. Very tough! This is a puddle I peeled up out of the spray booth. It pulled the dirt and all off the poly floor... This is the finished 240 tank I am using Eastwood satin chassis black. I like the sheen and so far it has done well. We will see how it holds up

I would think 3-4 psi should be good

Outside seam to outside seam is 51 9/16" or 1310mm Center to center on the front shock towers is 35 7/16" or 900 mm It looks like the FSM has 913 for this dimension. Will be interesting to see if my hood and fenders fit correctly when I set it off the rotisserie??? That's a pretty big "bust"!

Yes I will try to get a center to center on the front shock towers. I measured inside to inside on the pinch welds. I will get an outside to outside and see if that is more in spec. It would make sense they would work on outside dimensions and leave the error for the inside. There are a number of metal layers there so the flange is fairly thick

Ok, so I went and measured the car in the shop. The pinch welds on the bottom of the rocker panels appear to be parallel. It's a little hard to measure the front because the floor supports interfere with a straight measurement. The rear was easy and measures out at 51 1/4". The under floor pan frame rails are close to 30" outside to outside but get a little wider near the front of the floor board. I wonder if that is because there are more layers of metal there. For center line in the rear there seems to be a list of good candidates. Center of mustache bar bolts, center of control arm bolts, etc. All of these seem to be centered off of the wheel wells. The front is more difficult. I agree that everything forward of the firewall is suspect. I ended up concluding that the center of the hood latch bracket is a good candidate for a center line. It seems to measure very close to center from the top of the fender supports. If the hood latch is not centered anymore then you probably have bigger problems. Not much else there to work with...