Patcon

That was always my theory too. Clearance issue or rattle issue

Sorry wasn't paying that close of attention today

They sell body shim kits at Harbor freight. Cheap kits but useful none the less...

Excellent progress, be safe...

find the thread "waking the beast" or something like that. Lot's of good tips

These blocks are quite durable and a number have been opened thousands of miles later and still show evidence of the cross hatching

I am thinking more along the lines of "E" earth / "P" park / "F" fast Don't know what the others are right off the top of my head...

On the bolt, what is the size and thread? I might match it that way. Order what you know you need in an 8.8 or stronger...

Those little shims can be hard to source. As well as the hinge boots. I found mine on Ebay several years ago for reasonable money... These are the kinds of parts that are great to strip off of junk yard dogs. NLA and hard to find...

Sometimes there are shims behind the hinges. I haven't ever seen them between the hatch and the hinge, but I have seen them between the hinges and the body. If the panels don't sit right they could be used in in either location.

A serpentine belt damper is interesting too and opens up a lot of other options

Glad I could help...

Have you talked to an auto paint supply house yet? I would start there with their color books

Did they gig you on taxes on all of that? I hope not...

By rubbers do you mean the bushings that support the car or the rubbers seals from your first picture? In any case they are not the same front and rear. Since you're in Germany your best bet is to search for the part number I posted and see which one is cheapest with shipping and VAT included...

Don't let anything get crushed that is valuable. Is there a bumper end for Jai on that car?

I believe it's #69 on the rear suspension page 55542-E4100 Available directly from Nissan $2.25 each. They are rubber flat washers that go under the metal washer and locknut to seal water out of the spindle pins. There are also control arm bushings further under there that are also available new from Nissan

Try a small spot with a "magic eraser", just remember it is a polishing compound. Look for differences in sheen or finish before and after

I am sure he will still find enough problems in the immediate future!!! I just wouldn't want to chase my tail on ECU or harness problems. There will still be issues but more of the type we routinely discuss here. Not the kind that are rare and hard to find someone else experienced in. I have so many problems day to day I can't imagine getting bored with out some. I am open for trying some of that boredom...

It is unfortunate they aren't closer to the original stamping, but we probably aught to be glad we have any new stampings at all. It is quite expensive to make dies and I am quite positive there is no room in the market for two vendors making these parts. On a separate note, I wonder with variations in manufacturing if there are any cars that these fit correctly right out of the box?

My question is how many judges can tell the difference between early and late model flat tops??? There's Bruce and Jim, any others?

I agree with this 100%. In your shoes I would do this before I pulled the engine and swapped it. You would have the ECU, the wiring and the harness complete. It greatly reduces the places you could have issues. If the car ran good before, you would hope the hill wouldn't be that steep with this kind of a leg up!

Cliff, From the looks of the down pipe and such I would say it's a complete engine. If I could make the turbo engine I would. Get it running then intercool, then add some boost

Megasquirt normally runs based on a throttle body, TPS and a MAP sensor, like a modern car. The AFM controls fuel based on airflow and rpm off a programed fuel map. Relatively archaic. Megasquirt won't use it

If it was me I would get it running with the L28ET. Madcaw here runs Megasquirt but there are more guys running it at hybridZ. Just be careful over there because they will flame you in a heartbeat. I would get it running and sort the brakes and electrical. In the meantime I would try to source doors and front fenders. The frame rails are gonna need some work and the quarter panel at the gas door is a real issue. The doors and fenders could probably be saved but if I could source some good ones, I wouldn't try.