Patcon

The best way to tell the difference is the bottom line of the frame. The small bracket is sort of rounded with two convex humps. The large frame is straighter with a concave indention. I have the smaller frames. I didn't know there was an option Good to know Chickenman! I agree the Ford rear disc upgrade is pretty nice because they are so readily available and have a good selection of pads to choose from.

Is this correct? I haven't heard of this. Your existing bushing looks like a bushing that has had the rubber core removed and cleaned up. Most of the time these have poly bushings installed in them. If you want to use the new bushing you will need to remove the old bushing shell from the bar. Press the new bushing in and flare the edges. I know someone that has flaring dies but I am not sure they are available for use internationally. You would need a hydraulic press to flare the ends. You might be able to get some dimensions for how to make the dies and have some made locally for the same amount of money for the shipping and import duties. On flipping the bar, I don't know

Many times the water is from bad door seals, cowl drain tubes cracked or mis-installed or rust in the cowl area. Especially around the fresh air vent stack. Normally rust from the plug holes themselves eats the holes larger and the plugs fall out

I remember that now. I think Jim is understanding what I was referring to. You can see what looks like 3/4 of a seal coming out between the control arm face and the strut tube. Yeah, I didn't see anything on the diagram.

I don't know about using those on a car but they would be perfect on my invisible fence...

So worked on the brakes some more today I received the disc from Rockauto StopTech disc Centric 12742011 L&R this is a 240z disc that I am using with toyota 4 piston calipers Centric 12742016 L&R this is the 280zx rear disc used with the maxima caliper I had to recoat my rear calipers. I had used caliper paint on these a fear yeas ago and this is what happened So I stripped them down in the bead blaster and plated the hardware and repainted them. We will see if it last. If it doesn't I will zinc them or have them zinced by a vendor. This is the pads I have for the rear Here are the rears now I may end up reversing the brake line bracket on top of the hub and run a hard line from there to the caliper but I am trying to get a custom SS line made up. The custom line would run from the chassis bracket straight to the caliper. I have a tip from Fedhill on a source. We will see how that goes. I contacted MSA about just buying their rear lines from the kit but they want $58 for each side just for the lines I have metal masters for the front. It appears that Axxis has been bought or merged with PBR. They don't offer a track ready pad for the 240z but they do for the Maxima rear caliper. That seems odd? Here is a front caliper installed now that I have the right disc I used the short "S" lines I made on the front and twisted them 90d and they seem to work good. I have to find some shorter grade 8 bolts for the calipers. The ones I have are too long but are good place holders for now

Is there a seal that goes between the strut and the control arm on each side to seal that area of the spindle pin? It looks like Jalex has the remnants of a seal showing but I didn't see anything on the carpartsmanual diagram

That's a lot of money for a project z. He can pick up a complete drive train for $1000 or less. So paint and a drive train and you have a car, but the floor boards will need work. I think when they get cleaned up there will be holes in them. Also the tire well may have holes in it. I can't tell if that is jute or not on the left side. Frame rails, battery area and doglegs, who knows? For Florida though this may be a really clean shell. so that may explain the bidding

The top half of that car looks pretty good. The bottom half not so much! 30 or so pictures and no floor board, frame rail or battery pics?????? I mean I realize they might be gone but it would be nice to see them. It is a fairly low number car, but it would have to have limited rust in some of the problem areas for me to consider it a possible project.

I would say those are all excellent numbers

Those are cool!!!

Did you check on Earl's performance site? Summit Racing or Jegs?

It is an asphalt based sound mat. Sometimes it will just chip out. Others have used a heat gun and chip it out, but some have had really good results with dry ice, then chipping it out.

Yes, I believe that is correct. I wonder what the polishing grit is in professional paint buffing compounds?

Ahhh, the "metal shavings master"

There is a specific material that glass shops use to polish glass, but the name escapes me right now. I have used polishing compound on my son's Datsun on a 7" VS buffer. Every door we do, we polish the window before reassembly. It is not a cure all. It does help but on deep scratches what tends to happen is the scratch just gets polished up, not polished out. So it's ends up as a groove with polished sides. better but not perfect, but for general dullness from years of going up and down against grimey window felts it works good

It looks good. Are you planning on sanding and buffing eventually?

How tall are you? I am 6'5" and have never found it to be a problem fitting into an early Z. Now my wife's 350z is a different story... I have a set of black BMW vader seats I am going to try to fit into a 240, maybe later this year

Working on Cody's goon. Trying to get it Hwy ready. Also working on momma's 350z to get new cats on it and a re-engineered clutch pedal. I am going to borrow it from her for the week. Look ma no hands!!! ?

Do you know any of them? I would hate to see goods parts end up as soup cans.

I like leather. If I can ever do it, I will go with leather. I wouldn't think it would affect the value except on a true survivor type car. Just keep the old covers...

This is correct. I found some that I believe are 3/32. I had to buy a box of 50 but I matched them to the existing ones before drilling them out.

Anyone else close who can go get it? Cylinder head, fuel tank, steering column, hood, rear panels. Lots of good parts. I would be there in a minute if it wasn't 3000 miles away. I would drive 3 hours each way to get a car like that. Title in hand!

@Mark Maras @Zed Head

That's no good. Be safe...