Patcon

Thanks John for the reply You had a number of entries in many of the threads I read through last night. This is going to be a street car and will probably not be driving that aggressively. I have the Tokico combo set that showed some issues with the progressive front springs. We will see how they do when I set the car down. I may end up having to go back with Eibachs. Even so it is still relatively soft sprung. So it seemed like the proper thing to run the bar set. I am leaning towards the ST bar setup as it seems very well thought out and complete. I may space the bar out towards the rear like I believe John Coffey recommended to prevent binding. I wish I had done some discreet reinforcing upfront earlier, but I don't want to take the two steps back right now. I know tearing the mounts out can be an issue. How else does the damage show up on the front frame rails? Never mind I found that on your site for the sway bar plates. Separation from the frame rails to the inner fender... The most extreme driving I expect to see with this car is twisties in the NC mountains or events at Zconn. However I don't expect to be testing the limits. I have too many hours in the car to risk wrinkling it all up

Do you have both front and rear bars? Does the rear bar mount through the floor?

Kats, Here is a thread where Jerry worked on a bottle. As your part is probably very rare, I would proceed with caution...

The OEM aluminum ones are being reproduced so no reason to buy the iron ones if you don't want. To polish the aluminum ones you will have to sand them A LOT! Start with something course and finish at 600-800 grit. When they are pretty smooth switch to a buffer. You will need 2 different wheels and 2 compounds ( I don't remember off the top of my head). You might want to try to find a shop and see what they would charge to polish them. It will take some effort to get them looking good unless you have done some buffing.

I am close to filling up the brake system with fluid. So I have been doing a lot of research. I have been using some synthetic Dot 3/4 stuff in all my other vehicles. What is everyone using for fluid? I have pretty much already ruled out Silicone fluid because of the poor pedal feel. I did find the Motul RBF600 which I find really interesting. Really high dry and wet temps. It is expensive, but I am not opposed to that if the benefits justify the expense.

I have done a few hours of reading on here and some at HybridZ on sway bars. I am looking at ordering a sway bar kit. I always felt like the stock setup rolled too much. There are a number of people with kits listed, but It seems there are like basically 3 choices: The ST kit with the rear bar behind the differential and custom "Transverse brace plates" $320-356 The FutoFab orange bars with the rear bar behind the differential $450 but the rear bar is back ordered The MSA kit which looks to have the rear bar forward of the diff and the floor has to be drilled $220 How many of you are running front and rear bars? Any complaints? Which kit are you running? Are any of you having frame problems up front? This is probably my most significant question. I don'e really want to do any welding up front since I have all that area finish painted.

I think that is the way I found the Amazon part!

If you don't seat the inner grease seal in far enough it will bind when you torque it down. I also hit mine a couple of times to make sure I had it seated and it was resistant to spinning. They are both good now...

Are they aluminum?

I totally understand. It takes two years to get to anything on my list and I am 6 years in on my restoration.

I am locked out of my Amazon account currently so I can't totally confirm this, but I believe this is the one I bought. Judging by the one review https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Master-Universal-Joint-ATV700/dp/B000GZRASO

Also the metal tabs from the floor have a clip that holds them down

Two 2 - 1/4" pipes (7.96 squ in) is even larger than a single 3" (7.08 squ in). Even the two 2 -1/8" (7.10 squ in) is even larger. I found this on another forum: "As an owner of a 3.2L Rebello engine I would recommend what Dave uses on his dyno (and what I have on my 240), a Sebring Tuning muffler and either a 2.5 or 3-inch custom bent exhaust pipe." That's a 3.2L. A good bit bigger than what you're building and a $3000+ Rebello head that breathes really well. BTW those kind of heads are really not a do it yourself kind of thing...

3" exhaust seems excessive. A turbo build might be different, but on an NA motor larger exhaust isn't always better

I used the Kawasaki u joint Posts #76 and an issue with the joint in #176

Thanks Damon! I may PM you if I need some help, so we could work out a plan. Thanks, Charles @Mark Maras Thanks, Mark

I have to tuck my tail bone in every chair or car I have ever been in, so I guess that is my default position. I also like to recline pretty good when I drive so that helps keep my head off the ceiling. ?

It would be nice if you made a thread for this conversion when it happens. It might help some of us that may end up needing some additional back brakes or have issue with the maxima conversion. A pictorial thread would be especially nice.

I have located a bumper for Cody's car just outside Eugene but the seller doesn't want to ship. If anyone could help me out and get the bumper and ship it to me, I would cover the shipping and try to compensate for the time it takes. I am pulling stuff together for his 18th birthday presents later this month. Thanks, Charles

I shot lizard skin heat shield on the inside of the roof skin and pretty much all of the floor area and fire wall. Then I shot sound deadener over all that and the inside of the doors, quarters and spare tire well. I shot under-coater over the entire bottom side of the car up to the entrance to the tunnel, where I switched to the engine bay paint. I also shot under coater on the inside of the fenders and all the wheel wells got it when I did the under side of the car. All of he under coater was shot over epoxy primer. You can probably tell how I did my build thread.

They are a thin rubber tube, like a radiator hose but thinner and no cording. They can dry rot and crack or come loose from the drain neck

I am working on sourcing some custom lines for my conversion

I would say no. Leave it alone and enjoy driving your tuned Z!

THAT SUCKS! I hope it helps! Go ahead and get some bullseye type mirrors to spread around the car as your looking over your shoulder will be diminished.

I don't know what it would take to mail you some screws but I have a set that has the little screws in it. I am sure I have 4 extra...