Patcon

Yeah, those import duties into Canada are crazy!

@SteveJ What is the status of the the mountain drive? Is there any associated cost?

flapper bit on an extension

If I remember right, there are four hard lines in the tunnel: fuel supply fuel return rear brakes vapor line You will need to trace them to figure out which of the hard lines is for the vapor

Yeah, that's the vapor tank. Look at the original vapor tank plumbing and see what has been changed. That should make it clearer where that line came from. Fuel vapor is much more dangerous than liquid fuel and it's heavier than air. So it can collect in low areas and be set off by an ignition source.

I would not be surprised if really low number pristine cars were trading close or in that six figure range. It's only a matter of when not if.

What will you do about the mirror plating?

Wont be Monday. We'll figure something out

Are you coming to Atlanta? Zconn is almost in our back yard!

I thought I might get you to help with a headlight project while we were in Atlanta

Reservoir or vapor tank?

I am up to go look for Bambi's big brother...?

What are you doing up or have you been up all night?

We hope...

I have an app on my phone "speed cast" I believe that will give GPS speeds and acceleration numbers

That looks pretty good

What a mess! Even as a parts car, many of the parts will be unusable due to rust. I doubt there is a good piece of sheet metal on the whole car.

Will be interesting to see how high that goes. 10k with 3 days to go. Does it make $40k? Needs some cosmetics but supposedly minimal rust. Would bring more if it was the original color, especially if it was original paint.

If the check valves move and seal then the pump should work. They can have a difficult time pumping air to prime themselves though. I like to prime the engine to get it to fire over which helps prime the pump

That's a nice clean looking Z for a decent price. I would expect minimal rust on a car like that from the South West but I would still want some pics first.

Yes, or you can smear a coat of tiger hair fiberglass to seal the pinholes and smooth it up, don't use bondo. As long as the welds are solid and look good, you should be fine. Weld in short little sections and take lots of time between sets, to reduce warpage. You should consider a good respirator for under your welding hood. Some of that stuff isn't good for you when it burns!

That's true for what I know of it. I just browse through every so often. I know what's new and what's old

Grannyknot has good advise, but I would suggest butt welding them in. If you have a good gas shielded welder (plenty of Duty Cycle), half the battle is getting it set up properly. You will have it figured out long before you get part way around a panel. If you practice a little first, I think you'll be ok. You can always post some pictures of your first spot welds and we can help you get dialed in.

Maybe as a race car. Easy to repair and no original sheet metal to bend. Just order more panels when you find yourself sitting a pile of splinters?

Yes, look at the check valves. They can stick closed or open and can get gunk in them, holding them open.