Patcon

Are you looking for a 4 speed knob? I can look around some for you...

I think wheee! found some. Look in his build thread. I have no idea what page it might be on....

Be careful. I have never dealt with racetep, but I have seen very mixed reviews...

I have found that raw aluminum doesn't stay pretty very long for me without a coating. i am not near the coast but we have very high humidity. It will be interesting to see how yours holds up.

What are you using as protectant after getting your aluminum clean?

That's an interesting idea...might have to dig around a little. Of course I don't have a donor to take shavings from

Cody and I are in...

The studs had to have been plated some how. Plated first, then installed? Or maybe just plate the outside of the shell? How are they affixed? I need to see if I have a survivor and paint strip it to see what it looks like...

The older that dog gets the more you two look alike!!!

I worked on the pedal box some today too. The backside of the pedal box has what looks like weatherstrip adhesive on it. Does it just glue to the firewall? Is it supposed to have a gasket? This seal is for the steering shaft. I plan on gluing both sides of this too on re-installation. Is this seal available anywhere?

I also recut the quarter. I mic'd a shim until I found one the right size to make an even door seam You can see how much extra there is. Close to an 1/8" This is 4 or 5 passes. I would tack then go do something else for 30 minutes or so Some more, then knocked down. I have some pin holes to tack up. I ordered a flexible file to finish fairing it...

Started on the front turn signals The plastic is quite soft on these. We bead blasted them to get over spray off of them. It fuzzed them a little. Knocked them down with 400 a little semi gloss white Looks pretty good. I need to source the little screws that hold the lens on. There are two sizes and look like they might be stainless. they are really fine! Also I had this one that is cracked. I am going to try to plastic weld this one, but have to get the welder back from a friend We'll see. I have no idea what type of plastic this is...

So a little fiberglass to fill the rust divots A little high build primer Sand to 400 grit Then a little glazing putty Then some Eastwood semi-gloss I was going to try to plate the studs but my plating tank heater is dead. So maybe next weekend... Interesting that no one chimed in on whether the boosters were yellow zinc under the black??

I would start with the heat shield and heat issues before I looked at the float levels

My first thought would be to check float levels

Yup, they use copper for adhesion and they can also use it as a filler to make a bumper look really sharp. They plate it, then file and shape it, and then plate some more until they get it just shaped. Then they chrome it. It's a neat process

Are you expecting any advantages from polishing the valves in this manner?

Yes, no rubber hammer needed and no sealant should be needed either...

How did you accomplish that?

That was my first thought.

There was a guy on you tube that ran a filter full time on his bath. He had a decent sized pump under his bench and like a 10 gallon tank. I tried to ask him on you tube, what kind of filter he was running. I assume is was a particulate filter, but I don't know what micron. I wouldn't run the charcoal filter full time. It would be nice to run a different pump setup. Caswell sells a little giant chemical pump, but I think it's overkill for my little tank and it's expensive. Maybe one day... For now, I will finish cleaning the tank. There is a little bit of debris in the bottom of the tank and I will filter that out through coffee filters. Then I will try to plate something. We'll see how it goes. It will be interesting to see if I can get a bright zinc plate without adding brightener. Might try it this coming weekend if it doesn't monsoon again...

Zed head is correct. The O ring is between the distributor and the metal plate with the markings. Make sure you put it back with the pointer in the same place on the markings. That way your timing will be the same. The pedestal is the aluminum part at the bottom of the distributor that is held in with the two 10mm bolts. The paper gasket goes under there

Evidently, according to some very knowledgeable people the forward mounted bar can bind. Where the rear mounted bar won't

In this picture you can see all 3 of the 4 bolts that can be removed to remove the distributor. There are the two 10mm in the bottom aluminum piece. One you can see, one on the reverse side you can't see. There is the single bolt I believe 8mm that threads upward through the plate with the degree markings on it. The last bolt is on the rear side of the distributor. 10 mm and threads down, sometimes it will have a nut on the bottom if it's been stripped. The bottom aluminum part can be removed and reinstalled with out affecting the timing. The other two bolts hold the distributor from moving and changing the timing. What do the seals look like?

I was not trying to be insulting but Jalex's mechanic support is pretty non existent it seems. So I would hate to see him break it when he seems to finally have it running well.