Patcon

The manifold I just took apart had a different fitting at location #20 but I don't think it would be a problem to use that same Zcardepot part in all three locations. The part I had was a straight tube, threaded on one end with two notches on the other end like a straight head screw would have. I was planning to use the same nipple in all three locations. That was my plan at least.

So I debated trying this or not. I'm glad I did though So the water tubes in the intake manifolds have been there for 50 years; steel in aluminum. They are 19mm (3/4") I don't have a flare nut wrench that large. But I took the propane torch to it and they came out! This is the end of the water tube. There is a rubber o ring that goes against a conical seat at the bottom of the hole. Then I used the induction heater to try to get the nuts off the pipe They came off which was great! That tool is really impressive in what you can get apart. Then I bead blasted these parts I'm glad that I did because the tube has a pin hole. I believe this would leak because the seal is a the bottom of the nut at the seat. This pinhole would be inside the nut. So I found a piece of tubing. I couldn't find anything on Amazon but I found some 10mm OD 8mm ID tubing on Ebay. So I have 20" of that coming. I will try to replate all of this in the next few weeks I pulled the studs out of the manifolds too. And this is what I had I degreased then and put them into the bead blasting cabinet. After the first pass, I turned the air pressure down to about 60psi and blasted them again. This is how they came out. I'm really pleased they look this good! Then I treated them with Sharkhide. Before and after

Dooohhh! The info is good though

That's a good looking little car!

Harmons brakes might be able to source one or one close that could be modified. Yours looks much better than the one I reused

Cool!! I was assuming you weren't shipping the chassis back to San Diego but I knew that shop did really good work. It can be difficult to replace that kind of talent. Shawn looks very capable! It aught to be a beautiful car...

Who's going to do the body work?

I got into the shop one night this week. Worked on the clutch master, speedo cable and the hood release. I plated some parts last weekend for these items Here is the finished hood release When I took the end off the speedo cable, that allowed me to remove the spring and replate it Then I added heat shrink to the end where the jacket was missing and restaked it Then added a piece on the outside that is self sealing heat shrink All of the aluminum ends were bead blasted at really low pressure to clean them up. I did not put the cable jacket in the bead blaster though. You would never get it cleaned out! Finished cable

I wonder what that will bring? I have absolutely no idea what that's worth...

Any special techniques? Heat?

That's great! Well done

1986-88 I believe

Thanks for the help guys!

What fastener goes here at the rear of the fender in the door jamb? A big headed pan screw or a bolt?

I also got the header into the engine bay yesterday. It will go in but it's a snug fit!

I have. SteveJ also found me links for the calipers at Summit or Jeg's I think. Having tried to order these at O'reilly's I would be surprised if they can actually get them. I think if I were going to stay with the Maxima calipers I would take a shot at rebuilding them, but there are about 15 pieces inside the caliper. So lots of places for causing dragging

The clutch master appeared to be adjusted correctly, so I pulled it off. I tore it down and it was evidently one I had that I rebuilt. The little piston that allows neutral fluid flow at rest was seized up in the larger piston. It was also full of grease from when I forced it apart! So no fluid flow there... So a little bead blasting and all good But since no good deed goes unpunished, I ripped one of the seals trying to reinstall it. So I found another slave cylinder I had and got one out of there. I'll get that back on the car this week hopefully and get the clutch working...

Worked in the shop some yesterday Found the hood release cable and the speedo cable and started reworking them. Plated a few things today for these parts Cut the end back on the speedo cable. The jacket was already cracked here and pulled off with the aluminum end I need to find the part number for this seal

Any update? The 403 error is irritating...

@siteunseen Cliff do you know the part number for the rubber seals at the bottom end of the speedo cable?

I would still be open to others opinions

That is a great site!!! I will try to get in touch with them. C

It's unfortunate that internet searches don't bring some of these options up. I assume because it has a ".CO" domain it doesn't come up in my searches. It's not like we can't ship anything worldwide in a few days!!!

I had another quandary and wanted some opinions: Option #1: I currently have Maxima rear brake calipers on the rear with disc rotors (unknown make and year). The calipers need rebuilding and I have the kits. If I were going to keep them, I would have them powder coated first. About $50 -$70 each. I will also need to adjust the parking brake location some for clearance issues. The main concern being that I rebuild them and they still don't operate properly. Which means I spent money to make them pretty but they're useless... Option #2: Go with the 240sx caliper which appears to have a better parking brake geometry and increased availability. But I will at a minimum need pads, brackets, parking brake brackets, possibly an Ebrake cable and possibly rotors. I would also have to cut my maxima adapter plates off the rear hub. The design I have is an older design and requires removing the stub axle for install. That's not happening again! $300-400 with no suprises Option #3: Go with a Wilwood dual caliper rear brake system and eventually upgrade the fronts to Wilwoods. $1400 just for the rears. Which is a tough thing right now with 3 kids in college... Thoughts?

I loosened these up and the cylinder is very neutral. I have a little too much slop in the linkage due to clevis wear, but fine for now. But the just is the linkage isn't causing my no bleed issue