Patcon

The glass is easily swapped

I wouldn't even try to adjust the window tracking without the frame installed

Sorry about that. Oh well, move forward...

I'm unsure. Its a shame you don't have backs too because that would probably make them pretty valuable.

Looks great!

Asking the question different ways isn't going to change my answer... There are 2 positions where the motor is at TDC in a cycle! You need the position where the two cam lobes on the first cylinder are pointing upwards and not pushing on the valves. The timing pointer on the crankshaft pulley should be pointing to the first mark on the the pulley. With all the spark plugs out you should be able to rotate the engine with a ratchet. You can verify the piston is all the way up by looking in the spark plug hole or using a screwdriver to feel the top of the piston. The dizzy should be pointing at the #1 spark plug in the dizzy cap. Remove the dizzy and replace with the new one...

links to the rivets you bought and tools?

To do it right you will at a minimum have to reset the timing with a timing light. This is not a hard job mechanically but if you try to take shortcuts don't expect good results...

There are 2 positions where the motor is at TDC in a cycle! You need the position where the two cam lobes on the first cylinder are pointing upwards and not pushing on the valves. The timing pointer on the crankshaft pulley should be pointing to the first mark on the the pulley. With all the spark plugs out you should be able to rotate the engine with a ratchet. You can verify the piston is all the way up by looking in the spark plug hole or using a screwdriver to feel the top of the piston. The dizzy should be pointing at the #1 spark plug in the dizzy cap. Remove the dizzy and replace with the new one...

Replacing the distributor is not hard but it will be easier if the motor is at TDC on the compression stroke. Note where the old rotor is pointing and install the new dizzy pointing the same way. Fire it up and set the timing...

Yes, that should work. I don't believe you will need the pertronix with that distributor. Which is a good thing IMO

You have messed with everything but the major components of the ignition system. I would swap it out before I tore the engine down.

@Captain Obvious

It's cheaper to try a new ignition system!

But it runs!!!! Congratulations!

I'm so glad they were able to help. They're nice people

I wonder if it will rev with starting fluid? If it will, then that suggest a fuel problem. If it won't that suggest ignition

Will it rev just idling in the garage?

I dont see much demand for L24's in the US. I would probably strip it. Sell the head and accessories separately. Keep the odds and ends and scrap the block

We also have a pretty good driveline shop in spartanburg. I'm am planning on taking them a driveshaft soon

Who will you get to build it?

Yeah it is!!!

Yes the Shiro VSLD's had finned covers too.

So 22" above grade. Outlet ends up about 16-18" up. So I might have to get on all fours to plug something in. I was hoping outlet height would be 28-30 for easier access

So 30" above grade? Or is a significant portion buried?