Patcon

After cutting the switch off, mine reverses and runs one more cycle to park the blades. If yours runs more than that I would think the issue is in the little relay box mounted to the wiper motor

What's the possibility I could make these in a reasonable amount of time??

So I have been looking for the key hole shutter springs. They are the tiny springs Here are the dimensions I have found something close but they are almost $9 apiece!! Anyone have any ideas on where to find these?

Technically yes. Car on the ground. Roll it back and forth a few times to let the suspension settle. Throw 150#s of olympic weights in the drivers seat and torque it down. The center section of the bushing is metal and bonded really well with rubber to the metal outer shell! When it gets torqued down it can't rotate freely anymore. The only rotation is the rubber flexing. So if you trap it in a position where the car sits higher, then the range of motion from the rubber bushing is higher overall (ie the car will sit higher)

So I worked on the wiper motor yesterday. Probably something else I should have been working on but I didn't feel like it. I finally received this PVC tubing the other day. I bought it for the front markers lights but realized I needed a piece for the wiper motor too. It has white script down the length of it. A quick wipe with lacquer thinner and it's all gone. I can't upload the pictuer I want, but I the plug on the wiper was bad and instead of depinning it, I crushed it with a set of channel locks. Much faster! I replaced the pins on the end of the wiring. Put a new jacket on the cable and reinstalled the wiper motor and bracket into the car using Steve Nixon's great little rubber pieces I took a guess at which way to install the wiper arm. Which is tough to get on with everything in the way. Once it was in the car and bolted down, I added tape on the wiper pivots to simulate arms. I then used my DP switch test rig and added the jump box to verify the arm operation. They operate as they should up instead of down!! One job off the list Also which one of these six holes get a round head screw instead of a hex nut? Is it the top one on the drivers side? It seems like it would the closest to interfering with the cowl

So I worked on a door lock a few days ago. The covers are tough to get off. I have the proper pliers and that gets the lip started but getting it up the rest of the way is tough. It appears the lock bodies were yellow zinc when new. The lock codes on these bodies I suspect the letter prefix determines whether it's a VOSS ket or an X6/X7 key The clip is removed off the back of the body here Cylinder just pushed out to the front Face cap has the staked places on two sides. I drove a small flat head in there to open them up enough to get off Key shutter and spring. This spring is tiny!!! @Captain Obvious Thoughts on using JB weld to fix the grooving in this lock body? I am assuming that none of those marks to either side of the main groove are supposed to be there?

The fit is snug but it will go in. Be mindful there is a front and back side to the bushing. Also the bushings need to be torqued with load on the car! If you do it with the car unloaded the car will sit higher.

Thanks so much! That's exactly what I needed!!

Page 4 Not too far in, page #4...besides there's lot's of interesting info in those pages.

I can't image that the intake track is going to create much more vacuum than that. Disappointing the valve doesn't close under those vacuum conditions. Maybe shoot some PB blaster into it while under vacuum? If you can see the spring try to pry it gently to see if you can get it unstuck? On second look, there is a spring under the valve (the 4 little circles). So the default position is "failed close". Intake vacuum creates low pressure on the under side of the diaphragm pulling it down and opening the valve. So it shouldn't pass air with no vacuum. Use a flashlight and look through the valve and see if you can determine the valve position

Yes, that sounds right. Do you have a way to apply vacuum to the little port?

Does the 70 car have a different antenna switch than this?

I believe they are still available new from Nissan. I'm sure I have the part number in my build thread but no idea what page it's on or how to search just one thread...

They do wear out. Mainly in the center where most of the driving is done. They can be adjusted but the results are unpredictable. It would have to be very worn for me to want to replace it

I know of no way to confirm bad valve seals. They get hard and fail to seal. Difficult to diagnose with them installed. I have never experimented with additives and think that's not a good idea except in emergencies

You will remove the heater controls or the back of the glovebox. Don't worry about tomorrow, today has enough worries of it's own! Deal with it if it happens...

Never mind I found it in your build thread

@inline6 Garrett, I don't remember, did you end up rekeying all your locks? Charles

Normally stack height is determined by which collar you have. There's like 5 options and having the right one makes all the difference. Sometimes people stack a wasker or too under the pivot to help. The pivot threads need to be sealed though. They are exposed to fluid on the backside.

That's good. You came up with a solution. Good for you!

I am getting close to being ready for tires. I have been looking at several options: 1. Kuhmo Ecsta PS31 215/55 R16 about $136 2. Continental Extreme contact DWS06 Plus 215/55 R16 about $151 3. Toyo R1R 225/50 R16 $181 (not available in the 215) As the title says, I am going to be running Rota RB's 16x7 with a +4 offset I am running Eibachs and am planning on an airdam up front. So no stock valence. I was thinking the 215's aught to clear the rear wheel arches. I really like the Toyo's but I am not sure they will clear and I don't want to deal with scrubbing right now. I might roll the fenders eventually but no time for it now. Questions: Is anyone running the 215 on a similar setup? Does it clear? Is the +4 enough to get the 225's to clear in the rear? Any preference for which of these 3 people like and why? Thanks, C I did read some other threads but they were for other wheels and I decided to not muddy up those threads

Yes, they do!

Thanks, the LEDs I have are Amber or Red to match the lens color at that location because I have been told the same thing

So I tore into one of the rear calipers today. They don't look good and I don't know how to get them apart. I'm also concerned if I get them apart I won't be able to get them back together. I'm going to see if O'Reillys can get me a pair. Here is a marker light after I used some silicone to reassemble them. I just left the squeeze out. It scrapes right off with a fingernail after it's dry. Today we worked on putting the ugly engine into Lily I separated the transmission yesterday and made sure the pressure plate wasn't rusted to the flywheel. It was a little crusty but I cleaned it up and Cody helped me get it back on the engine. It has a Centerforce clutch in it from the 90's probably!! The next step is cleaning the Ztherapy SU's that have been sitting for a decade or so.''

Here is the wiper motor cover after some Meguiars So I've been chipping away at front turn signals Here is the factory bulb end Got the terminals out of the connector and cut the ends off. I have Vintage connections pieces to put it back together Here are the new screws I have for the lenses One lens together Here is one pigtail done I found a whole box of LED's in the BrownZ when we pirated it. I bought them from SuperBrightLED's in 2012!!