Patcon

My problem is I can't imagine that 7075 is tough enough to compare to a steel lugnut...

I think I would make some patches and move along

On the new to us 350z there are aluminum lug nuts. I really don't have great feelings about that. Does anyone out there have experience with aluminum lug nuts? Are they DOT approved? Are they safe? Thanks, C

Thank you

The oil in the carbs seems really heavy

I agree rockers and even front frame rails is serious surgery. The car needs to be properly supported. If the doglegs are solid I suspect the rockers are too. The rear section is normally the worst. Are there any holes inside the wheel wells near the doglegs? I would avoid taking the radiator support out. I would probably try to take the rear section with the ovals off and then use that access to treat the onterior. A home run would be to have someone fab you a replacement and weld it back in. I have seen much worse...

Are they planning on more? I may need a couple

Are they out of stock at JDM car parts?

I dodnt find any. I have one 240z front strut but didn't see the mate

I will try to look around tomorrow some

I might have a pair...

Odd to see a crack that way. The force is applied from the other side unless the lever was somehow install to the other side of the camshaft eccentric

What were the specs on your variable resistor?

Are your plugs black? An overly rich condition can do this

So how did you run it without the dash? I wouldn't have thought to try that

He does such a nice job. You can tell he has done a number of these cars

I agree. I miss the face to face catch up time!

Who all is planning on attending? I have had a room reservation for a long time but work is looking like it will interfere

So we sold mommas blue 350z a year or so ago when she got a company car. Yesterday we made a trade. I had this 2004 6.0 turbo diesel Lariat 2006 350z plum, automatic She looks really crushed, doesn't she???

So 8/ 10,000ths I can't think of what harm it would do to retorque, Steve Can you or anyone else?

can you register it?

I learned this from Kevin Tetz's videos. My understanding is that plastic body filler is not water proof. Moisture will actually migrate through it. Fiberglass in contrasts is very water proof. I have found this to be the case in my own work too. Several years ago I quit using bondo for rotten exterior door jamb repairs and began using fiberglass. the repairs seem to hold up much better over the long haul.

I would use a little fiberglass instead of plastic filler on the weld beads at the lower edge of the door. The fiberglass is much more water resistant than plastic filler

I use that tape technique to straighten lines. I use a pencil and mark the high points on the door, for example, then I use a 4' level and draw a straight line down the door in pencil, Then I tape one side of it and block it. Then switch to the other side and block it again. Spray high build or filler then repeat...

The automatic will limit the abuse transferred to the rear end