Patcon

The kits are expensive. Just call a windshield repair guy. That is your cheapest bet if your windshield isn't covered by insurance.

Steve The sensor is in the backing plate, but what triggers the sensor? Can you get some more pictures of the setup as it goes in. I like the idea of this type of trigger wheel.

If I remember correctly the water tubes are steel threaded into aluminum intakes. With water inside you get terrible galvanic corrosion making them hard to separate later...

Cork gaskets do not like to be over tightened. That is many times the reason for failure.

He was evidently 54. I hate to hear that and his knowledge will be missed. That is going to become a bigger and bigger problem as these great vendors get older.

I wouldn't replace it until I was sure it wasn't original. Jim's car has an E31 but it is 2000 units earlier. Start there...

www.240zrubberparts.com Have you checked his site. I believe it will be fairly up to date, knowing Steve...

I wouldn't think a clutch would be toast after 2500 km unless you were doing high rev launches over and over. That's like 1,500 miles even a sorry clutch aught to hold up longer than that. I think you are looking in the right area from the sounds of it.

I agree with Jim, also in the future instead of buying a new driveshaft. We have a local company that rebuilds shafts and balances them. It's a pretty common thing for heavier trucks and racecars. I am sure you have a similar service in your area. Cheaper than a new driveshaft. Like $60 for 2 u joints and a balance

I am no engine expert but I would think you would want zero leakage past the valves. If the intake or exhaust valves leak then you won't reach 9:1 compression or whatever as the build up in pressure will bleed back into the intake or exhaust manifold, whichever is leaking. The need to seal really well which is why valve lapping is sometimes necessary

I am surprised you didn't pull the shifter before removing the engine. It makes it easier to get the chunk out without damaging anything. I love the 6" trench drain. The metal grate is nice too. Looks good

Thanks Site I wonder if I have one of those lying around, I mean I wonder if I can find one of those I have lying around...

No "thread jacking" please...

Looks good. I love new parts. So clean... So shiny...

Site That's pretty glossy. Obviously glossier than the crossmember and dust shield. I will aim for the gloss finish I already have. That will prevent so much rework. Thanks Guys

Thanks Dan

Cliff, Is "gloss", really glossy or sort of glossy?

These parts I have are from a customer who restored 280z's he is older now and didn't have a use for them. So I have them now. If you need anything Steve drop me a PM or a note here in this thread. I will get it to you...

So he left the copper tubing in the pipe and that holds the form. Correct?

I am painting my suspension but I switched flattening agents and the new one makes it much flatter than the old one. I am trying to figure out which one is close to correct This is the early flattener I was using not very flat. Fairly glossy and looks nice This is the later flattener. Much flatter. almost no gloss Cross member is pretty flat too Table full of parts Can someone give me some direction on which finish is correct. The glossy one is the easiest but I'd like to shoot for the most correct finish.

Jai I wouldn't order anything Steve doesn't ask you to order. I have many of the parts he mentioned. Some are new, he is welcome to any of them for your car. unknown intake manifold with FPR new in box FPR unsure of application Unknown fuel pump

Did he heat form the hoses in the oven or something similar?

Thanks Steve

Where is the FPR located on a 280z?

Thanks JeffG