jfa.series1

FWIW - my engine (all of it) is original to the car. It has P30 block with a E31 head.

As always - your car, your choices. Consider this in electing to ditch the factory air filter box: - you'll be giving up the factory designed air horns in the air filter box; - as you've stated, you're also giving up the natural connections for the flow guide valve and the valve cover hose. - the new valve cover filter will eventually saturate with oil vapor and drip onto the manifolds, then you have to add an unsightly catch can. The factory air filter box may not look sexy but it does a darn good job of what it was designed for. if you change your mind and keep it, block off the lower middle opening that connected to the air pump with a 1" rubber chair leg boot from a big box store. Been there, done that. Just my thoughts that you requested. Jim

Lots of clues that it is a Series 1 car: sail panel, hatch, steering wheel. That would tend to rule out a 5/71 build date. Too bad he did not list the VIN he referred to.

What a beautiful and elegant award. Well done - you make the brand proud!

FWIW - I've got one of zclocks quartz converted units installed, purchased from MSA a few years ago. Great product and highly recommended.

Celebrating 47 years together today. It did not start out as a "forever car", it just worked out that way.

There is no "frame" for S30's (240Z/260Z/280Z) - they are unibody cars as stated earlier. If your front rails/fenders/etc. are shot your best bet is a replacement front clip from a donor 280Z.

I've been running this oil since the rebuild a few years ago. Also, its one of the few oils available with high zinc.

Getting ready for Spring with some fresh fluids installed today.

...and you would know that because...?

The Kia weatherstrip has a more flexible bulb than the PRP piece. Therefore it has more give when the door is closed. Also, it comes attached to the welting that covers the body seam around the door opening. Whether your buy the Kia product used (salvage yard) or new you'll get an easier door closing effort. Been there, done that!

Welcome to the group. Many of us followed your dad's posts before Christmas and we're very glad to meet you and your "new" ride. Speaking for myself and presumably others, I hope you'll make our forum a regular stopping point for your web surfing. This is probably the most helpful group you will come across. Enjoy the ride!

If you're thinking of doing some refurb and sale work, there's little on a 240Z that that won't have interest - in other words take everything you can lay your hands on. Work the car very hard! Here's a few examples of small stuff (be sure and get ALL the fasteners). Note - the rubber steering coupler is NLA, an uncracked one has re-sale value. Keep everything carefully zip bagged and tagged separately, don't throw it into a box and expect to remember what goes with what.

That's as far as I ever got with my old one - it was frozen solid, allowing NO fluid movement to the rear brakes. I was able to reach the core with long-nose pliers and pull it out to its stop point, release it, repeat several times - no improvement. I also soaked it in brake cleaner, no joy. A buddy gave me one from his parts car that works and is on the car now.

From the school of lessons learned, it is far easier to install the door window without the frame in place. Dropping in the frame after the window is in and settled in with the regulator is pretty straightforward. Also, by removing the frame you get to inspect all of the channel materials, replace as might be required. New ones make a world of difference in a snug fit for the glass.

Another welcome to the forum, lots of great help and resources here. On your profile, update your signature with your car's VIN and build date so that any tech questions will be more accurately answered. As Mark commented, we're all a bunch of voyeurs and we crave pics!

Be sure to compare the pressure plate in your new kit to the one coming out of the car. Specifically, measure the distance from the mounting surface to the "fingers" that engage with the throwout bearing. I ran into this issue years ago only AFTER I had it all back together and discovered the clutch would not operate correctly. Yes, the kit was correctly identified for my car - all stock and original tranny. The same situation occurred recently with a buddy doing a clutch job on his 260Z with a 280ZX 5-speed swap. He covered the question in advance with his supplier but the kit still had the same issue.

The initial post also mentions new struts - presumably that's new gas charged shocks. New shocks such as Tokico HP's now become an active part of the suspension, unlike the OE hydraulic shocks which were passive. A while back Carl Beck commented on this effect and noted he had measured as much as 60 lbs. of lift (if I recall correctly).

And now we better understand why most reputable tire stores don't want the customers in the shop area.

Hockey pucks! No... not an expletive but an answer. I have a set of four hockey pucks with a slot milled thru them to fit the body weld at the jack points. Useful for the floor jack, a lift, jack stands, ...etc. A cheap solution.

I have a theory on the item one question. Both parts catalogues are consistent in showing a rev date for the assembly and no rev dates for any of the component parts. My theory is that the change was in the method/sequence of the assembly and not in the parts. They assigned a new P/N to keep track of the change. Thoughts?

Got it - we're talking hardware, not software. Riddle me this: the assembly has a 7110 rev. date but none of the component parts. Interesting!

Re question 1: I use the online parts manual for most of my lookups, it shows a door panel assembly change at the '72 model introduction - 7207, items 11 & 12. I browsed around the various parts, found no references to 7110. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/door-moulding-finish-arm-rest On question 3, my car (12/70) is a two-key setup. Probably too early for your transition comment.

The video shows three attachment points - top left and right, bottom center. They eliminated the lower left and right points.

My tupence worth: I see the advice from the sheriff and the appraiser as sketchy at best - its not their skin in the game nor do they have the final say. The only opinion that counts is your state's DMV! In my state, all title application inspections are handled by the Highway Patrol officers. They have an extensive listing of all of the locations for permanent VIN stamps, including the factory secret locations. Those are the only VIN identifiers that count. If you plan to move forward on a driver and not a parts car, check with your DMV before acting on it.