Namerow

I've often seen pictures posted by CZCC members where their Z is perched up on axle stands, front and rear. Getting a car up on stands at either the front or the rear is easy. I'm curious to know what the accepted wisdom is for getting the other end elevated and then getting the stands extended to full lift. Can it be done safely in one step, or is it better to start with the axle stands at minimum extension and then go back and forth in steps from front to rear until both ends are up all the way (i.e. the axle stands at maximum extension)?

That would be a great addition. @Mike Within the 'Knowledge' tab, there seems to be no appropriate 'category' for Inline6's list. Perhaps we could benefit from an additional category called 'Hardware'. It could hold contributions dealing with fasteners, hoses, materials, finishes, chemicals, and the like. Maybe even an additional one, titled 'Tools'. Years ago, two other Z owners created similar 'S30 Fasteners' spreadsheets. However, neither was even close to yours in terms of whole-vehicle coverage. Both of the authors ran out of steam after listing about 20 items. One of them actually included photos of some of the more important items. Easy to see why he tired of the project fairly quickly!

The wiring pigtail for my 70 Z's antenna also consisted of just 2 power wires (i.e. no ground wire).

I think that the 'ground wire' consists of the braided wire shown in this photo of the disassembled antenna assembly from my 1970 Z . The larger, toothed washer gets clamped between the assembly casing and the inside of the fender, while (IIRC) the smaller, smooth washer slips over the antenna mast. The purpose is to ground the mast...

@inline6 What do you mean by 'workbook'? And what do you mean by 'resources section of this website'? (I can't find anything tabbed as 'Resources') p.s. Thanks for the link to the spreadsheet. That's the most comprehensive and detailed list of S30 fasteners that I've seen so far. All that's missing are the part numbers (although adding those would be a huge task). If possible, it would be a great addition to the 'Knowledge Base' section of the CZCC website. Do you know the identity of the author?

Website says they'll be closing down the business at the end of 2025 (they've been in operation since the mid-1980's, so that's a pretty good run). They appear to be re-sellers, rather than manufacturers (I suggest this b/c they're offering an extensive catalogue of parts across dozens of badge plates and vintages). I wonder where they've been sourcing that Z hatch seal. Japan, maybe?

W = Wide Ratio (uses Warner-type brass synchro’s) C = Close Ratio (uses Porsche-type steel ‘servo’ synchro’s)

That's a big area. If you're near Calgary, @zKars might be able to help you with a replacement hub.

You'd better correct or explain this. Otherwise, the CZCC members will write you off for good. Specifically: No one (in their right mind) tries to rev their engine up to 6000 rpm at rest. Hot or cold.

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

I suspect that Nissan, based on its limited world knowledge in the early 1970's, fell victim to expectations that repairs would only be carried out by authorized/factory-trained specialists who lived up to Japanese-market standards. I'll bet there were zero lift-point-related damage issues experienced by Japanese Z owners during the first 2 or 3 generations of ownership. Or maybe never. Until computer-controlled powertrains intervened, the American automotive service industry was the Wild West. Maybe it still is.

Faulty PCV valve? Not surprised. The quality control for these 'consumable' automotive parts is atrocious (spark plugs may be the only exception). They can cripple a car's performance, but spotting a defective item is difficult. You really need to install your 'tune-up' parts one at a time. If the car's performance collapses, you know you've just installed a new-but-defective part. Moral: Buy only the best -- even though they're just 'routine maintenance' parts. Even then, be alert and be suspicious. The auto business is a low-margin enterprise. Even name-brand 'replacement parts' manufacturers have to skate close to the edge in order to keep their shareholders happy. p.s. They do a much better job when it comes to supplying parts for new cars b/c now there are new-vehicle warranty costs involved and their customers (the auto manufacturer) will pay more to keep those costs under control. In the auto biz, it's all about $$$. I will defer to others when it comes to your fuel pump circuitry. My thesis is all about making the system (your engine, along with its fuel and electrical systems) as simple as can be, so that problems much easier to diagnose. Once that's done, you can add back the complexity (emissions control equipment) as you see fit. If it were me, living in Panama and driving a carbureted 50-year-old classic, I'd limit that to the PCV system. All the rest of the 240Z's emissions control gear, viewed from a 2025 perspective, is -- not to put too fine point on it -- finicky crap.

The 240Z engine is a remarkably simple and well-built device... except for the emissions control system. The latter is a train-wreck, typical of the auto industry's late-1960's, analogue-era, pre-ECU/fuel injection, band-aid solutions. The problem was not unique to Nissan. Whether it was the USA, the UK, Italy, France, Japan -- they were universally bad. Why? Because the technology available to the industry that was 'ready for prime time' (i.e. wouldn't get the manufacturer sued for incompetence) was nothing better than a lash-up. In the end, the only answer proved to be a combination of electronic fuel injection + computer control. It took almost 10 years to get there. In Panama, you are re-living the 1970 Los Angeles nightmare -- high temperatures + traffic jams + complicated, ineffective smog equipment technology. Plus -- as I mentioned in an earlier post -- the pssibility that your local gas may be substandard. My advice: 1) Remove all of the emission control equipment; 2) Run the tank dry and then fill up at the biggest, brand-name gas station in downtown; 3) Place your trust in a top-quality auto shop that has a lead mechanic who has proven credentials with carburetors (preferably SU carburetors); 4) Only if steps 1, 2 and 3 can't get the engine running properly should you consider removing the cylinder head.

Colour matching is really important.😎

I suspect that JAlex's problems may be the result of poor local fuel quality combined with local high-temp conditions. Not sure that any of us are qualified to provide proper guidance on that combination. Maybe not even Nissan. It may prove difficult to find qualified tech help in Panama. That said, I hope the new mechanic proves to be up to the task and this will end with JAlex piloting Panama's best Z on his local streets and highways.

Things in Japan are not as 'obvious' to an outsider as they might be in NA and Europe. I agree with CO, in that Kays may prove invaluable. However, you need to be specific about what it is that you're looking for.

Please provide some discussion for the final photo. That looks like an old-tech commercial frame alignment rig... but is that a commercial shop or someone's private garage?

I wonder if "60 or 80 grit" was really meant as "360 or 280 grit"? Those would be credible recommendations for paint prep.

I suggest that you give Charlie a call, rather then relying on Facebook or email. 613) 389-1397

The 'B' transmission's design places the base of the shift lever further forward relative to the front face of the bellhousing, resulting in a number of complications when a B unit is installed in a car that was designed for the A unit... - Base of shift lever hits the front edge of the cutout in the transmission tunnel when 1st or 3rd is selected. - Shifter knob comes too close to the HVAC fascia when 1st or 3rd is selected. I'm curious to know how this issue was handled by the dealer who did the B-for-A transmission swap in your car. p.s. I like the wood cradle that you built to support the car. I know of another Z owner who built a rotisserie from wood.

Mounting studs and hardware should be stainless steel. Too bad the same can't be done for the screws that fasten the lens to the housing.

A dry cleaner's bag works well for this purpose. Also: The seatback upholstery is easier to install if you do the job outside in direct, afternoon sunlight (solar heating helps to soften the vinyl).

I agree... although baby-boom demographics will probably keep the torch burning for at least another 5 years.

Thanks for taking the time to create and post these photos. Maybe I'm just getting old*, but Photo #2 is confusing. Did the rubber really sit under the weatherstrip before both were pushed down over the inch strip? Looking at the photo, it seems hard to believe that the weatherstrip would be capable of generating enough clamping force. (* I plead guilty, as I'm sure many others will, of just pulling the rotted old stuff off without giving much thought to how it actually worked.)

It would be fascinating to see a video showing how the rear glass was installed at the factory back in the day.