Zed Head

You could just take a step back and see how it looked from my end. If you wanted to. I like to have some fun on the forum. Offense was not intended.

Carter electric or Carter mechanical? https://www.carterfuelsystems.com/fuel-pumps/

Mike needs to fix that glitch that allows people on the app to edit their comments and have it look like they never happened. Pretty sure the first post was from tapatalk. Not a good look edearman! No hiding on this forum.

Just remembered another one - the rubber boot around the lever. Very common for the boot to be too thick or stiff for the mechanism to overcome. Very. Edit - I see that EuroDat mentioned removing it, but not as a cause. I had one that used to squeak when I put the lever in to 5th. When I took it apart later, there was a pile of rubber dust inside the boot.

Here is a 1983 5 speed. Only one bracket for the exhaust system hanger. Earlier models had one on each side.

Dave has been deep in to the 5 speeds. He knows of what he speaks. EuroDat too. Among several on the forum. @EuroDat

Nominate for the "latest to the party".

Good luck. The shifter gets people often. Nissan changed something about the mechanism inside the transmission and the early shift levers have problems, especially if the bushings are worn. Worse on the "close ratio" 5 speeds. Nissan used the wide ratio on the 79 and 80 1/2 models. How many exhaust hanger ears do you have?

I meant the non-shifting aspect. It shifted before, it doesn't shift now. Setting aside the CD issue, the logic is a bit off here. CD sent you a supposedly rebuilt transmission that, apparently, shifted in to and held all of the gears. Now you've had it rebuilt for sure, and it doesn't shift and hold the gears. The guy you like did worse than the guy you don't like. Sometimes my objectivity makes me wonder if I'm not a robot. I don't like Al and what he does but the details here suggest the new guy didn't do it right. And you're not saying what he fixed to fix second gear.

You asked the question. What did he do to fix second gear? Obviously it wasn't right the first time. You can't blame California Datsun after the fact.

So, the mechanic did something to fix the problem with 2nd gear? Did he say what he found? Might be a clue about quality of work. I seem to recall reading about problems with 5th if the countershaft nut works loose. Did you replace all of the shifter bushings? It's a 240Z, right? Of course, more details needed.

Directed at the second sentence of the first post.

Every FSM has the distributor curves in the Engine Electrical chapter. And the curves aren't specific to the distributor, they are tied to the combinations of parts. There are no "Weber" curves. Here's 1972, for example. A good starting point.

Damn, the site is getting Gallery imaged again... Hate it when that happens.

People report mixed results when raising the compression ratio by using flat top pistons. Apparently, fuel quality differs across the states so some people get knocking and others don't. If you don't shave the head the N42 or N47 gets you almost 10:1. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ There are so many opinions out there it's crazy. Some people like the rumpety-rump cam noise, some like the 7500 RPM screamer, some like the torquey 3.1 liter engine. RM needs to decide what makes him smile, I'd say, and get those details.

Are you sure it's not 0.4? Regardless, it should be battery voltage, disconnected, with the key on. If you get in to the wiring diagram you'll see that the jumpers in the atlanticz diagram are just meant to route that Lamp circuit directly to the T plug. You could short across the T plug and you'd have a "one-wire" system. Your charge light won't work right though. I think it might drain your battery too. Even if you get it to work you might have a problem with the brake check warning lamp relay, draining tour battery. I had the problem with my 76, after using the atlanticz diagram. They changed it in 77 I think, but not sure exactly how. It might be that the atlanticz diagram is not right for your car, maybe try the 76 diagram. He actually puts a disclaimer in there, I think. CO got deep in to the 77 and 78 waring lamp in a past thread. Eventually I just said screw it I need to know how this all works, and I ran my own S wire, rerouted the power to my warning lamp, and only used the L wire. It's easy to check everything with a meter. Find the L wire, confirm continuity to the L terminal at the T plug, jumper those two together. Pick any S wire, there are 2 or 3 constant power wires at that plug, if I recall, jumper one to the S circuit at the T. Overall, you just need to know which is L. S is easy. Here's a 1982 alternator drawing. The wire colors are probably different but the positions will be the same.

site, the N47 head is essentially the same as the N42 head. Nissan added the exhaust liners for cleaner emissions but didn't change anything else. So if you're not planning to do any porting work, or add a turbo, the two are about the same. The N47 typically comes with the oiler cam also. With carbs, exhaust and cam are probably the simplest power increasers. Increase air flow through the engine. After that, port work on the head. But even with port work, it's mostly intake, not exhaust. There is a lot out there about how effective compression ratio increases really are. They don't do much, on their own. I would read up on CR and its effects before going to the trouble of installing flat top pistons. There's a lot of money you can spend without really gaining much. Plan first then act.

It looks pretty straight, except for the fender. Northwest rust comes from standing water, unlike Northeast rust which comes from salt spray. I have two rust holes on my 76, one from standing water under the driver's seat, and one under the battery from the battery electrolyte. All of the other metal is solid. So that nasty quarter panel hole could be the only really bad spot. It's possible. Edit - I could take a look if somebody was really interested.

You probably left the blue wire disconnected in the engine bay. You should have a wire from the coil negative to the C terminal on the HEI, which you do because it works, and a blue wire to either the C terminal or the coil negative (since they're connected anyway) that runs in to the harness. It ends up back at that resistor, which is connected to the tach. It just lets the tach "see" what's happening at the coil.

On further review I can see where things don't add up. The charge light coming on implies that there is grounding through the alternator. But it might not be. The Charge light can ground anywhere.

It's over in NoPo (North Portland). The license plate numbers don't match. He does have a title though, which is good.

A decent deal on a full setup. Don't know Maltby. Looks close to Seattle. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/z-motor-trans-runs-fantastic/6556176333.html

Isn't it easier to stick a voltmeter probe in to the T connector while everything is installed? The thing is already bolted up. No T plug L circuit voltage = no charging. He already showed that it will charge with the old connections through the regulator so it seems like a lack of current on the L circuit. He could even add a jumper wire from the battery to the L pin as a bench test. Except the bench is the car.

Aren't we at the point where he just needs to unplug one of those bullet connectors and measure voltage with the key on? That's my thought. Seems clear it is the resistor, right?

People ask for advice about price all the time on the forum. If your post was on Craigslist somebody could start a thread here asking if $800 was a fair price for a used 280ZX 5 speed. I was politely suggesting that it's kind of high. If you know the mileage why not post the number? It makes a difference in making a sale. Good luck. I'm doing you a favor.