Zed Head

76 is N42. What's your price range? What kind of quality are you looking for? I have an N42 I'd sell but I'm on the west coast. It's complete, just high miles and needs a skim.

That's a great point. I hadn't thought it out, just posed it as a difference to be considered. The tach should be fine. I'd forgotten that the current just passes by the tach, not through it. As far as the coil, it should be fine also. It's the XR700 that you need to worry about. Apparently, from the not so clear instructions, you should have 3 - 4 ohms total resistance on the primary circuit. And, it's probably best to get it via a low ohm coil and a ballast resistor. Ballast resistors are odd things that automatically change resistance based on current flow time, resistance rises as they get hot. So, they have higher resistance when dwell is long, time-wise, like at low RPM, then let more current flow at higher RPM, as dwell time decreases. Mechanical current limiting. The old pre-electronic age stuff is pretty fascinating once you figure out what they were doing. Just an observation. You could just use a 3 ohm coil and probably be fine. Make sure that the module doesn't get hot and drive it. I think that you meant PS20 coil, not 200. And it is supposed to come with a ballast resistor. The XR3000 is the one that doesn't need a ballast. http://www.cranecams.com/416.pdf

Missed it. But I did find this old boring standard Z car writeup. http://www.motorweek.org/features/auto_world/tire-tracks1970-datsun-240z

Don't know if it's been on yet. Might be soon. Show is on now. Only saw the preview, missed the first half.

Have you tried it? Yes, having the tach in series with the coil sounds right. The question might whether or not the tach can handle the higher current, since the current was limited by the ballast before. Call it a "6 volt" tachometer, using a 12 volt coil now. Crane's instructions are very poor and confusing. And kind of contradictory. But it looks like the 700 keeps the ballast. The 3000 doesn't. http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/instructions/9000-0700_.pdf

That's an interesting thread. It's weird how people always want to talk about things "in private" when in the open is best for everyone involved. Which is the purpose of these kinds of forums. The covering up alone is enough to make you want to avoid. Don't see the value in going private once the dirt is out there. I read the whole thread and it still doesn't look good for Pierre Z. Who knows what really happened? There was a guy on another thread who told me that he didn't post on the open forum, about somebody who seemed to be taking people's money but not producing the product he said he would, because he wanted to get his money back. The guy could pay him off to keep quiet. And it worked, he got his money refunded and/or parts returned and never told anyone. It was one of Senza Pari's customers. Not a fan of private communications about that sort of thing.

I took one of those apart from a 78 parts car. Can't remember the details exactly but a very thin pick might have been involved. I think that I circled the locking mechanism in this picture. It's not what you'd expect. You need four thin jamming devices for each operation, if I recall.

Anybody know Pierre Z? road and Track car. So Cal. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6589297803.html

Competition. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/wan/d/hoarder-need-old-datsun/6585771290.html

Here's a local one for lots of parts. Don't know who "Ron" is. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/nissan-datsun-240z-huge/6573256685.html

Even a 260Z with a bad ad and terrible pictures is going for big money. Might have to put my rusty hoonermobile on the market and see what it might bring. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/z/6591990632.html

A couple of local 240Z's, and an auction that just happened. Looks like they might have more. My ISP routes through Eastern Washington,apparently. Craigslist thinks I'm over there. https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/1970-datsun-240zor-offer/6558803251.html https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/1972-datsun-240z/6575931462.html https://spokane.craigslist.org/ctd/d/lotdatsun-280z-22-lucky/6584900181.html http://www.luckyoldcar.com/

1 mm over would be about .020" per side. The L26 bores are notched for their bigger valves from the factory, apparently. Seems like you'd need to do some clearancing. Here's a Hybridz thread on a similar issue to yours. @madkaw has done some notching. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70734-notchingbevelingbutterfly-l24-block-for-valve-clearance/

Profession does not guarantee expertise.

I thought that the very high current was the reason it's not recommended to jump start a car with a completely dead battery. The abnormally high current and subsequent heat can damage the alternator. Not uncommon to lose an alternator after jump-starting a very dead battery. Makes for some of those odd coincidental failure charging system stories.

There should be a number on it. Look closely, it might be faded ink.

Can you give the CL link?

Although, the part about boredom is on-point. So, thank you for that.

Back to the future...

Good luck.

My mistake.

From post #9 - "The guy I bought it from did say he took out the dash and “fixed it” . Did you remove the dash or did you buy a car with the dash removed? Did the car run fine for you or the other guy? Not really clear what's going on.

You have an odd form versus function dilemma. If function wins then leaving a smooshed steel line is best, I think. Better than a piece of rubber line with hose clamps, isn't it. If you're going for form, then you have to replace the whole thing or use flare fittings to connect the ends of a steel pipe patch piece. Can't see how rubber hose with hose clamps is better than any option. Just conversing. I used compression fittings on my EFI fuel line. That's an option also. Looks clean, and is solid. Doesn't require flaring tools. Got them from McMaster Carr.

I am going to second CO's proposal, but without even the "smoosh" to make it more round. It's just a vapor line. It might even be the one with a check valve in it, and the check valve is probably the main constriction. Have you checked operation of that pump? If it's original, it's old.