Zed Head

You might just keep things as simple as possible to get it back to running condition. If you have the factory stock struts you could even just refill them with oil and use them. Get it running, drive it around, see what you want to do with it. Many people end up not so happy with their "mods" and wish they hadn't done them.

Edit - never mind, just having fun. "Or". If you "never" had a problem with "vapor lock", why did you crack your hood open at times? Doesn't follow. Y'all are both confusing vapor lock with percolation.

thats not the best way. get a meter and do the proper tests in order. make a list and write the numbers down dont do pass-fail, real numbers

You're probably thinking of "corrosive". Brake fluid is a good solvent so after it causes the paint to peel off it cleans the metal then absorbs moisture. Rust city.

This is a good one. Checking voltage at the coil with the key on would show that. This story has gone the typical route of 280Z EFI problems. Try the quick fixes, poke here, pull there, but in the end the OP needs to get a volt meter or test light and check the basics. No meter, slow progress.

We need to start a save the Z charity. Get those other lowering springs and some KYB's and the car will look like you want it to look, ride very well, and be ready for any changes if you decide that it's not good enough. The ride will get much firmer and less "rolly" just by lowering alone. You'll be surprised at how well it handles, especially if you drive any of todays plush luxury mobiles.

It runs. So it has spark. Sounds like it's starting on the cold start valve but not getting injection from the injectors. If he holds the key to Start that keeps the cold start valve open. Until the thermotime switch heats up like it's supposed to. At least the CSV system works. Best get to the Downloads area and download the EFI Guide Book and the 1975 FSM. Then get a meter and do some testing. You're close.

That was probably just the fuel pressure regulator hissing. The injectors don't spray constantly, they open then close. Click, click, click. Does the tachometer work? The computer uses the same "signal" to fire the injectors. Points should do the job since the signal comes from the negative post of the coil. But the blue wire has to be connected to Pin 1.

He spilled a bunch on his paint. Wonder if he'll show the result. Actually brake fluid is an organic chemical. It absorbs water but it's not "water-based" like some paints. It will attack paint but it's not abrasive. It is flammable, but probably less so than diesel fluid. So it probably did end up in the catalytic converter. http://winona.safeschoolssds.com/document/repo/7f33da14-e886-469e-bc05-6c8e5bfb424c

That's a good point. Here's dimensions. Looks like they're about 44 mm diameter. Grab a tube and measure the inside diameter or the outside and subtract a little. https://performanceshock.com/KONI_86_series_race.pdf

Kind of sounds like low fuel pressure. Could be that you have a blockage at one of your filters. Get a gauge and see what pressure it has when it dies. You'll get spraying at 5 psi but that's not enough flow to keep the engine running. You need to know the number.

How many people have old opened bottles of brake fluid on the shelf that they don't want to use because they've been opened but don't know what to do with them? I've found a solution.

Is it a kit that somebody is selling? Need details. Can you post the words from craigslist or wherever you found it? The aluminum parts are used to add adjustable spring perches to your struts for height adjustment. The shock bodies would typically be shorter, by the amount that you plan to lower the car. This puts the shock's piston at the middle of its stroke. You could compare shock body lengths to stock lengths to see how much lowering they're intended for. Some people make "slamming" kits to drop the car to the ground. Shock lengths are on Koni's site I believe. If you're going to really do it right you'll want to know spring rates. Too high and the ride will be harsh, maybe bouncy. Plus, ideally, the spring rates are matched to the shock's damping properties. I see 275 on one set, which is higher than stock. If you really want to get in to designing your suspension right you need to consider your tires. Low profile tires ride harsher. You can make up for it with the struts.

Overdrive.

Which one is NICB? How many did you have to try to find the free one? What kind of information did you get? This is "USA CarRecord". The second one is one of the other guys.

I didn't see a picture of a 620 in that link. Here's what I was looking at below. The tail shaft opening on the 71C's is dramatically bigger. The metal ring is pressed on. The 71C's are early 80's VG30 engines and on I believe. I think he had to have done a front case swap. Anyway, it's a done deal. $27,000 for somebody's 240Z hobby that they messed around with. From zhome - http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

I've heard of those but never seen one. Explains maybe why the transmission mount fits. The typical 71C swap needs a modified mount.

I think it is what you're thinking of. Unfortunately, instead of making it free to the public like they should because our tax money paid for it, they've made it available for companies to use and charge us for the information. Double taxation.

I think the bigger question might be "how low is lowered?" One inch is really not much. Not even sure it counts. I just recalled that the instructions that come with the KYB struts might say something about lowered cars. I think that that might be where the internet recommendations come from. I have them on my ~ one inch lowered car and have no issues, never even bottomed them out. Type of driving and road quality would matter also. I just found a blurb on the Koni site, from less than a week ago about Koni re-introducing a 240Z strut. Spooky. Looks like Motorsport Auto is involved. Surprised they haven't posted something on the site. They don't seem to be available yet, on their web site. Might be worth a call. http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/ Here's another blurb with a phone number at the end. http://www.koni-na.com/getattachment/NorthAmerica/News/News-Releases/KONI-Sport-Performance-Dampers-for-Classic-’70-83/37102_KONI_Datsun_Z_Motorsport_PressRelease.pdf.aspx/?lang=en-US

$27,000 for a resto-mod.

https://www.vehiclehistory.gov/nmvtis_vehiclehistory.html

I just found something that I didn't realize existed. But I doubt that it's complete or current, let alone back-filled with older car information. It depends on the states to supply the information. So, we're back to the individual states. We have states down here that often threaten to secede. Try some VIN's and see what comes up. https://www.vehiclehistory.gov/index.html "Who operates and manages NMVTIS?The U.S. Department of Justice is responsible for oversight of the implementation and operation of NMVTIS, and works in partnership with the American Association of Motor Vehicle Administrators (AAMVA)." Looks like the Act that created it was passed in 1992.

Looks like a "71C" transmsission. You can tell by the size of the tail opening. Could be from a 240SX or a 300ZX or a later model truck. It's not from an S30 though.

I think that this is the key here. You can't do this in the States. Each state, of the 50, plus the various territories, has their own method of keeping records.

It's talked about in the BaT comments but nobody seems sure. It's a 5 speed from a different car, origin unknown.