Zed Head

I'd send it back. If they won't offer support, or instructions, and the wire colors are wrong, who knows about the overall quality of the part. It sounds like a cheap ripoff, easy money for the counterfeiter. The 8920 is about $10 more. You might even consider the Technoversion adapter. He gets good reviews. Seems to make good stuff. https://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html

sitecliffunseen often links to the atlanticz/blue/246 page showing how to rebuild the ZX distributor. Your first one looks like the bushing is shot. The second might be okay. What's wrong with your 280Z distributor? Same power level, just a remote ignition module.

We need to know the parts you're working with. Points, ZX, 280Z VR,...

Looks like "Procomp" copied MSD, but didn't do a great job. You have a dilemma. You want the tach to only see current flow from the coil. So, you might not even need the tach adapter. If you describe the rest of the parts one of the electronics whiz's might have some thoughts. I've not been impressed with those adapters, they often don't work even when connected like MSD says. The tach operation is fairly simple. Sometimes you just need to add a loop at the pickup point on the back of the tach.

Descriptions of how to replace those two seals are definitely an addition to the body of knowledge. Many people over the years have commented about the puddle of oil in the shifter hole. I've given bad advice about it in the past. @FastWoman I'm not sure she still has her car but she had the leaky seals way back when.

Actually the red light would come on if the alt died, signifying a charging problem. And the needle goes up when the engine is running and the alt is charging. So, if you're aware, you'll notice odd needle behavior. I see the main difference as what their names say - one shows amps flowing the other shows volts. But it would be nice to see both. "Gee whiz, there's a lot of current going somewhere". or "Holy moly, my battery level sure is sitting low". I just like to have lots of data to think about. Either way though, you have to look at the gauge occasionally. "How long has that been going on?"

I was talking about the darkness. Bad joke. Why can't we have both. Ammeter and voltmeter?

$10,000 and there's a driving video now. Something off, I think, it's a high performance car shop, supposedly, but the video is just a few seconds of cruising down the highway. They know what people want but don't give it. It's a 240Z with a turbo and giant tires. C'mon! It has some power though. Thanks for posting this wheee! (Mark). Fun to to follow.

Dead battery?

Here's 76. Whatever you're turning, it shouldn't be loose.

So the metal sleeve is still in there, I think I see it). I wonder if the urethane bushings are meant to have the sleeve removed? Might be an option if you can't find a replacement. Press the sleeve out with a vise or a press if the urethane that you have is too tight to fit. It's probably about like a front control arm bushing.

Looks like you need part #18. It would have a metal sleeve around the rubber. Is the metal sleeve still in yours? Not really clear what went wrong with yours. The rubber does not melt. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30

We were just suggesting the DIY way. It's fun. Watching the highly flammable fuel squirt out next the sparky battery connections, creating a cloud of vapor. Good times. As far as Howard: what else would you expect him to say? He's a businessman with $25,000 worth of capital. Just kidding, but seriously... $15 per injector isn't bad. You said you had another set? You might send him seven, if they're Nissan brand, so if he finds a bad one you won't have to buy one of his $30 injectors. And you'll have a spare.

They look like oil pan plugs.

It got a bid. $8,000. USD, I assume.

Could still be dirty/corroded terminals. Or loose terminals. Many people just push the terminals on to the battery posts by hand and leave them that way. They have to be cleaned then clamped down tightly on the posts for the cleaning to last. Otherwise they just get corroded again.

I've posted this before so it might bring up some deja vu. But the numbers you seek might be in here. It's a lot of pages though. He's your Hybridz doppelganger, I think https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/

rcb is right, it just needs to close when warm. It has a heater inside it. If it's open at room temperature that's good. Apply 12 volts to the terminals and it should close in a few minutes. But it's not a vacuum leak if it doesn't close, it's a throttle blade bypass. Like opening up your idle speed screw.

I had a set from a 78 that looked way worse than those. Outside was all rusted up. But they flowed evenly when i tested them. The insides were in great shape. That is the part number for the factory original Nissan injectors. They make a tan color also. The number is the part number for the plastic body, I think. Doesn't mean a lot.

But Standard shows the same style on their web site for the FJ707. You have to fill out some stuff, it uses cookies. https://www.standardbrand.com/en/ecatalog?year=1978

The T means "economy" product. There a lots of T products from Standard. I don't see it on Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224 The selection is much smaller than it used to be. No BWD either.

Found some links - https://www.witchhunter.com/spraypattern1.php http://performancefuelsystems.com/InjectorSprayStyles-TechCorner.htm They say the pintle is designed to spread the fuel but, as you've seen, and me too, it's not much.

Definitely looks like fun. The not-so-hot cars can be driven without so much worry. Here's another new thing. D-Brinkworth flares. Never heard of them either. https://www.facebook.com/DBrinkworthFlares

The early Bosch style injectors just sprayed a stream. Primitive.

The sides don't match. The driver's side is sticking out, the passenger side is even. This car is a driver, not a looker, I think.