Zed Head

I recall past discussions about it. Sometimes we've gone pretty deep in to which ends goes where and how much movement there is at that joint and whether or not the two surfaces ever contact. Anyway I think that that urethane would just get squeezed and destroyed when the suspension moves. It's not meant to be a bearing surface. I think that there's a thread somewhere where people just decided to trim it off. Here's one thread I found that shows how the Nissan part has no rubber in that joint. Separation is controlled by the strength of the rubber in the bushing itself, but if the rubber deflects the two metal surfaces will contact. Number 57 - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/57

It looks like you've removed the battery. That's good. You asked about the negative battery cable before. It attaches to one of the mounting bolts for the starter, I think, or any bolt that is attached to the engine block. Have you taken the dipstick out to check oil quality and level? It's easy to do. Remove the oil fill cap and look inside. Another easy thing. Is it dry and rusty or can you see remnants of oil? Remove the radiator cap and see how the coolant looks. Easy. Is it full? The radiator looks like it has been leaking so will probably leak again if you ever get the engine started.

You are way way back on the "how to start an old engine" curve. The odds are against you getting it started and even more on not damaging it. No offense intended. You are far far away from bringing the dinosaur to life. Do you have any friends that are in to cars? Preferably an older friend. maybe an old uncle, who knows something about points. Many of today's car people know how to "tune" using a computer but don't really know what they're tuning. You have an old very basic car with points and carbs. Not much to it, but you do need to know how things work. Good luck.

Download the Owners Manual and look at the wiring diagram on the back pages.

You need a meter or test light to see if the things that need power are getting it. Like the coil.

Found something in the 1974 FSM. It's not 3 o' clock but it shows both sides. Not sure what "cooler equipped " means. You'd think that they'd just make a damper with two marks.

Thanks for the full story. I've heard of the timing plate or pointer being on the other side, can't remember the reason, but I had assumed that would require a different damper. I don't know how you got in to this predicament but it seems like buying a new plate and putting it on the other side would work, since that's where your mark is. The answer might be in this thread, below. Don't overlook the standoff. Any chance that your old damper has two marks on it? One for each location? You said that it matched the new one but maybe it has two notches.

Found another good one that shows proper zero. He has a degreed wheel but the pointer is right. Also shows some nifty damper damage.

I'm going to guess that he assumed that the timing plate mounted at 3 o 'clock. 3 o' clock is wrong from front or back. Get the timing plate in the right place, at 10 o' clock, and all that's left is an aftermarket sprocket with no notch. If the builder used the 42 links then it's right too. Then, we're back where it should have been with "have you confirmed spark?".

Just to reset things from the start. It's not clear that you know much about the engine. Can't tell if it came from a car or maybe you bought a box of engine parts. All that's clear is that you had an engine "rebuilt". And, "timing mark at 3" depends on if you're looking from the front or the back. Could be on the passenger side or the driver side. There is a variety of different ignition timing setups out there for the Z's and ZX's. Some have the gradations on the pulley for use with a pointer, some on the timing plate for use with a single damper mark, and there are different timing mark plates for the Z and the ZX. Might help your cause if you started from the beginning, describing the engine and the car it came from and how long you've had them. Good luck.

Here's a grimey one. It shows zero, but he has a later timing plate with an early damper. A later damper would have just one notch, and sit at the zero at TDC. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/can-i-get-crank-pulley-fit-34699/

Did you ever confirm/know that the damper timing mark was correct before the engine was rebuilt? You started your story in the middle. I don't think that any of the timing mark plates available sit at 3 o'clock. That would be horizontal with the damper center. Maybe you have your timing plate in the wrong spot. 10 o'clock sounds right. I can't find a Z picture (it's the one weird thing about all of the FSM and Owners Manuals - there are no good pictures of the ignition timing marks) but here's one for a Datsun 1200. It's about the same. Around 10 o' clock

Forgot to ask - where is the damper pulley mark? Can you post a picture of that? Then you'll have TDC, cam lobe positions, and ignition timing marks.

I think that you just have an aftermarket timing chain sprocket (three holes instead of four) with no notch so no need for the holes at the top, and either a bad damper pully, or the damper pulley has been installed with no key in the keyway. Might be that your guy pushed the key out of the slot when he installed the damper. I'd pull that damper and check the key and keyway. Your sprocket only has three holes, the factory sprocket has four. Edit - I guess it might possible also to install the sprocket without the locating pin. I see the 1, 2, and 3 on the sprocket so something is weird there. So, I'd pull the sprocket also. Use the tool so you don't drop the chain. Overall, both your sprocket and your damper don't seem to match piston location. Might be that your builder had the piston on the exhaust stroke when he installed the parts. So, maybe you're right but he was wrong. This is my new theory - your builder installed the sprocket on the exhaust stroke and maybe just eyeballed the damper pulley without the key in the keyway because it didn't line up. Either way, since you know you're at TDC on the piston, you need to get the damper and sprocket to match. Pull them off on and reinstall and hope no valves were damaged. Short answer - something is not right so it's best to take it apart and start over.

One of the silver Z's is up today. 1978. And a 69 Roadster. >>> $25,750 for the 78, $30,500 for the Roadster. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-87/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-2000-roadster-39/

Is it an automatic or manual? You can check if the engine is locked up by putting it in gear and moving the car. I'd pull the plugs first just to see how they look. Squirt some oil in the plug holes. Like SteveJ said you have a lot to do before trying to start it or drive it. Are you in Vancouver B.C. or Vancouver, WA? Looks like the car sat by saltwater, maybe even under water.

I was kidding. Looks like somebody already converted back to carbs. p.s. that engine bay is hideous.

After moving the diff back you're in the place that Diseazd described where the same propeller shaft will work all the way through 1978. The dimensions stayed the same once they got the diff directly between the wheels. But, the short propeller shaft that was used with the forward mounted diff is the one that people use with the 240SX (71C) transmission. So, if you still have it, it's about a perfect fit.

I started at CO's post and worked my way backward and I really thought you were going to describe how to make a bong out of a giant socket.

How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title?

How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title?

Do you know what the material is or have a link to Hung Vu's page or web site? I know a bit about materials. Hope he chose one with no plasticizers, they tend to end up on the wind shield.

Sounds like it is essentially identical to what you have in your 77 now, performance expectations wise. If it's been assembled well it seems like money wasted to take it apart again. You might check the wipe pattern and examine the quality of the rocker arm lash pads. See if they've been reground or the builder just put old ones back on. Cam lobe wiping seems to be the most common damage to newly rebuilt engines. Mark just replied but I'm going in anyway!! Submit Reply!

The lobes should look just like this. I stole this picture from a Google search that linked to a CZCC thread but the picture wasn't in it when I opened it. In case someone recognizes it. It's starting to sound like you're on the exhaust stroke.