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Dash Differences : Under the skin


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We have discussed differences in the dashes through out the various years, but I’ve never seen a discussion about the differences BEHIND the dash pad.  There are wiring differences, 73 dashes have the lit controls and pull hazard switch, but I’m talking stuff you REALLY don’t see.  

This week I’m swapping a cracked dash pad for a Hung Vu reproduction dash pad on a fairly early 1970 240Z, VIN 27xx ish.

I was having trouble fitting the old dash frame into the new dash pad, and wondered if the issues are related to the expected minor differences in the fancy new dash pad or something unique about the frame itself, There were a couple of screw holes in the HCP area that were obviously not in the same place in the new pad (there are lovely metal bars built in where the frame to pad screws bite, predrilled too!) so I wondered what else might be “unique”

Downstairs I go to get another dash, this one from a 72. Removing the steel frame from the dash pad and comparing it to the early frame there are several very obvious differences. Most are related to strengthening the frame.

I’m just going to post a series of pictures that compare the two. 

BTW, the 72 frame fits the new pad much better. Not entirely sure why.

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I don’t want to say much about the new dash pad itself yet, but it is made in a very different way to the original. It is one homogenous thick black rubberish blob with a textured outer appearance that seems to just be texture stamped into the blob (texture looks to be a great match to the OEM), rather than a plastic texture skin over a foam core structure like the OEM pad. Likely going to make longevity much better.

No clue about long term UV susceptibility or need or use-fullness of using spray on protectants like “armor all” or the like. There are no instructions for care and handling guidance in the box.

There are no pre-cut holes for the dimmer, speedo reset, cig lighter or hazard switch. Even the glove box area is mostly a large skin that has to be cut out to “Fit”. The gauge and vent openings are all open and sized properly, no trimming there.

And unlike the stock pad, there are no wrap around flaps of the cover material that line areas like the glove box opening or HCP opening. Don’t think you need it, but it might affect the “look” of the glovebox area when it’s open  on the left and right side. You will likely have to paint the steel exposed frame black to resemble OEM. 

Only read good things about this pad from FB users. 

Looks like I will use my 72 frame instead of buddies 70. Two reasons. One, the 72 frame just fits better, all the holes for the screws are in the right place (only the two at the bottom of the HCP area are different on the 70 dash, you could just drill two new holes in the frame).  

Second the frame is stronger and better braced. I noticed the raw dash pad is slightly curved compared to the frame, it will need to be flattened as I put the screws in to draw it into the frame, which is aided by the stronger 72 frame. 

Gotta remember to swap the VIN plates....

Edited by zKars
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