Jump to content


Cool Tool of the Day. (CTOD)


Recommended Posts

Gland nut removal tool ....



Old bracket + 8.8 bolts and a step drill to widen the centre hole.










Just add hammer. 2lb is ideal. Oh and bolt strut bottom to the garage floor pre-drilled with a couple of rawlplugs in place.




 Clearly the original gland nut needs a couple of holes drilled but the new ones from Koni come pre-drilled.




  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just stare at that little beauty for a minute. The brake line threaded into that little remnant of an old brake line welded to the bar is the secret weapon.

I already use the CuNi tubing and have for years. It is very soft and forms nicely in my powerful hands. However, there is one bend type that is always challenging and of course occurs frequently. A tight curve near the end of the tube. Bending the end of the tube requires more force as the leverage is reduced with shorter length. Don’t believe me, make a 180 in the middle of a 12 long piece, then make it again at the end. My finger tips cringe at the thought of it.

Dang, if only there was a way to safely, easily grab the end of the tube in a vise grip or something without screwing up the threads or crushing the tubing and giving me an extension handle to increase leverage. BINGO! Thread the tube nut into an old female brake fitting welded to the end of a scrap.


Consider that little devil tight S curve on the stock front caliper.  TWO tight 180 bends near BOTH ends! Impossible to make it nice and pretty and kink free!

Not any more.

I made a bunch. Need any?  All of these were created on the car on real stock calipers and strut tube mounted hose ends, so they fit perfectly. They are R and L sided. They took literally 5 minutes each to bend and fit.


Yes, they are not the exact same shape as the stock ones, sorry. Those bends are ridiculous.


Edited by zKars
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes there is a 1.25 diameter roller thing at the other end to help you form tubing as well if and when that comes in handy.

That wheel is a screen door bottom guide roller. It has a 1/4” groove, bit bigger than the 3/16 tubing, but works just fine.


  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

@zKars Nice and simple, which is the best kind!  Were you able to hand-form the S-bends without kinking?  I've used a steel rod inserted into the end of the tube (also works for straightening).  Not great at all, but expeditious!  I think I will fab me up one of yours for my pending steel lines replacement adventure.

Also really like the TC compression tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Here's a modification I did to a socket to get at that main nut in the 4 and 5 spd transmissions, can't remember what the size of that nut.






I started at CO's post and worked my way backward and I really thought you were going to describe how to make a bong out of a giant socket.  

Edited by Zed Head
  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 177 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.