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Cool Tool of the Day. (CTOD)


zKars

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Gland nut removal tool ....

 

 

Old bracket + 8.8 bolts and a step drill to widen the centre hole.

 

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Just add hammer. 2lb is ideal. Oh and bolt strut bottom to the garage floor pre-drilled with a couple of rawlplugs in place.

 

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 Clearly the original gland nut needs a couple of holes drilled but the new ones from Koni come pre-drilled.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just stare at that little beauty for a minute. The brake line threaded into that little remnant of an old brake line welded to the bar is the secret weapon.

I already use the CuNi tubing and have for years. It is very soft and forms nicely in my powerful hands. However, there is one bend type that is always challenging and of course occurs frequently. A tight curve near the end of the tube. Bending the end of the tube requires more force as the leverage is reduced with shorter length. Don’t believe me, make a 180 in the middle of a 12 long piece, then make it again at the end. My finger tips cringe at the thought of it.

Dang, if only there was a way to safely, easily grab the end of the tube in a vise grip or something without screwing up the threads or crushing the tubing and giving me an extension handle to increase leverage. BINGO! Thread the tube nut into an old female brake fitting welded to the end of a scrap.

 

Consider that little devil tight S curve on the stock front caliper.  TWO tight 180 bends near BOTH ends! Impossible to make it nice and pretty and kink free!

Not any more.

I made a bunch. Need any?  All of these were created on the car on real stock calipers and strut tube mounted hose ends, so they fit perfectly. They are R and L sided. They took literally 5 minutes each to bend and fit.

9B04A5B9-3CD0-44E4-B258-4409B589B7F2.jpeg

Yes, they are not the exact same shape as the stock ones, sorry. Those bends are ridiculous.

3BBFDE96-9CBE-48B7-86D2-125AD05AABE7.jpeg

Edited by zKars
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Yes there is a 1.25 diameter roller thing at the other end to help you form tubing as well if and when that comes in handy.

That wheel is a screen door bottom guide roller. It has a 1/4” groove, bit bigger than the 3/16 tubing, but works just fine.

FBD3537B-D0DD-4860-BD48-C9D460C733AE.jpeg

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  • 4 months later...

@zKars Nice and simple, which is the best kind!  Were you able to hand-form the S-bends without kinking?  I've used a steel rod inserted into the end of the tube (also works for straightening).  Not great at all, but expeditious!  I think I will fab me up one of yours for my pending steel lines replacement adventure.

Also really like the TC compression tool.

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Here's a modification I did to a socket to get at that main nut in the 4 and 5 spd transmissions, can't remember what the size of that nut.

 

DSCN6579.jpg

DSCN6582.jpg

DSCN6583.jpg

 

I started at CO's post and worked my way backward and I really thought you were going to describe how to make a bong out of a giant socket.  

Edited by Zed Head
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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Two submissions today

the first is a little “make a job easier” tool for testing manual transmissions or computing ratio’s in various gears.

Its just the center spline of a worn out clutch disk with a hunk-o-scrap welded on with a handle. Now you prevent yourself (ok myself) from clamping vise grips on the trans input shaft splines to make it spin.

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C62387E4-3504-4B92-8E35-BF6C3E2108F4.jpeg

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Ok here is the second tool I promised. Didn’t have pics last night.

It relates to loosening old rusty brake line nuts. How many of you have been forced into vise grips on a brake or clutch line nut because your fancy flare nut wrench spreads and slips around a really old and tight one? Come on, fess up, we all do it. You get it loose, sure, maybe with some heat, but the hex of the nut is invariably wrecked. When you go to put the line back on, now you HAVE to use vise grips to tighten it, and the hex soon becomes a circle……

I have tried MANY brands of flare nut wrenches, all are simply not good enough. So, I made my own! With a special feature.

Here is the standard heavy walled flare nut wrench.

CEA5A49A-7684-4B5F-9FCA-AE08A901AB0B.jpeg

My idea was to add some way of squeezing that wrench hex closed to tightly grip the hex of the line nut, so it CAN’t slip around. First approach was to dream of fancy levers and threaded things to apply the needed force to close down on that heavy open “C” and squeeze the nut, but even with my largest vise grips, I really couldn’t apply enough force to collapse the opening. Ok, so maybe grind down the wall thickness until its thin enough to give? Maybe, but why not find a thinner walled wrench to start with? Well there is no such thing. Unless….

So I just bought a cheap Amazon 10 mm 6point box end wrench and turned it into a flare nut wrench by using a thin cutoff wheel and making a 3/16 gap in the end!   My creation on the left, standard flare nut wrench on the right.

6E89A591-912C-45E3-A54A-6280A5523D3A.jpeg

Now its easy to squeeze that gap with a 8” vise grip

2D2E2944-B811-407E-9FA8-57B250168B75.jpeg

D908C05C-6D66-4447-86A0-81F5B705E707.jpeg

 

So you just place the wrench on the line nut, then close the vise grips over the “C” and squeeze it shut. Then apply all the force you want with a hammer or pipe or whatever it takes to break the nut loose without fear of stripping the hex.

After extensive testing on several cars recently, this little jewel is working perfectiy! The only thing I need to do is make the handle longer so I can tug on it by hand without beating on it with a hammer all the time, especially when the room around nut is tight.

C5775C0B-CD94-4905-A90D-EA01D242BDBD.jpeg

 

65083032-3A22-4270-9E46-79010359B9D7.jpeg

Edited by zKars
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5 hours ago, zKars said:

Ok here is the second tool I promised. Didn’t have pics last night.

It relates to loosening old rusty brake line nuts. How many of you have been forced into vise grips on a brake or clutch line nut because your fancy flare nut wrench spreads and slips around a really old and tight one? Come on, fess up, we all do it. You get it loose, sure, maybe with some heat, but the hex of the nut is invariably wrecked. When you go to put the line back on, now you HAVE to use vise grips to tighten it, and the hex soon becomes a circle……

I have tried MANY brands of flare nut wrenches, all are simply not good enough. So, I made my own! With a special feature.

Here is the standard heavy walled flare nut wrench.

CEA5A49A-7684-4B5F-9FCA-AE08A901AB0B.jpeg

My idea was to add some way of squeezing that wrench hex closed to tightly grip the hex of the line nut, so it CAN’t slip around. First approach was to dream of fancy levers and threaded things to apply the needed force to close down on that heavy open “C” and squeeze the nut, but even with my largest vise grips, I really couldn’t apply enough force to collapse the opening. Ok, so maybe grind down the wall thickness until its thin enough to give? Maybe, but why not find a thinner walled wrench to start with? Well there is no such thing. Unless….

So I just bought a cheap Amazon 10 mm 6point box end wrench and turned it into a flare nut wrench by using a thin cutoff wheel and making a 3/16 gap in the end!   My creation on the left, standard flare nut wrench on the right.

6E89A591-912C-45E3-A54A-6280A5523D3A.jpeg

Now its easy to squeeze that gap with a 8” vise grip

2D2E2944-B811-407E-9FA8-57B250168B75.jpeg

D908C05C-6D66-4447-86A0-81F5B705E707.jpeg

 

So you just place the wrench on the line nut, then close the vise grips over the “C” and squeeze it shut. Then apply all the force you want with a hammer or pipe or whatever it takes to break the nut loose without fear of stripping the hex.

After extensive testing on several cars recently, this little jewel is working perfectiy! The only thing I need to do is make the handle longer so I can tug on it by hand without beating on it with a hammer all the time, especially when the room around nut is tight.

C5775C0B-CD94-4905-A90D-EA01D242BDBD.jpeg

 

65083032-3A22-4270-9E46-79010359B9D7.jpeg

An ingenious idea. 
 

Although in all the years I’ve worked on vehicles and machinery repairing hydraulic systems, I have always been able to get stripped flare nuts off, no matter how stripped or corroded in place. I have used vice grips, cold chisels, a flat file to file the nut into a useable shape again, or when all else fails, cut the tubing, remove the part and drill out the nut.

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23 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So what is it that opens your garage door now though?  LOL

So nobody wonders why I said that? Nobody is even going to ask?

What? Am I the only person out there in the whole world that looked up the part number stamped on the handle on Jim's awesome transmission spinner device? Just me?     :ph34r:

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