Zed Head

This can't happen unless the wheels are spinning or the differential is broken. If the differential is broken it's permanent. There's no not moving then moving.

The internet is an amazing thing. I tracked down a guy who was ripping people off and using the money to pay for his wedding. Just for fun, I didn't share the info with the victims, just told them it was "out there" if they wanted to find it. The dealership might have the VIN and the VIN is used by most people that sell 240Z's these days. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

Add as much more information as you can. This is nowhere near enough. Not even close. Pictures, dates, names, dealership, etc. will all leave traces on the internet. 72-73 240Z is everywhere though. Well?...

Clutch problem

Automatic or manual?

No. heyitsrama is probably right. Looks like your exhaust system has broken before the muffler. That's why it sounds like a straight pipe. Your timing sounds retarded also. Have you set it with a timing light recently?

You should create a youtube channel and put your videos there. I've only been able to play a couple of them. Your latest one won't play.

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

Stripped threads are not the common failure point for the 240Z axles. It's the base of the threaded portion, the transition to the splines.

The strap is visible in the picture. It looks like a strap. The noise is caused by the nose of the differential lifting up and bumping the stuff in the transmission tunnel and/or the diff nose dropping down and banging off of the crossmember after it lifts up. p.s. don't mess around under there unless you have some good jack stands supporting the car. It's a lightweight car but still heavy enough to crush.

Didn't even see this one go by. Very nice. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-44/

Arm rest door, or arm rest console? Probably a broken diff mount and strap.

I think that you could use this 5 pin relay to open when powered through the pressure switch but close when oil pressure is present (removing the ground path), supplying fuel pump power. There would be a delay until oil pressure built up. Might have to wire in a branch from the starter solenoid so that the pump gets power during Start. You're probably done already but I felt like exercising (hurting) my brain a little bit more. There is some neat stuff on that web site. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209150.asp

One last thing, in case you didn't know. The oil pressure switch is actually a combination switch and sensor. One pin supplies the pressure resistance for the gauge, the other pin supplies the ground signal to the fuel pump control relay. If you're thinking that the "switch" is between the two pins, it's not.

And, the switch is normally closed. It opens when pressurized.

I think I see what the diagram is trying to do. But "ignition switch" doesn't tell if it's Run or Start. I screwed up and misread the diagram. Edit mode... The problem is probably in the pressure switch. The Nissan pressure switch passes current to ground. Your diagram shows it as passing current to a pin on the switch. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002155.asp

The oil pressure switch is only used on the 78 280Z and 280ZX's to control the fuel pump relay. Look at the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter is you want to see how the pressure switch is used. Your diagram is odd. Looks like somebody created their own safety system. The only wire that should be connected to the starter solenoid is the wire from the ignition switch.

This will answer the question about if it's an electrical problem. There's just one small wire to the solenoid and it only does one single thing. Starters do bind up sometimes. The drive gear gets stuck in the ring gear.

Why did you replace the starter? Trying to figure out if the new parts caused the problem. It might be mechanical. Connect a voltmeter or test light to the starter solenoid and see if it has power after you let the key go back to Run. If it only lights up on Start then it's not an electrical problem. If the light or meter show power while the engine is running then it's an electrical problem.

So, does the engine never die because it automatically restarts? Describe more about the L28. Is it carb'ed or EFI? Are you using mechanical fuel pump or electric? Can't really diagnose a non-stock setup without knowing what you're using. The Start circuit should only be active when the key is at Start. Why did you replace the ignition switch? For this problem or some other reason?

Something different. You need to listen to the whole album, several times.

That site only evaluates online written content, apparently. So the "shock jock" personalities wouldn't be included. Rush Limbaugh, for instance. And the videos and interviews that the networks show wouldn't be included either. https://www.allsides.com/media-bias/media-bias-ratings We provide separate bias ratings for news and editorial/opinion content for a number of outlets. Unless otherwise noted, all bias ratings are based on online, written content, not broadcast, TV, or radio content. Our ratings are fluid and subject to change over time as new information is gathered and biases change. To see the ratings in action, visit our balanced newsfeed.

Injector power comes from the EFI relay and the fusible links. 1978 has two green links connected directly to the battery positive terminal. Use a meter to test for voltage before using a noid light to test for current.