Zed Head

These?

Just curious but do people drive around with no filters on those triple Webers?

I meant that it looks like it has seen salt. Your fender well edges might be rotting. The rear shelf under the hatch lid. Inside the gas fill area. It only takes one trip after a snow storm to load things up with salty grime. It just sits there and works. Plus, somebody has already been fixing, as shown by the riveted supports. There's probably filled or painted over rust areas.

Kind of odd. Is he calling it a "Fairlady" because of the mirrors? 1978 can't be "matching numbers" because Nissan stopped putting the engine serial number on the tag. 1978 with a 4 speed is unusual. He forgot to write about the rear discs. Here's the real reason. It's a consignment car. http://www.realmusclecar.com/inventory/?type=auto&order=date|DESC https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/?dealer_id=1080

No offense to the later model 280Z owners...but it is "just" a 1978 280Z. A much better 280Z can be found for much less than it will cost to fix that one. If it doesn't have sentimental value, there's not much point to fixing it. Unless you want a good long project to work on.

How does the rest of the car look? Might be more important. There are other rust prone areas. Looks salty.

I don't think that they know a whole lot about what they have. Probably why they didn't set a price. The car show people have probably told them it's worth many many thousands of dollars. "Black leather interior. " "take it to car shows regularly. "

Reading this thread and last few posts I just realized where the faint smell of gasoline is coming from in my engine bay. If I'm leaning over the fuel filter I can smell it. I've spent a lot of time checking all of the clamps and hose to rail, and hose to filter, fittings. But now I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister. The thought popped in to my head as I was about to say what the signs of clogged activated charcoal would be. It does get full eventually.

Not really sure which car you're working on, but there is a variety of wiring and relay upgrades that can be applied. Besides the general cleaning of the connections. Describe some gremlins and we'll offer our potions and spells.

You need to test it first. Make sure you get your eyes to bug out like the picture. There's an illustration of the filter change also. This is from 1976.

That is a very nice set of connectors. Proper spacing and everything. You might consider using a male and female connector (Weatherpack is popular, I think) at the end that you cut so that you can just remove all six as an assembly whenever needed. Much easier than splicing all six separately. Looks like it was made for it. http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml

There was the same question not too long ago about exactly this. Browse through Captain Obvious's, and my, old posts and you might find it. Thin blades are the key, slip them in between the locking tabs, add some soapy water and pull them out.

It makes you wonder if the early ignition modules, 76 and 77, would actually work with no ballast and a larger plug gap. The first electronic ignition modules for the 260Z and maybe the early 75 280Z, were cool looking finned aluminum case units. Implying that they had heat issues, even with a ballast. I was lucky enough to have a 76 and 78 at the same time so compared those small things. I actually used the 78 module in my 76 for a while, with some wiring changes, after the 76 module crapped out. Now it's all GM HEI though, even the coil.

I've done it on a 76 280Z. You just have to contort and have the right tools. I think that I used a small 12 point closed end wrench and turned a point at a time. Or something similar. The clip probably required needle nose pliers or similar. I remember the ordeal, but not the details. I seem to recall that disconnecting the actuating rod was hard also. Overall, a tedious pain.

I had a 78 parts car and it did not have a ballast. I think that it was the first "high energy" ignition system used on the Z's. They even upped the spark plug gap. Except for Canada. Maybe Canada still had the old system.

Places that do a lot of bearing fitting often make test bearings by making the race dimensions smaller so that they drop in, instead of press in. Sanding or grinding the outer surface of your old bearing for example. If you have a belt sander you could probably do that to see if you have a dimension problem or a fitting problem.

Never mind. Had a comment about preload but it was off. Should work fine. I've noticed that the travel of aftermarket shocks seems to vary. So you might find that certain shocks bottom out sooner than others. Seems like a good reason to go through all of the parts and see what's what.

Use Loctite and no washer.

Maybe Mike's working on it or maybe this page made one of those Star Trek do-loops. This is what's down there now. I was talking to somebody about the ad topic the other day. If they would just be honest and call it tracking software people would probably be fine with it. Get rid of the ads and just track the web pages we visit. That's what "ad" software does. It's the tracking data that is generating revenue, not the ads that anybody actually clicks on.

Not a big deal but doesn't that shaft now have two "slip" points, one at the transmission and one in the middle? Probably fine, just interesting. Once you get the front case modified, boring the holes, and clearancing for first gear, to fit your S14, you can pretty easily swap gear boxes. So, even if you get a grindy transmission, it will be just a transmission drop and front case swap to get another in there. It's the machine work that takes the time, first pass around.

Spring rate can also depend on the heat history and type of steel. There's a bunch out there about it but here's a couple of links. Plus the coil on the right looks like it's wound on a wider diameter so not the same manufacturer, probably. https://www.meadmetals.com/blog/types-of-metal-compared-infographic https://www.precisionsteel.com/spring-steel https://www.mw-ind.com/faq-items/what-is-the-difference-between-cold-winding-and-hot-winding-and-when-is-one-chosen-over-the-other/

Grounds, the oftenoverlooked part of the circuit... There's supposed to be a ground wire that runs from the distributor mounting bolt to the body. Yours must have got lost over time.

I'm going to guess that you'd need to have some made. The N42 has the biggest valves already, for that head design. The ZX heads have the same valve head sizes too.

1 mm oversize valves would not be a standard part. You'd need bigger valve seats also. Are you sure you can't just replace the valve seats and use standard size valves? Don't know what you're trying to do but your request is odd.

Computer. Right now it's 3 ads and 5 CZCC images.