LeonV

Sweet! Could you post the part number and vendor? I'd imagine having wingnuts in the center instead of screws would help the space situation. I need to get some for my 45s, I've got those mesh filters on the air horns currently. I plan to do some testing on air filters when I hit the dyno again.

Plain, straight strut bars are next to useless, if you're concerned about performance. Triangulated bars that connect to the firewall can actually be effective. I believe TEP sells one and there was a recent thread where a forum member detailed how they built their own. If you're racing, check the rulebook on whether they allow triangulated bars for your class. TEP Bar: Nissan Page

I envy the amount of clean space in your garage.

STOP! Do a compression test first. Let us know the results.

As Steve has suggested a few times, download the FSM and check out the BE section.

It was in reference to Steve's post, which I quoted in my reply. Steve was referring to the big, red emergency start button in the engine bay which bypasses the interlock.

Right... Let me ask you this: have you ever done any sort of your own instrumented testing? Have you invested your own time and money just to prove that you're right to some guy on a forum? I've posted test results on other subject matters as others elsewhere have used their time to do proper testing on their own coin, and then posted it on a public online forum. If you so badly want me to set up controlled, instrumented testing on this subject, I'm happy to do so if you pay me for my time, supplies, and dyno time. You like to complain about how others don't have "conclusive" evidence, yet you never seem to have your own. Maybe we should ONLY talk about things that have been "conclusively" proven, because apparently everything else is just worthless BS. I'm sorry that I applied fundamental engineering principles, related empirical evidence, and logic in an attempt to describe a physical phenomenon. Guess that's just bull**** too. Moving on...

Actually, this conversation originally stemmed from your assertion: Your claims were the ones that were completely made-up and unsubstantiated.

The stock EFI pump would flow plenty at 3psi. Setup your regulator to regulate backpressure and the pump will be quiet and reliable. This is assuming that 280Z fuel feed and return lines are the same diameter.

Very well could be! My EDIS module and relay/fuse panel rests where that button used to be...

Are you sure about that, Phil? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/46788-ste-syncrometer-higher-rpm-balancing-arghhhhh.html

First Test: short the starter + and solenoid spade terminals with a screwdriver and see if it spins. Second Test: measure voltage to solenoid with key at START. If it's less than 10V, there is too much voltage drop. If it's zero, then it could be wiring, interlock, etc. I wired in a $5 relay to solve this issue on my 260Z. I've also disabled the interlock.

Welcome! Post some pics and I'm curious of the VIN/build date. I'm a 260Z fan, if you can't tell.

I was planning to do the same thing before deciding not to. Another 260Z owner told me about his mistake, cutting the bumper shock before realizing that it can be depressurized and compressed!

Conjecture? Subtle results? Temp readings at different points of the head, while at steady state on an engine dyno issounds like a good procedure to me, with very conclusive results to boot! Heat Transfer is not voodoo. The back of the head is hotter because it receives the hottest coolant and the least amount of flow. You improve cooling by either increasing flow, delivering cooler coolant, or both. Exactly how much more evidence do you need? I've been saying all along that running it to the radiator would be a better solution to plugging (with a properly restricted line) and much better than looping. The evidence very strongly points to it. What got me thinking originally was John Coffey's post about how he's routed the heater supply to the thermostat housing. While that may be effective (I don't know), I concluded that routing it past the thermostat was a better idea, since you'd be in more control over where this coolant is flowing. If instrumented testing proves me wrong, I'll happily eat my words.

I'll quote a few statements I made earlier... You need to see the big picture here. Temps at the back of the head have been measured to be hotter than the front. The "bad" thing to do is to short the back of the head to the water pump inlet. This raises coolant temperatures (because of bypassing the radiator) and further increases chances of overheating at the back of the head. Plugging the back of the head puts you at square one. Routing the back of the head to the radiator only helps to improve things. This would help promote flow at the back of the head. More coolant flow = more cooling. Less flow = less cooling and increased chances of nucleate boiling. It should be clear that there should be some restriction in the line. Look at the (somewhat undetailed) drawing in the Cooling section of the FSM, page CO-1, if this is unclear.

Sure thing.

That's a good idea. Check all sockets, starting with the parking lights. Those are a very likely culprit.

Save yourself the trouble and get a STE-SK syncrometer instead of a Unisyn. Same price and magnitudes better. I gave my last Unisyn away for free...

I thought it was well-known that Nissan improved the spray bar design over the years...

Yes, that's exactly it. The whole reason for the head being hot in the back is that the thermostat is in the front, as is the water pump. The path of least resistance is to the front of the head, thus the back gets less cooling. By creating a path from the back of the head to the radiator, you are working to equalize temps, not the other way around as you infer. What Tim and other guys are doing is a better solution as they tap into multiple (or "better") spots in the head, but that doesn't make routing a small line from the back of the head to the radiator inherently "bad". With that said, it will definitely not "increase the chance of overheating"...

Deviation from stock means .1914/.25 = .7656 (for the 1"), or 23% larger than the 7/8 MC. Deviation from stock reflects how much LESS pedal travel there is and how much MORE pedal force is required. Using the 1" to 7/8" comparison (with stock calipers), there is 23% more force required but 23% less pedal travel.

Wha??? I have NEVER heard this. Shorting the back of the head to the pump inlet creates issues. Creating a path from the back of the head to the radiator only helps to improve things. There's a huge thread on HybridZ detailing this.

Wow, that is going to sell "qwik"-ly!

I'm going off of the FSM: