LeonV

A good target would be as lean as you can go while keeping the engine running smoothly. That might be 12-13:1 on a cold start. If you're at 14:1 at cold idle without start enrichment, then I bet you're too rich when the car is fully warm.

Not sure what you mean by the suspension being "a bit bouncier" but removing the rear ARB should not be detrimental to around-town driving. It will only be noticeable when the car is driven harder, as an increase in steady-state understeer. The ARB does nothing if both wheels are in jounce/rebound.

Welcome Theron! Cool to a member from Dorrington. We've been regularly staying there for YEARS during our winter ski trips. Love that place.

Nope, same exact part. Never had an issue in my old 240Z either. Come to think of it, I still have my old 240Z mirror. Wanna buy it?

Cool. It's definitely rare to see a Mk1 in such great and original shape!

I don't think you understand, John sells ST ARBs which mount to the rear transverse link supports and not the frame. It all comes down to what you want. Do you WANT stiffer ARBs? If the answer is no, then go with the weld-it-back-up idea. Might as well do bushings and end-links at the same time...

Yup... Fairlady Z Mesh Grill - Reproduction Thead - Vendor's Forum - HybridZ

I've never had an issue...

Hi Rob! Any pics of the Supra?

Saw a great looking (and sounding) black 240Z on 25th Ave and Fulton around 7pm last Friday, if my memory serves me right.

Ouch is right!

You "know" the starter has a relay inside the car? If it does, it's not stock. The starter solenoid is the SOLE relay in the stock starting system. I added a $5 relay to trigger the solenoid directly from the battery (using the ignition switch to trigger the relay coil) and haven't had issues since.

What do you mean by the "factory installed relay"? The starter solenoid?

Hi Gordon, were you at the ZONC show earlier today? There were a few original owners there with some fantastic looking (and very original) Z-cars! As far as worth, put up some good pictures and you should be able to get some close, credible estimates.

Welcome Tom! Too bad about the shipping damage, but at least your car wasn't on this ship:

A local exhaust shop did my entire 2" twin pipe system, including parts and materials, for $300. I shopped around about 6 different shops and not only was this guy cheaper (one man show), but also more experienced. You just have to find the right shop, but it's probably a bit tougher to do so in Finland...

Good stuff. The only favor we ask in return are pictures and a video when you're done.

There you go! Installing stiffer throttle return springs would be a good idea and now would be an easy time to swap them. There's a thread about them with a part number on this site. EDIT: here's the link - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/48969-weber-internal-spring.html

Check your throttle return springs, they may not be there or are disconnected.

Zs look great, but it's really cool to see a Renault 5 Turbo in there!

Bit loud but simply awesome!

FWIW, the door bar got sturdier starting in '73. Frames were bulked up as the years went by as well.

Nissan began production of 260Zs in 8/73, so that's correct. I've ordered countless parts from Rockauto, more than from anywhere else. I've never had an issue when having to return something either. This mistake lies on both parties, you for not knowing the mid-year rotor change and them for not specifying dimensions or that there was a mid-year change, so the partial-refund seems warranted to me.

FWIW, that shouldn't be a "wire around a nut" but an insulated ring terminal that seats under the nut...

D'oh! I meant "hose" not "wire"...