240dkw

All that is a normal spark you get when you have a small gap from power to ground. Nothing to do with the coil.

Sorry I missed this post yesterday, first thing is to not try any continuity tests while you have the key on unless you are quite sure what you are measuring. You can blow a fuse/ damage something doing that. I am not sure what you mean by “complete continuity”. If you mean that the meter shows an Ohm value instead of 0.00 than yes that could be normal as you are measuring two ends of a circuit that is connected to other circuits in the car. As Captain Obvious pointed out the g/w - b/w circuit goes through the tach and if I recall correctly in 73 they changed how the tach pick up works sometime during the year. So I can’t really say what you should read because I don’t know what kind of tach you have. As well the Captain is correct, you should do the hot wire test.

That is correct so far, but in the run position if you hook up the wire with the power to one end of the resistor and the green to the other end of the resistor you should have power on the second b/w. The g/w and coil b/w are connected inside the harness. Run = 12 v from b/w through resistor to g/w which is connected to the coil b/w. Start = 12 v direct to g/w and coil b/w

No you are just measuring between two different power supply wires that way. To complete a circuit you must go from the wires to ground. Remember to have the wire disconnected, because if the points are closed you will already have a path to ground and will not get a correct reading. And yes the two switch positions are Run and the spring return Start. You should get power on the second b/w wire in the run position if the powered b/w and g/w are hooked up to the resistor or when the key is in the start position as that bypasses the resistor.

If you disconnect both b/w wires and measure to ground the one with power with the key on run goes to one terminal on the resistor and the other b/w goes to the + on coil. If you connect the powered wire to the resistor first you should then have power at the one at the coil. The g/w goes to the other side of the resistor. Both wires come from the ignition switch.

I don’t think there should be a wire directly from the resistor to the coil, power should be on the b/w to the resistor when the key is in the “run” position and on the g/w when the key is in the “start “. And of course power at the + wire on the coil with the key in either position. And these measurements are at the end of the wires disconnected. Will not read 12 volts if connected to the coil or resistor, it will be lower due to voltage loss through the system.

As well, have you confirmed that the points are fully closing and opening while you are cranking it?

You cannot use a meter to measure the high voltage coming out of the centre post on a coil, read what Yarb/ Zedhead are saying as to how to test it, they are trying to help you. Maybe study the pages it might help you.

A couple of photos of the rear quarters.

I don’t think so, from what I read online 1969-70 was the time auto manufacturers started moving away from lead and started using plastic filler. I am sure that Nissan as just using a known method to finish off a visible welded joint.

I was taught how to do lead work many years ago from a very skilled body man. You would never take a grinder to any lead, it is all done with a torch, wooden paddles for shaping and a body file for final smoothing. Shooting bits of lead all over your shop would be a nasty thing to do. Always remove it using a torch and good ventilation or a proper respirator.

This is the manual that inline6 refers to that is posted in the resource section.

What kind of gas are you using? I thought I read somewhere that the colortune does not work with ethanol gas.

I see three stacked vertically on my IPad, and as well very nice work.

This is a perfect replacement for the button or clip on the cover.

I uploaded this manual, hopefully it helps someone.

I would check the new ignition capacitor, I bought three from Rockauto and all three failed. Not the same way as yours, mine ran well for about a day and then started misfiring bad. Once I got one from Napa (made in Mexico) I never had another issue.

Manual is posted in the resources section.Sorry it’s in the knowledge base section.

I have this manual, it doesn’t help you with your shim problem but has lots of good info on how to set up a diff. I just have to figure out how to post it as each page is a single large jpg file.

I agree with Zedhead, I cut my tank in half and tig welded it back together with no problems. Once you cut it open there will be no issues with trapped fumes. I would be more concerned about any old lead lurking in the metal. Weld it in a open area or wear the proper respirator for lead fumes.

240 so no screen

To update my tank, it has not leaked at all during the last 10 years of use and the POR 15 internal coating has caused no issues.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34633-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks/#comments

are these close? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/191666801020?hash=item2ca03b497c:g:zsYAAOSwkQZbYf~1

The BC Z guys had a fundraiser for a local Search and Rescue organization and had a nice turnout. Lots of photos here. https://www.facebook.com/groups/BCZRegistry