240dkw

No you are just measuring between two different power supply wires that way. To complete a circuit you must go from the wires to ground. Remember to have the wire disconnected, because if the points are closed you will already have a path to ground and will not get a correct reading. And yes the two switch positions are Run and the spring return Start. You should get power on the second b/w wire in the run position if the powered b/w and g/w are hooked up to the resistor or when the key is in the start position as that bypasses the resistor.

If you disconnect both b/w wires and measure to ground the one with power with the key on run goes to one terminal on the resistor and the other b/w goes to the + on coil. If you connect the powered wire to the resistor first you should then have power at the one at the coil. The g/w goes to the other side of the resistor. Both wires come from the ignition switch.

I don’t think there should be a wire directly from the resistor to the coil, power should be on the b/w to the resistor when the key is in the “run” position and on the g/w when the key is in the “start “. And of course power at the + wire on the coil with the key in either position. And these measurements are at the end of the wires disconnected. Will not read 12 volts if connected to the coil or resistor, it will be lower due to voltage loss through the system.

As well, have you confirmed that the points are fully closing and opening while you are cranking it?

You cannot use a meter to measure the high voltage coming out of the centre post on a coil, read what Yarb/ Zedhead are saying as to how to test it, they are trying to help you. Maybe study the pages it might help you.

A couple of photos of the rear quarters.

I don’t think so, from what I read online 1969-70 was the time auto manufacturers started moving away from lead and started using plastic filler. I am sure that Nissan as just using a known method to finish off a visible welded joint.

I was taught how to do lead work many years ago from a very skilled body man. You would never take a grinder to any lead, it is all done with a torch, wooden paddles for shaping and a body file for final smoothing. Shooting bits of lead all over your shop would be a nasty thing to do. Always remove it using a torch and good ventilation or a proper respirator.

This is the manual that inline6 refers to that is posted in the resource section.

What kind of gas are you using? I thought I read somewhere that the colortune does not work with ethanol gas.

I see three stacked vertically on my IPad, and as well very nice work.

This is a perfect replacement for the button or clip on the cover.

I uploaded this manual, hopefully it helps someone.

I would check the new ignition capacitor, I bought three from Rockauto and all three failed. Not the same way as yours, mine ran well for about a day and then started misfiring bad. Once I got one from Napa (made in Mexico) I never had another issue.

Manual is posted in the resources section.Sorry it’s in the knowledge base section.

I have this manual, it doesn’t help you with your shim problem but has lots of good info on how to set up a diff. I just have to figure out how to post it as each page is a single large jpg file.

I agree with Zedhead, I cut my tank in half and tig welded it back together with no problems. Once you cut it open there will be no issues with trapped fumes. I would be more concerned about any old lead lurking in the metal. Weld it in a open area or wear the proper respirator for lead fumes.

240 so no screen

To update my tank, it has not leaked at all during the last 10 years of use and the POR 15 internal coating has caused no issues.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34633-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks/#comments

are these close? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/191666801020?hash=item2ca03b497c:g:zsYAAOSwkQZbYf~1

The BC Z guys had a fundraiser for a local Search and Rescue organization and had a nice turnout. Lots of photos here. https://www.facebook.com/groups/BCZRegistry

Here is the one I bought in 1984 and have not used yet. It is supplied by Interpart. The plastic pivots are a hard black material.

While at a car show took this photo of a really nice car in the parking lot of the hotel I was staying at. Ok maybe it’s my car.

So while out for a walk the other day and guy stops me and asks “are you the person with the 240”. He says he has a front bumper bar that he bought from the local dealer when they were getting rid of old stock in 1975, so I looked at it and bought it. It has never been installed and the chrome is in awesome condition. There is still a part number tag on it. Now to decide if I want to install it as my car has the rear one already.