TomoHawk

The fumes don't go into the crackcase. That would be dangerous. Instead the fumes, and any overflow from expansion, are collected and hopefully condensed in the evap. tank and returned to the fuel tank. I dunno why one would want to remove the evap. tank either, except to simplify things. The filler neck should be able to hold some overflow, if the tank is not too full, and recirculate some condensed fumes. I think I would rather eliminate the carbon cannister. cheers! ciao! gesundheit!

It's the same reason people will pay you $10 million a YEAR to play baseball or basketball, or the reason people will pay $25 to go see those millionaires! What a waste. That's why I watch sports on TV. FREE. $25 pays for cable for a whole month, or a bunch of pizzas & sodasfor the game, or enough gas for my Z for a day. ciao

Mine has the rivets. I think I will drill them out, then cover the holes with a stripe of a similar color. 3/8 wide? Those black ding strips are too 70's ugly! Too much for me, at least.

Those apps are kinda cool. I use a similar method to make timing stickers for the model boat engines, using millimeters for ease of calculations. The only problem is I have yet to find the timing gauge on my L28!

I have a new spring to fit into the driver's door (old one popped out or broke). Would it be difficult to install a spring without removing the hinge? thx.

You might even try patching in a 12V battery direct to the gauges or the dash harness, bypassing all the connectors, to see if the connectors are the problem.

I wish my 280Z had one of those to fix my mixture problem. Soot is practically dripping out of the tailpipe.

Yeah, that's the thing I got. It has a black plastic sleeve going inside, with what 'feels like' a cable inside it. The wiring diagram shows something labelled "Amp."

Why? Are you just replacing it, or something else?

I suppose you could use a dimmer rheostat. You'd have to bodge it in there. It might even be mounted to the bracket. Just the control rod has to be long enough to stick out. (about 15cm, I think).

Using a brighter bulb isn't going to make things easier to see. The real probblem is in the connectors and wiring. Connectors are all corroded and that means resistance and less voltage, which is what really makes the 12V bulbs brighter. This problem impacts every circuit in the car from the dome light to the fuel level gauge to the fuel injection system (on 280Zs). An old dimmer switch might be the problem. You could bypass it by pulling off the connector on the back and shunting the two pins. There are several, if not many, people here working on improving voltage and current flow through the wiring. I have some secret rust-potion on order and I will be trying it .

It sounds likethe muffler guy may have disconnected something needed to run well.

How much would the timing chain slip? Is that tensioner-thingy or the chain itself supposed to wear oout? thx

While on the subject, what about replacing the factory speedo with another one? Do you have to declare anything to DMV or any thing?

I'm full of it. Rob.

I think you should check this out: http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/reviving/

I knew there had to be a speed sensor in there someplace. It probably does connect to the F.I. and the BCDD. O-L.... I thought I could simplify things.

If you have those universal battery clampson there, get rid of them. They are not the best thing; not too efficient & you will get voltage loss. Find yourself a battery place and have them make you a new set of cables.

After soaking with the GOO Gone, use a heatgun/hir dryer to warm the decal & soften tyhe glue even more. Don't burn the paint

I think there's a cable connecting it to the inside, but it has wires on it too. I think it might be the things that controls the BCDD.

I picked up a l'ike-new' speedo off eBay and I saw a little box on the back with wires coming out of it. What's that for? thx

When I got my 280Z, I tried using the engine cleaner foam and apparently got some water where it shouldn't have been. I left it to dry a couple days and it started working. Some sun and warm air could've helped.

The idea was to clean up the engine. All that's left would be the intake, headers, dizzy, and injectors/ injector rail. At the least I would like to remove the EGR valve. I suppose I could do one at a time, and see if it's good or bad, then replace it . Well, it runs and I got more important fixes like the headlights. That's why I do the reasearch & keep notes, thx

It's too bad you can't get the parts to convert the Z auto trans to a manual valve body. You might be able to convert a shifter.

I have a "buzzer probe" for such occasions. Instead of buying new bulbs and things, you just hook up the buzzer, especially, if you are working alone. Just a cheapo buzzer from Radio shack, glue it to a tongue depressor/stick. One wire with alligator clip for ground and one with with a pin/nail for probing. Really helped when I was fixing the horns!!