TomoHawk

It looks like I bought my car froim the wrong place! I could have gone to Palm Springs (not too far from where I got my car) and bought a car that was in MUCH better condition, then drive it home!

Irish League? I don't care for open-wheel cars because I see too many wheels getting broken off. Or climing over each other. Those things (especially F-1) are purpose-built, so I don't care for that either, even though the early cars were open- wheel designs. Only the select few get to drive those- coupes are open to anybody. As long as they have to make both left andright-hand turns. I think it takes real talent to make turns in both directions. Circle track stuff makes me dizzy!

The 8% premium goes down with the final price. I think after 300,000 , there is no premium.

I think it's more like they don't want to do any thinking- just make the sale. Because if they get you the part they think you want, it might not be what YOU were thinking of and have to take it back, get another one... It helps me to know where to start. thx

No worries! I just feel kinda wierd sometimes because I usually get these peculiar problems. Good thing the info is something wverybody can use! But I DO see a problem that these pieces will be difficult, if not impossible, to get new or reproduction. Just get yours out, clean off all the junk, and copy the pattern onto some rubber matting, no? One less problem to work on now...

I was going to get a shifter from a newer Escort last summer, but it looked way to hard to do it without getting under there. the JY has all the cars on the ground... So maybe I can call around to see if there's a JY with the shifter already out. The problem is JYs all want a SPECIFIC model & year, so can you suggest one? You know I'm talking about a manual trans shifter , not automatic. thx

I mean used in any car they got now.

Mine is a 78 too. I didn't notice the bolts because of all the undercoatring :devious: I'll keep it in mind if/when I get my car back (c. mid-April) thx.

Than you, Steven! I really didn't want to stir up all the trouble, but I really thought the piece was MUCH smaller, to cover the area behind the headlamp., so you could get at the lamp's plug. Do you think that I could just cut/remove the front part, to get at the headlamp wiring, then make a new piece to stick in there (Like a piece of rubber "welcome mat")? Mr. brandy- It looks to me like your picture is of the inner fenderwell, which attaches to the side of the unibody; I remember that from my last 280. Disclaimer: I don't usually make a big thing about stuff, but the easy things I can find using the SEARCH FEATURE!

Which car(s) have manual shifters that use cales instead of rods? thx

You mean "old-fashioned sports car," not 'true sports car.... No reason that a "sports car" HAS to have a manual-shift transmission. But you can have that opinion and preference.

What beandip said...

You'd be better off using a normal H4 headlamp and a round neon or a ring of leds around the headlamp.

only certain transmissions have the ability to use a lockup torque converter, so all you got is a regular one. Even a higher stall speed converter will cost almost as much as a trans swap.

What's it for? what information is on it? thx

Besides theVIN plate ( base of windhield), what other ID numbers, tags, or plates can you find around the S30 car? what iinformation is on each? thx.

But there IS some electronics. HID uses a ballast transformer or something to get make the high-voltage arc to light the bulb. then it should have three wires for the low & high beam, ground.

that guy obviusly doesn't know how to install am auto trans properly.

So I would want a converter with a slightly lesser stall speed to make a better 'connection' between the flywheel & trans, so the rpm should come down some ( a little) at speen in the highway (65 mph) That would be nice. I'm going for a little more mpg so I can go places without dsriving from gas station to gas station. 17 gal x 25 mg =425 miles. 3 fill-ups gets me to FL!

Where do you hide all the electronics for these lights on a Z?

V8 engines sometimes get vapore lock because the carb is too close to the intake manifold and the guel in the carb boils. So they put a non-heat-conducting spacer under the carb to keep it a little cooler. If you remove the webbing from the intake for the fuel-inject Z, would heat from the exhaust affect the injectors? thx.

wow, another $.0002 comment... The point is a good one. No matter what way you like your Zed, or what way you customize it, everybody here should accept it for what it is is, and not turn up their nose. As long as you do the work right, and don't paint it with paisleys.... :sick:

Do you mean you can use a low stall speed converter to act like an overdrive of sorts? If it's too low, you would stall the engine waiting at a traffic light, but then, you'd be turning 2000 rpm @ 55 mph...Not a bad idea if you got the torque to start off the line. If you had a manual valve body, what shifter would you use? Do you think there is an auto shifter with something like a 4-speed gate pattern? Cool idea.

I can relate to what's going on. My head got clobbered when I was about her age, and I spent 4 months in the hospital, with everybody telling me, "You won't be able to do XXXX any more...." I spent 2 years in a wheelchair, and another year learning how to walk really bad; people at work( or just about anywhere) were afraid to have me there, and I ended up losing that job. Also had my fiancee run off because she couldn't handle the pressure of being engaged to a "handicapped guy." People expected her to quit everything to spend every minute helping me work my arm & fingers. You could say my life had ended or I lost evberything good about myself- talent ,smarts, & athletic ability. But I still got you Bozos "equal opprtunity annoyers" After 15 years, I walk fair, got some control over my arm, but still not my fingers- I get to drive automatics now. Best wishes from Tomo.

I think I would suggest fixing them by first blasting off any undercoating, then glueing on a layer of something like limoleum over the wholething to make it uniform. Otherwise, just blast and possibly even a layer of rhino lining material. Obviously, the best solution would be to make exact copies in EPOXY KEVLAR, for best flexibility & burability. But thanks for finally figuring out what part (i think) I'm talking about ! I believe those are different pieces from in tinner fender things screwed to the unibody. Just still can't figiure out how to my arm in that little wire hole to get at the headlight plug to clean it. I think I will end up cutting a big hole.