TomoHawk

Some replies are due to hormones, obiously, but it's coming to the point whewre the differnce between a manual or auto shift transmission is the third pedal under the dash, and the shift pattern (but I'm doing something about the latter). Automatics are becomming just as good as manuals in the MPG department, which is why most new cars come with automatics now. there is also some danger associated with the manual shift trans. Where I live, there are a few hilly roads with traffic lights part way up, and occasionally you'll hear of somebody that couldn't hit it right and collided with theperson behind- especially in winter. You could always go with a manual vave body, if you like changing the gears constantly. Also, most of the Street Rods I see now have autos, although some with drag shifters.

My taillight harness wires are getting a case of the dreaded blackwire disease. It's a 78 280Z, so I will wanto get a new one. Will a ZX taillight harness fit? Can I get a new or like-new one somewhere besides eBay? thx.

Interesting idea... Somehow you could rig up an old carb, but remove everything but the throats & butterflies, then screw in 4 or 6 smaller injectors (using the stock F.I. computer) to work like a carb. You'd have to bypass the AFM somehow, so the computer gets the air flow data from the throttle linkage position instead of the flapper.

Is there anywhere to get the covers for the headlamps that go inside the fender? On a 280Z? thx.

Before you finalize a price, make sure you give all the rubber stuff a good squeeze or tuig tosee if it will fall apart. You should be able to test drive the car & have a mech check it over quick. Major repairs can influence the selling price.

I'm from the 60s. I'd have to ask my mom where I was when they shot JFK.

I worked on a nuclear-grade antisieze for a while. I remember the only requirement was that it was free of chlorine. Don't remember what color it was. I've always used copper for high-temp. and aluminum for general use.

OIL? I wouldthink that it would wash off after so long. The antisieze would be stronger, more effective than the oil, and last longer. But do you prefer Aluminum, copper, or graphite antisieze? My voite is for Aluminum.

Oh-- I wouldn't suggest sitting on the arm of the wrench to turn it. I once broke 2 studs using a dogleg wrench because I didn't have a cross wrench and I wasn't turning the wrench equally on both ends.. The pipe idea should be OK, as long as you twist it equally on both ends.

Is it adviseable to use antiseize on wheel nuts? You wouldn't want to make it easy for them to come off. Could you clean the threads with a die before using antisieze or putting the nuts back on? Also, you can get a 12V impact wrench at harbor freight or other stores Vicky- your suggestion wasn't useless. Maybe just needs some 'development.' Remember, BIG ideas start as small ones...

Maybe it would be enough to make a list of your sources and put that file on the main list page.

It looks to me that the rear bar in the picture is just that. there are brackets that you will bolt to the top of the strut, and probably some to the floor near the diff frame. Not sure tho.

To support my and the recent statements about the identity being in question, I'll quoite from the VRJ article, where the author himself tells that there is no psirive proof which car is which: "It has to be said at the outset that these were rally cars, and they were damaged, repaired, written off, rebodied, had new chassis, had chassis plates and registration numbers switched and put on new cars, so keeping track of them was not the art form it is today, though why anyone would want to today is another question." Like Alan, Chris, I, et al, have recently said, that with all the new evidence, these older cars can become somewhat ambiguous. Wich is why the Author from VRJ had to rely on the words from the expert of Nissan Italia. (who could possibly be making things up himself!) I typed up the rally article because the pring of my mag was hard to read... rally article.txt

I browsed your collection of videos.... It's interesting, except for thre one 240Z avi that only had sound. O-L I'll go browse some more later. THX.

After reading the article (thanks Chris), I'm surprised to NOT hear someone from VRJ say that since the cars had numerous body cchanges/replacements, reg. plates swtiched, etc., that you can't just make a claim about any car to be this or that. You'd need to go deeper and check the chassis number, etc., before you can be totally certain which "car" is which.

oooooo--whee! Now THAT's what I call a strut bar (system)! You can see that it keeps things from moving in just about any direction. Not your average "Monte Carlo" bar, too. I always knew those Monte Carlos wren't that good. What is there that goes in the back?

NBo problems there. I uusually don't get much time away from my gf and her fam damily... they usually have all my time planned for me.

I got some friends down there. One by USF and other in Apollo Beach. I should give you a call next time I go there. As long as your boyfriend don't answer the phone :classic:

is there a good replacement for the "rivets" that hold the arm linkage together? I think I might take mine apart to totally recondition them. In the Spring?

You should try this web page: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html It tells you all about it.

I had something l ike that happen last summer. Turn signals quit one day after I cleaned the interior. I had a service guy chase it down after I worked on it for a day. It turned out to be one of the connectors that wasn't connected right because of the corrosion. the service guy cleaned the connector some, andput it back together the right way. My headlights & turn signals were netter & brighter after that! We need to work on this connector-corrosion thing and figure out a (sure-fire) way to fix them (connectors) good enough to keep them from smoking, and the car from flaming. It'll increase your insurance value, as well as your own safety and makethe car better overall.

Oh yeah-- check your fuses first. I think those things might be on separate circuits. Then go to eBay or a swap meet & get yourself an owner's manual and a Haynes repair book, then the factory repair manual.

I was going to suggest that you could use a rubber grommet in there (maybe) of the sufficent size. Otherwise, check McMaster.com for bushings that might work for you.

the catalyst light tells you the catalytic converter is running REAL HOT- there's a temperature probe in there. Probably because the engine isn't running right- like it's way lean or something. To help with your electrical problem, you can download a wiring diagram & print it: http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom/ferrari.html Just above the Gallery link. It's for a 1978 280Z tho. You should probably start by back-tracing the power wires from the radio. I would cut them totally off, restoringthe original car wires, and I would think things should go back to normal. Double check things first, before cutting, in case I might be wrong...

Me too. It means less metal to clean & polish, more room to work, it'll stay cooler & I might even blast the word "Ferrari" on the intake & rocker box! Wait-- If there aren't enough gadets & thingys on the engine, do you think the "Emmissions Police" will get suspicious?