TomoHawk

My condolences too. James was a cool guy. Does anybody happen to know how many posts he had?

AtuoZone we got, but not the O'Reilly's. I'll check tomorrow. I read that it smokes up the place when you first run it in there?

Has anybody tried using "top engine cleaner" to decarbonixe an engine? that's what it's for, right? To de-carbonize? Also, where is a good place to get some. the local NAPA didn't have any. thx

No,Oldsmobubble aint dead.... They're just going to convert the plant to make Z cars!! Seriously..... I bet theyre going to make hybrid cars (just not ZED hybrids:cry: )

Take a good digital picture, then have it printed to a vinyl sticker.

Bingo.... Sounds like the classic case of diff mount being worn See ZGarage Site: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html

here's a link: http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom/Files/WIRING.TIF

I have one for a 78 280Z on my website. Check the car page.

Sorry, but I don't think the Haynes repair book will help you with the radio. even if it had radio info, it would be for the OEM unit. All you should need to start is a good wiring diagram.

can I boorrow $250,000 from you?

I kind of agree with Vicky... the new T-Bird is OK, but it's still just a CAR, and it's not "different" enough to stand out from other late models. If it was a LOT more like the original style T-Bird, it would be a big hit- like the Ford GT (it's $150,000!!??) To me, it's the same thing with the 350Z. It's not as "unique" as the HS30 cars. More like just a new model with an old name.

rebirth yeah-- But in the wrong direction.

Dude-- You should go to the Ppioneer website and download the owner's manual. that simple.

a rotary saw(dremel) worked best for me. then file/sand the edges to suit. Usually on the modern radios, one power wire is for the amps & receiver, the other for clock/memory. Memory wire being always HOT, but low current (1 amp). read your info papers, it should tell you what you need.

the receiver ion my 290Z is connected to the factory plug, but I could only figure out the one wire to the RH speaker. It might be easier to just run speaker wires straight from the receiver, and I think you can get power off the factury plug. Don't bother with the radio unless you have everything else working first.

Got some bad news, dudes.... I took my chrome pieces over to the car ( at body shop) and compared it to the ones on the car. MUCH LONGER! BUT, the body shop guys "said" it was normal, and that you need to remove the plastic filler plugs on the ends, trim to length, then replace the plugs. I assumed they would be the same length, since you order them for each series car. Still need to find out which aftermarket rubber will fit, tho.

No you don't, Ed.... It would make you cry

Nice moustache bar kats. Good job remarking.

Hey guys.... Can we get this discussion back on topic? You can talk physics, but keep it related to the CAI stuff. thx. . . . . (same to you...) :classic:

the CAI works with the intake, etc. so the air flows more freely- hence the deeper dound. It also depends on a free-flowing take and the rest. the sharp bends in the intake and etc. slow the flow and increase the pitch. :disappoin

So then would you calculate the size of the tube to go with the area of the exhaust port(s)? You gotta avoid constrictions for free flow.

When you plan the tube, make sure the inlet is someplace where you get COLD AIR, like NOT behind the radiator. Most cars get the cold air from inside the fender or behind the headlights, so keep that in mind. Don't go to "just any" muffler shop! You need to find a muffler shop that can bend the tubing with a mandrel bender; most use a crush-bender, which puts constriction on the bend, and it looks crappy. Then the exhaust guy could bend the tube to fit under the hood & around any stuff to go where it should.

You got to be kidding! That's almost double! You must be in a really bad area, or they think you'll drive it like an lunatic! Where do you park it?

After removing the lock, cover the hole with a flap and just reach in with your finger to push the latch arm and unlock. I replace my lock with a trunk lock from an MGA. Looks much better and has a finger pull.

I bet the backing plate was just cut presicely to fit around the caliper. Maybe grind off any projections, too. The caliper bracket should fit without removing the backing plate. Unless the caliper was attached to the backing plate??