TomoHawk

I can confirm the bad installs those "professional" installers do. I took my car to one, becauuse they had a sale on JVC car stereos, and I even gave them a copy of the wiring diagram for the 280Z radio harness, and I found it crumpled on the floor later. The idiot actally wired the radio into the HEATER and the HAZARD switch wiring! I didn't findout until that winter when I took the radio out for torage. He didn't even use crimped connectors as I ordered; he used those cheap plastic snap-things. I tore the whole thing out myself later that winter and wired the radio correctly into the radio harness, soldered the places where the plastic taps cut the wire and covered the joints with shrink-tube. Those (discount) professionals don't care about your classic car with the traditional wiring. They just want to get your car out the door so they can do the new car with the easy wiring job that's already done- they just plug the radio into the car and collect payment. I wonder if they actually know anything about car electrics, besides what the installation paper says. thxZ

That's only if you get the hose already clamped/crimped onto the injector. Mine didn't have the hose or the fitting on the injectors when I got them.

No clamp!??

I don't have a rollbar or anything else in my car, so my camera goes on the windscreen.

My hoses began splitting just after the PO left with his trailer after delivery. I used a knife when I did my hoses, and removed the entire fuel rail with no problem. I first cut at the top of the injectors to get the whole thing off, the cut away what was left. I did all the hoses at once. Remember to use only 8mm fuel injection hose, and fuel injection clamps. thxZ

What are you using for your recording? I have a creative labs laptop webcam (1.3MP, 800x600video @15fps). I wanted to use a laptop computer on the passenger seat (while touring, not [competition]) I'd rest the laptop in a cutout in a thick foam sheet. We haven't figured out how to use a pocket PC with a UB webcam yet. the goal is to make a time-lapse video, with a picture about every 0.1 or 0.3 second, but normal video is also available. I'd probably need a USB extension cable. I wonder if I should've gotten the auto-focus camera instead (we will see.) With the CB radio in the ashtray (the GPS stays in the storage box for (emergencies), the driver's area feels fairly busy! :laugh: Fortunately, I don't drink coffee while driving the twisties. thxZ

Good advice. My initial goal for the camera is for recording things while touring. If the mount works out, I'll beef it up to competition standards.

I bought one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40993 It can hold 15 LBs. It's not as substanstial as the double cupped handle thing, but I think I can screw a bracket to the arm on this one with some tiny screws. thxZ

Hey- could you put a spring on the bolts to act as a damper to the mount swinging? One twist around the bolt could be enough. thxZ

With a 125 LBs. holding capacity, it ought to hold a little camera. The big thing with that one is the 5-inch suction cups. I went to the store right after I posted that other message, but someone had bough every one in stock! thxZ

That is great, until I took mine out last week and discovered the plug was broken. Hint: check out your emergency stuff occasionally.

I drove the Ohio Tail of the Dragon tour with my club. 450 miles of tight, twisty roads, :laugh:

There was a similar question about Datsun's name change a couple weeks ago. The (woman) contestant didn't get the answer.

I have a can of air for an airbrush, but could it inflate a tire? It's only about 10 for a new can. You'd need an adapter for the top to connect to the tire's valve. thxZ

Would something like this work? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46134 It's a Dual Cup Suction Lifter and the flat handle looks liks a good surface to bolt your camera arm to. It supports up to 125 LBS. and it claims you can pull dents! It would mount at the top or the passenger side of the windscreen. Other ideas I've had for a camera/GPS/computer mount is a bracket that bolts to the frame behind the vent panel, which requires a modded vent panel. or a small bracket that attaches to the metal puck (which is permanently glued) on the windsreen like the rearview mirror, but elsewhere on the windscreen. thxZ

I tred a second polishing and it seems to be better than before. I used the same mthod as last time, but did the polishing even more carefully to overlap the lines well, go to the edges, and keep going until all the polish was gone. Then a rub with the microfibre and some glass cleaner. It even started raining after I finished, so I drove around a little. After the windscreen was pretty much wet with droplets, I tried the wipers, and it was a night-and-day difference from before. With only 1 pass of the wipers, the glass was clean and even looked squeaky-dry. The fine scratches from the wipers were not noticeable. Even the little pits seem less noticeable. I will only need to leave the car out overnight to get some dew, and then see if I can clear the glass and drive into the low sun without being blinded by glare. There are definitely no water spots on the glass. thxZ

Well, So far I tried the No.7 polishing liquid (Meguiars) and it helped to get the glass more transparent with less glare at night. first I cleaned the Rain-X off with some strong solvent, then alcohol, then glass cleaner. I used a 4-inch polishing wheel on a drill motor to polish, holding the drill nearly vertical to the glass and pishing with a little pressure until the polish was gone and the glass came out clear. Then I removed the residue with glass cleaner. But when I went out in the morning, there was much dew on the windscreen, and after trying to dry it with a chamois, I was almost blinded by the glare when I drove into the morning sun. I literally had my head out the window and drove slowly to the barn so I could pack the car for a short trip. After the window was completely dry from dew, it was much better, but the 10^8 tiny pits or marks still remain. That vintage glass doesn't seem to be holding up on the streets & highways. It would be a great deal if there was a coating you could put on the glass to fill the tiny pits and restore the transparency in the low-sun times of day, namely sunrise and sunset. At about $1000 for a new windscreen, I'd still try a little more polishing, or even a homebrew coating. I'm considering coating the glass with an extra-hard polyurethane floor coating. thxZ

There is a place called Rod's Datsun parts (http://www.rodsdatsun.com) in San Jose. He would probably have what you need. Get some Datsun T-shirts too. thxZ

It was the ignition wires. I tried the handheld CB in the new car and it was quiet except for some static like noise, and it picked up noise from the seatbelt buzzer, fuel pump and even the power window motors! I think that was because of the cheap radio. Then I swapped the Bosch wires on the Z, and tried the CB in there. It was just as quiet, but you could hear the Z's seatbelt buzzer again. Reception seems to be improved too, as I tested that by driving a 1mile loop while talking to a friend. I will look into a better type of handheld for the future. I might still put the noise supresor on the one 12V juck to have a very quiet power source for digital stuff like a laptop. rhxZ for the discussion.

I need some Datsun decals/magnets for autocrossing. My 4 x 2 foot banner wouldn't hold up for autocross.

That ought to look interesting in a Z...

It's just a simple SPDT switch that needs to be spliced into the steering column wiring. I'd like to put one on my car too, because I like to drive right-handed. It'd be great to signal lane changes without getting your other arm off the door. What happened with your factory wiring? IMO, it would be more difficult to rewire the car than to correct the factory wring and/or add an extra control switch. I once saw a flasher unit that played a song (Love Me Tender) because you can get rather oblivious to the clicking of the OE stuff. Please keep us informed if your progress. thxZ

I think I'll put the Bosch wires back on. I don't remember having cb noise before.

It's the Beck-Arnley Brand from Autozone, I think. There isn't any noise on the stereo, but that could be another thing. I'll go to NAPA and get some regular stuff. Or is BD an appropriate source for ignition wires? thxZ A document from Beck-Arnly I just found on my wires: http://www.beckarnley.com/marketing/ignition%20wire%20sets.pdf

Oddly, my spark plugs are currently NGK BPR5ES and the wires are Beck-Arnley Mag cores... So, after putting on some noise caps on the alternator and coil, I still have the radio noise on my CB.