Marty Rogan

When it died, did you check to see if you were getting gas? Spark? What kind of fuel regulator are you using? IF it's the type with a movable dial on the top, I have heard they can sometimes stick. Move the dial min to max a couple of times. Also 7 PSI is way too high for carbs. You only need about 3 PSI, and never more than 5 PSI. Sounds like the carbs need adjusting too. You want to see a nice tan color on the plugs. Just some thoughts. Marty

I had a similar problem once. You could turn the key to start and it would start fine. As soon as you let go of the key once it started, it would immediately die. If you started the car and did not let the key go all the way back to the run position, it would stay running. I replaced the ballast resistor and it was fine after that. Try holding the key just off the run position and see if it keeps running. If it does, I would replacet the resistor. Marty

I checked the u-joints and bolts. Everything feels tight with no play at all. No metal in the oil either. Keep the ideas coming. Marty

I bought their SCCA approved roll bar. It does have a harness bar that goes behind the seat and is welded to the diagonal bar. The street version doesn't have a harness bar. I believe it is made by AutoPower. The quality is good and I am pretty happy with it. Marty

I saw that one a while ago. If a lot costs $675K, I would hate to see what the houses cost, ! I would bet there will be a bounch of Ferrari's, Lambo's and Porches' driven by peope that don't know how to drive them. One of our local car dealer's held a track day at the Autobahn. http://www.autobahncountryclub.net/ I got invited through the Windy City Z Club. They own a Nissan dealership, as well as about 8-9 others, including one that sells Ferrai's, Lambo's and other exotics. My yellow 240Z was the only Z Car that showed up and was by far the cheapest car there. The people were friendly and a lot of them came by to see and talk about the Z. The guy with the 911 came with his own 2 man pit crew. The mechanics were pretty impressed with the old Z and gave it many compliments. Most of the guys there had more money than talent. The owner's son showed up with full race Ferrari and a Lotus. Clearly, he knew what to do with them. It was a real blast passing Ferrari's and Porche's. Funny, I never got invited back, !!! Marty

This is an issue with my '71 with an '83 L28 and '83 5 spd installed. I had a combination of issues happen while on the track at Road America. First, I think the fuel regulator started to go bad. I lost power and died. Had to get flat towed in. While diagnosing the no fuel problem, I got the car running again. Then when I was revving the engine, I started to get a real severe vibration through the stick shift. There was also a bad noise coming from the back of the engine. I could not tell if it was coming from the engine, the tranny or the clutch. The only thing that I could think of that could have hurt something was that I messed up a down shift and it revved pretty hard against the clutch once. It seemed like I smelled some clutch material for a brief time after that, but it seemed to shift and drive wihout problem for a long time before the fuel issue cropped up. At that point I decided to call it a day and limp home. I didn't get very far. The vibration got worse at 3,000 RPM or when I went above 60 MPH. I had to leave the car and come back the next day with a trailer. Not knowing where the problem was and not having time to deal with it, I decided to drop it off at a Z Shop as long as I had it on a trailer. He thought it was a clutch problem. Once he took it apart, he found that the ring of weights on the CenterForce II clutch had slipped to one side. This seemed to make sense, that if the weights were off center, that it would cause a vibration. I got the car back today. It still has a severe vibration that comes right up the shift lever. He thought it was the shift knob causing it. But I took it completely off and it still vibrates, so that can't be it. At this point I am starting to think some is wrong with the trans. Anybody got any ideas what would cause such a vibration through the shift lever? TIA, Marty

Nice pictures! Looks like you are having some fun. Seems like Cindy likes to pass Mustangs, ! Marty

The Autozone link does not work. The Z Store kit appears to be the non-vented rotor set up, which is not as wide as the vented rotor calipers. You have not said what wheels you do have have. All I can tell you is that if you go with the vented calipers (wide ones) and have wheels with a flat center section, they will rub. The Panasports cleared because the spokes bow outward. Rewinds also rub, but you can grind down the caliper to gain enough clearance. Good luck! Marty

If I were you, I would go with the Toyota 4x4 conversion for the front, with braided brake lines. Most of the braking is done up front anyway. The rear drums are adequate even at the track. I have used that set up with the vented rotors at the track for 3-4 years with outstanding results. The vented rotor set up is very wide though, so it may not fit under your wheels, depending on what you have. I know they fit under Panasports. The pads also make a big difference. I have been using Axxis Utltimate, a Kevlar/ceramic combination. Marty

I have one of those too, except the clips that attach it to the under-side of the hood are missing. If you have those clips and were going to give it away, I could use the clips. Ugly as they may be, they do stop rock chips and bug splatter on those long trips Marty

I am not familiar with that kit, however, I have a question on the intended use for your car first. Will this car be driven on the street or on the track? For a street car, the kit should be fine. However, for a track car you could do better. I would go with vented disk in the front. Definitely stay away from slotted and cross drilled rotors. Under the extreme heat generated at the track, the rotors can crack. I saw one case on a Z06 Vette, where the rotor actually exploded when he was going into the braking zone. It pulled the car into a wall and scattered bits and pieces of the car all throughout the corner. The carnage tore off the whole left side of the car. Luckily the driver got off with a mild concussion. Moral of the story, be sure the upgrade is right for the application. Marty

That is horrible news. 43 is much too young . I was wondering why we had not heard from them in a long time. Our thoughts and prayers go out to Vickie and her family. Marty

Great project! As far as I know, there is no source for these. I know a lot of us need these. Unfortuantely, I don't know what they are made of either. Like Carl and Beandip said, it's probably some type of oil resistant rubber, maybe synthetic. Marty

Good stuff to know. Thanks John. I'll look for something a little more main stream. Marty

I don't really know much about them, other than I want one, !!! If you decide not to use it, I'll buy it from you. Marty

I used stainless steel band clamps from Summit Racing The work great and allow you to take it apart when needed. Marty

Very nice video Dave! I love to Vette's bowing to the Z and pointing you by! I have my first track day of the year on April 15th. Can't wait to try out my new DOT race tires. Cheers, Marty

He does use some pretty slick wording in his advertising: "There was one full blown race car built for the street and the car you see here." Apparently, this isn't the "full blown race car for the street". It is still interesting as a nice condition 510, but I doubt it is worth much more than its current bid. Marty

Looks really interesting. So you think this is the real deal? Is Carl going to start his own BRE collection, ! Marty