Bruce Palmer

From what I can tell you are pretty complete. You can compare to some of the photos on our web site and/or buy the JUST SUs dvd and follow it through the process. we can come up with any of the litle pieces you may be missing. PT Barnum said something about you'll be able to sell the 4 barrel set up.

Roger Schmidt is one of the last of the good guys.

Thus endeth the lesson about why changing all those thingies on an old car is a good thing..... unless of course one enjoys standing along side the road looking for a safe place to stash ones ride.

Talk about tire life in minutes!! Yes sir I have two tires I'd like to warranty....... Man did a monster job of driving. don't know that he touched a thing.

Try www.rodsdatsuns.com in the bay area of CA

Stuff an old sweat sock in the secondaries on that 4 barrel. There is a reason NISSAN went with the Hitachis when they designed the Z.

If it isn't broken....... Take the cash and run like heck!!

Mike, That's almost like the guy who said "except for three handles and two heads, I've had that ax for 50 years"...... I've got a 40 something year old pair of Birkenstocks that are nearly that bad. I would be surprised if valve seats would stay put for 400K.

That's too funny..... the guy must be a frustrated body man!! That's a body man's timetable. His floor space must not cost him anything.

O-ring kit? How (other than price) would that differ from the O-ring at the hardware store for $.39. What Leonard said, go buy a new O-ring and gently intall paying particular attention to avoiding those sharp edge. Cheers

While you are waiting to identify a solution, when you shut the car off leave it in gear with one foot on the brake while letting out the clutch. This will stop the engine from contiuing to turn over. Extended and unattended dieseling will break ring lands on the pistons resulting "diesel" owner being one each unhappy camper.....

The answer as stated several times here is cheap horsepower, but there is another factor involved. Figure the cost to go thru a 2.4 and a 2.8 to be a push, so with the 2.8 you get a finite amount of HP and torque in a LOW stressed package. To duplicate that HP and torque with a 2.4 it'll run at a higher degree of stress to produce the same amount of work. i.e. closer to the ragged edge of destruction. To make the machine work changes to turbo-ize an engine that'll live, isn't cheap either. With our crappy gas today, low stress is good.

If you can keep a Z alive and together on the Oregon coast, we'll put you in for a big ATTABOY.

The Pre run is done. We had 8 vehicles and about a dozen folks and SUNSHINE. Don't think that wasn't a treat. We have laid out a straight forward route and will be providing pilot cars through out the group so map reading won't be a chore and we can all enjoy the scenery and driving experience. If you have concerns about not having done fun runs, this one is put together for you so c'mon out and join the fun. Julie will be posting details at www.datsunsnw.org shortly.

Any idea what caused the wire burn out? Should fix whatever caused that first. I'd say any auto electric shop could do the job. Same with the exhaust. Most any exhaust shop worth their salt could fix you up.

Yeh 2 liters are strong runners. However, a friend of ours here lunched a timing chain on his going to Shasta several years ago and parts alone were $850 to him and he's in the parts biz.

Roadsters are a monumental undertaking price wise. Parts are very spendy and always have been. So if you see a done roadster with a high price tag, it's because someone has already done the "meltdown" doing it.

Chris, What's the mileage? Sounds like a real find if that's all it needs. Carbs, are they round top or flat top? These guys here wont let you get away with anything without pictures. Welcome to the board. Good group here.

With the price of petrol, that you're willing to join us all the way from Ballard is truely an unexpected pleasure. C'mon. We are heading out this Saturday morning to lay out a route which should include "some" covered bridges. Seems there are several who think going on the pre-run will be more fun than cleaning the garage or some such. And yes the Spruce Goose is awsome!! Plus there is a ton of other aviation history there on display. All paid for with CIA dollars...... Nyuck nyuck

I'm putting it together, it's the 12th..... The website will get changed. Cheers

Time to blow off the mid winter stink!! Territory will be Salem Oregon and surrounding area. Datsuns Northwest is hosting their annual mid-winter fun run on Saturday the 12th of Feb. We will end up at the Silver Falls Conference Center for lunch and a club meeting, the first of '11. Lunch will set you back $8.50. Meeting will be held around their big old rock fireplace and they are setting aside their big parking lot for "Show Off Parking". Prospective new members come take a look. $24/year dues and this is the group that puts on Datsun Driving Canby Fun in June. Check www.datsunsnw.org for details re: start time and place.

Jessi, After sitting for all that time, the fuel system will most certainly need to be chased to rid it of all the varnish and sludge that has accumulated in the tank and lines. The brake and clutch hydraulics will need to be bled, at least, if not replaced entirely. Pitting in the cylinders and subsequent loss of stopping power will leave you standing along side a tree somewhere if not worse. Rubber brake and clutch lines are probably dried out to the point they are not safe. Which carbs are on the car, flat tops or round top? While doing all this work I wouldn't even worry about the engine. Doing a sensible startup procedure it may run fine. L motors are pretty tough. I'd definitely spend the money on a rebuilt distributor though. Anything rubber on the car will more than likely need replacing. Belts, hoses, suspension bushings and boots. Oh, and wheel bearings cleaned and repacked, U-joints same, stuts cartridges and shocks check. Sitting idle can be harder on some of this stuff than being driven daily. You have loooooots of time to look for wheels.... Make lists and keep jobs seperated or it will look overwhelming. One thing at a time, one thing at a time. Mark and bag stuff as it comes off. Look at this deal like the "free kitten" offers you see every spring. Doing the work your self will be great experience and you are getting into it right. It's all outflow from here. Hope it turns out to be worthwhile to take on......

Still waiting to hear back from the owner. Apparently telephone challenged or something. And no, I've crawled on my last airplane (commercial at keast) ever..... A train ride would be nice south to north though. PM or call me with a phone number and I'll call you as soon as I hook up with the owner.

We go thru a transmission parts warehouse in Portland. Full kit cost like $180. If you can go thru it yourself with this little investment I can't imagine why you'd buy someone elses half worn out box. I'll bet there are tranny parts suppliers in AZ. Let your fingers do the walking....

So safe to assume that if this block is from a normally aspirated version the compression ratio would be higher than the turbo motor would have been? The SU setup is a bolt on just as the "big boy" 2 barrel setup was. And runs the 2.8 just fine. Shameless plug for us..... Compression check is definitely in order. Is the oil showing any indication of water in it? With the engine running is there any evidence of excess pressure build up in the radiator. When head gaskets go wierd things can happen in unusual places more than just coolant out the tail pipe.