Bruce Palmer

An awful lot of automotive history in that photo. It's really interesting to read the individual histories of each vehicle across the bottom...... Thanks for digging that up.

Anyone have the Dream Garage image in their computer that could be put up here?? There are enough new Datsun owners here who would love to see apiece from NISSAN's hay day......

Tommy, I fail to see the problem. You moonshiners down there run with no lights at night anyway, don't ya? Robert Mitchum where are ya when we really need ya? Nyuck nyuck

I'm leaning toward timing too far advanced and the carbs being lean, which is why things are okay when the choke is pulled on, richening things up. Does this car have an electronic distributor in it? Edit-- When you say "backfire" do you mean spitting back through the carb/s. If so that would be a definite lean thing especially in the off throttle mode

So how many actual early series cars were there?

Pump and crack the bleed screw on the side of the MC. This will allow hydraulic fluid to replace the air in the cylinder resulting in some push down below...... eventually..... Treat this process like you would if you were treating the whole system only look at it as one system upstream from there. Pump up some pressure and crack the bleeder and close when the pedal is down repeat until all the air is evacuated. Repeat at the slave until all the air is out of the whole darn thing..

Did you bench bleed the MC first? If you have air in the MC you can pump til your eyes cross and nothing will happen down below regardless of how what is hooked up to what.

Arne, Hope is a good thing, however unreliable it proves in this case. Didn't see anything from Pam, who does the shipping so Monday would be my guess.

Loren, I'm all over the "let an L motor sit for extended period and the rings'll stick" theory. I'm guessing your engine is fresh enough that a warm up will get 'em free enough to seal..... This information is worth exactly what you paid for it..... nyuck nyuck Saturday morning soccer game with the grand son..... in the rain. Bummer.

I added a Subaru third brake light to the deck lid of my wagon which would be a totally different deal than a Z BUT the single biggest thing I wired into that circuit was a BACK OFF module from a motor cycle shop. It goes steady for a bit, then flashes three of 4 times and does that over and over til I let off the brakes. I can see nummies come up behind me with their heads in the "up and locked position" and watch the nose of their vehicle dive as soon as the flashing light finally registers. I know it's saved me more than once. Food for thought....

Your carbs need work....... Sorry, just had to drop that in there. Anyhow, you just missed the end of season Bar-B-Que and run up Mary's Peak 2 weeks ago. You need to come by the shop on Turner Road and get aquainted with the gang. 4030 Turner Road shop L-5.

Okay, a little devil's advocasy if I may be allowed. What exactly are you looking to accomplish with this essentially like for like swap?

Danny, What do the floors look like rust-wise? The engine compartment looks like the car hasn't been around the world underwater so it appears you have a good sound box to build from. Local SoCal car? Dang carbs are even clean...... Bummer.

And if the mileage may be correct, things like starters, alternators water pumps, wheel bearrings, u-joints, clutches..... call 'em hard parts may not need any attention but you can bet anything rubber with 33 years on it will leave you standing beside the road. Low budget? stay close to home or get AAA and a cell phone. Once you have all those sub systems returned to square one, then the fun can commence.

Here ya go guys. This is one of those questions where if you ask 25 guys you'll get 30 different answers...... Come on boys, belly up to the bar....

It looked like from the entry list to be more of a SUPER REGIONAL with a whole bunch of entries being from within about a 7 iron of RA. Two out of 30 from farther west than Kansas? Steve said he really likes the course and with only a total of 11 laps in sessions 2 & 3 he did pretty well. We watched his in-car yesterday and he pointed out a lot of areas that appeared to be level which once he pointed out what they were doing showed up some major up and downage..... Anyway, Greg, suffice to say we could not see much of the orange car from Steve's incar.....

So you're doing it for you and your enjoyment, right? In that case any choice you make is the right one. I know for Sprites and Midgets going Datsun A series engines and 5 speeds is a big upgrade.

Well for crying out loud, of course it's leaking!! It's in a Britich car!! Look out here comes Arne to the rescue of all things Briitich......

MSA is about as poficient at getting out of date info off their web site as we are and I say that only if they still reference Grose Jets. I haven't looked at their web site in a long time..... hell, I haven't looked at our web site in a long time..... I would be really surprised if any patents are still in place that would preclude anyone from producing and selling an on/off valve of the Grose Jet variety. They first came out in the 50's. Anyone here proficient in patent law?

We have not been able to get Grose Jets for about 8 years.

Terminology -- "Cranking but not turning over"? Old guy, very confused..... My read? Contacts in the ignition switch are carboned up making for poor conductivity of the "juice" to the starter solenoid which will likewise carbons up the contacts in the solenoid resulting in what I think you are describing. At this stage in their lives I'd guess every Z out there if they don't aleady have one, could use a solenoid put in that circuit so the wiring harnes, through the switch, doesn't have to handle all that current.

Man, that's a stumper. Hard to imagine that with only 3+psi fuel pressure that there would be enough residual pressure, after shut off, to overfill the floatbowl enough to run out the mouth of the carb. You are new to the car, right? First thing I'd do is to look into what's there in the way of fuel pump/s. Assuming it's a 240 there should be a mechanical pump on the side of the head and there may be an electric pump back by the tank. Sum total output should not exceed like 3+ psi. Let us know what you find. And do not assume the previous owner/s played by the rules.

I believe the plan (as stated above) is to use your existing "struts" and installing 280ZX "inserts" in them and re-installing them (the 810 struts). I'd also bet any year 280ZX strut (with the spacer to make up the difference in length) will work. This is a pretty straight forward deal. If the right inserts aren't available any more, a shorter set in their place, will do just fine.

I just now looked at the Hemmings ad for the blue car. Anyone want to guess how many times I stumbled over and around that car when it was being brought back to life in Steve Epperly's shop?? If the prices we hear it has sold and resold for are accurate, someone has taken a real serious hit on that car. And the refrain of "it's a small world? comes ringing into ear shot.....

Hell, I'd aleady assumed it made too much sense to actually work. Just kinda the way the world is anymore. The more sense something makes the less likely it is to work. GRRrrr. Oh, and Andy, You need carbs. That I know already...... Nyuck nyuck