Diseazd

Mike.....You should have used the function on the thread you just nixed!

A good friend of mine bought the car. He doesn't know how much it's worth either. However, with so few original cars left with all the parts and docs, in restored condition, it should bring a hefty price.

Probably because you can get into some "serious dung" with that much power in a little car like that!

I'm really enjoying this thread.....Great work Sweaty....I'm a big fan!

Don't really care what his personality is......he made a great contribution to the Z community......his R/T mount works great! I'm grateful.

Just my opinion Captain.....why wouldn't you install the R/T mount and never have to do the job again? The bump stop from above keeps the rubber from separating on the diff mount below.

I'm with Cliff.....get rid of the brass....go to steel. While you're at it, get rid of that late E88 and get a better head....you have a low emission, low compression head

We're with you on this one Zup........great hospital, all the best Docs. Our prayers and thoughts are with you. Guy

Me too Brian.....

Yes, that's why you're having a problem. The early Z's had a different mounting point for the arrestor belt mount which put the bump stop bolt in an interference point with the e brake mechanics when you install the RT mount / TV mount. Yours is a transition Z (half Series 1 and half Series II). Try the mods mentioned above.....it'll solve your problem.

Yeah Zed probably did......if you look close, you'll see that I also cut a notch out of the forward support bracket. If Tomcat's mount has that bracket hanging down like mine, he'll have to notch it for driveshaft clearance (easy to do). Just wondering now.....if you trimmed a notch in the support bracket wide enough to hang the bump stop off of the back of the bracket, maybe you could drill a hole on the back of the bracket as it stands to hang the bump stop off the back slightly......that might work without flipping it 180 degrees. Just a thought. BTW.....It's a great system.....you'll love it!

BTW, mine had a support bracket that I dremeled off so the drive shaft cleared, but it doesn't look like yours has that buttress. If you expand the pic and look close, you'll see that the part of thebump stop is hanging off the mount. Works perfect. Good luck!

Here's a couple shots (from the rear). If you look close, you can see the step (brake line step) is now on the left, but the bump stop (still centered over the diff) is back behind the bow of the e brake ....even when pulled. Works perfect, and as I said, no contact with brake lines even though the step is on the wrong side.

Is your Z an early Series 1 or transition Z? I had the same problem with my 70 Z. Seems the attachment points on the later model cars are farther back. My solution was I rotated the mount 180 degrees. Can't remember whether I had to drill another hole for the bump stop or not (don't think I did)..The notch for the brake lines will be on the wrong side, but there was no contact with the lines anyway. My Series 2 cars worked fine.....just the early cars.

........not a drop!

Just replaced the seal and O ring in the speedo gear. No leak so far. BTW.....that little inside seal has a direction to be installed. If you look closely, the lips of the inner seal need to be facing into the transmission.....just like any other seal.

Virginia does that too......pretty neat!

Yep....My 280ZX 5 speed speedo cog gear in the 73 is leaking too. Just received the two seals from Motorsports......appreciate all the info

Isky sells numerous retainers for different profile cams......if you have a hat designed for a .250 or greater lash pad, you've got the wrong retainer. The retainers that Isky sent me for a Stage III regrind will handle a .150 lash pad with no contact..... no problem. Anytime you go away from a stock build, you have to check and recheck wipe patterns, clearances etc. Like I said, they've been grinding cams for a long, long time.....I am thrilled with their product and wouldn't go anywhere else. The Z Doc recommended this set up........good enough for me.

If your rockers hit your retainers, whoever built your engine must not have geometried the rockers correctly. The only way that happens is if the the lash pads are so thin that the end of the rocker is too low in the hat......my guess is he went back with stock lash pads. With the grind on a Stage III cam, a much thicker than stock lash pad must be used to center the pattern on the rocker. As far as spring pressure is concerned, I trust Isky to know what is and isn't correct for their cam profiles for the street......they've been doing this a very long time. However, when installing this set up in an L24 head, shorter valve seals must be used (because of the higher lift). All five of my Z's have Isky cams and springs ........flawless performance. Sorry you had a problem. IMG_0340.MOV IMG_0342.MOV

......and you'll absolutely love the result. But remember ......the P79 head must be shaved and shimmed to get to 9.3 to 1. You might be able to bolt an N42 head on top and get the same result, but I've only done it with the shaved and shimmed P79.

You are right on Charles.....and if you want a totally fun and reliable street car that runs on pump gas, more H.P. Is not always better. However, I really want another shot at Eiji....therefore I'm going to build something to go back and try to even the score....therefore the stroker crank!

Sorry Matthew, I haven't read through this thread yet, but just got your PM. Let me start by saying that I've done basically two L28 builds. Two with L24 crankshafts and rods and two with L28 crankshafts and rods. All four engines have the F54 blocks bored .040 over with Nissan or LTM P79 flat top pistons and SU's....none have headers. All four engines have P79 heads (same head as P90 head except P79 has liners) shaved .080 then shimmed up (valve springs and towers) .080 to keep chain height and geometry straight. The engines with the L28 cranks (to the best I've been able to determine) give you close to 10:1 compression ratio.....the L24 crank and rods will give you about 9.3:1 compression ratio. If you don't shave and shim the P 90 head, you're shooting yourself in the foot IMO. The N 42 head would probably be a better choice (I've never used the N42 head, so can't comment on engine knock.....mine have "0" knock....ever) because of the higher CR, but the P79 and P 90 is a more modern combustion chamber. All four engines use Isky reground Stage III cams (I wouldn't use anything less....they are fantastic) and valve springs. The rockers will geometry correctly using between .150 and .180 inch valve lash pads. These engines are very quick (not brutal), and very streetable and a blast to drive. Not sure which is my favorite, but the L28 crank is done at 5500 rpms (as far as power) and the L24 seems to go another 1000 rpms to max power (by the seat of the pants not yet dynoed the L24 crank engines). Both push 170 hp at the wheels (200 hp at the crank). These set ups were recommended to me by my Z expert friend the Z Doc who is no longer with us, but I always consulted with him (He built the heads, I built the rest). I don't have any other experience with Datsun modded engines although I think I might build a stroker engine since I recently acquired a diesel crank (If I do, I'll be seeking advice from someone on this forum who can help me with that build). If either of these engines interest you, I can certainly help you with your build, and will answer any questions you may have. Both engines are awesome......I love each equally. Good Luck and let me know if I can help. BTW ....if you want to hear that engine, go to my profile....go to topics and check the youtube video in "Me and Eiji head to head". He turned a 14.30 quarter mile and mine was 14.85 (he had 100 more hp) Guy

Proud of you Jeff! Your hard work really has paid off. I'll bet your other Z would have won too if you would have taken that one. How about a picture of the red car?

I vote "dump the blue one Cliff"!