Diseazd

I’ve never used Muratic acid for that purpose, but it eats rust off of nuts and bolts completely in 3 minutes. It also eats it cleanly from the surface inside gas tanks. I would fill the strut with acid (won’t take much) and let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse out with water, then see if it eats the rust and allows it fall out. Wear goggles of course. Let us know if it works. Home Depot has Muratic acid for $10.00 a gallon.

Ditto that Capt. Obvious! Atlanta is gonna be a blast.

Charles.....Xmas is coming up soon.....these are an easy install.

Holy crap! Look what my son (Five and Dime) had painted for me for my birthday!!! Awesome painting of my green 72. Thanks Brandon....you’re the best.

Sorry, but I think the fact that so many tossed the 73 flat tops in the 70’s speaks for itself.....flat tops just were a major step down from the earlier carbs.....glad you folks are going for originality, but I wouldn’t even think about trying to make them work. I just picked up a 73 for one of my friends who bought an original 73......had to use starter fluid to get it started. No thanks.....and good luck to you for trying!

https://datsunspirit.com/shop/ati-harmonic-damper-kit/

Call Eiji.....he’ll be happy to help you out.....tell him I told you to call and you are trying to put a bet down (on my car) to win our Dinwiddie race this Fall! Seriously....Eiji will be happy to give you the right info.

Not sure on the numbers Jeff, but any good speed shop (Summit) will have those numbers and my guess is the bolt came with the damper. It takes a special tool to install as you can see.

In the past, I’ve only used stock dampers.....280 dampers bought new from Nissan. My two Stroker Motors used expensive dampers (ATI Super Dampers)....Eiji built those two motors. My guess is that’s the one I sent to you. If I use stock dampers, I always use the stock crank bolts....lesson learned.

Whatever you use Jeff, make sure the crank bolt isn’t too long. I used a Nismo performance crank bolt once and it was a tad too long (for the stock damper) to pull everything up tight. Took me a while to figure that one out. Just make sure you are torquing threads and not the bolt bottoming out, or you’ll go through the same problem again. BTW, my guess is a performance machine shop can weld and machine that snout. If they can change the stroke on a stock crank, don’t know why they can’t fix the snout. Guy

Looks good.....very little electrolysis damage on water inlets. Rockers can be sent to Delta Cams for refurbishing, cam to Isky. The head will come back from the machine shop looking like new.

Rich....You are “the man” when doing a complete restoration the right way. I love seeing these needy Z’s taken down to the bones and brought back to their original beauty. Now that you have a very detailed , “do it the right way” painter, you have the right combination to achieve concours results. With the time and money that you put into your restorations, it just lets you know that when a pristine Z sells at auction for $50,000.00, it’s little more than a “break-even”. I’ll enjoy watching this Z come back to life! Guy

Looks great Jaymanbikes, but I’d raise the track on that garage door. You know the science of impenetrability ( two objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time)! ?

Actually, Zcardepot sells the rear hardliners in stainless for $49.00. The conversion allows the early cars to use the later wheel cylinders......no bending required.

Well then, how about 6 or 7 of the car from different angles to see the finished product! ?

Wow....Quite the improvement Jim....how about a shot of the back bumper? Beautiful!!!

Right you are....at the corner of N.Druid Hills Road and the Buford Highway. I spent a lot of time there back in the 70’s. Not sure if Nick is still there, but it’s a must place to go!

I was good friend’s with Nick (owner of the Rusty Nail). We hung out there back in the 70’s. Nick also had a 240Z......small world. It’s on North Druid Hills Road.....you can follow me there Cliff....it’s just a little pub, but a fun place to drink!!

4 National Championships on that podium......

You bet BamaJama! Gonna be a blast!

I couldn’t agree more Cliff. I only used a Schneider cam once (same specs as yours).It lost metal off of the number one lobe in the first 300 miles (and I did all the zinc and break in procedures) and I have never had a problem with an Isky regrind from the original Datsun billets. It’s not Schneider’s fault, they can only grind the new billets available, and they just aren’t up to snuff with the Japanese stuff. Many have been successful with Schneider’s on the new billets, but if I’m going to build an expensive performance engine, I don’t want to take any chances. IMO

It’s alive!!!!

HI Marty....Actually, the SU’s drive my other Stroker (same set up) very well. I even got a wow out of Eiji when he rode in it this weekend. I do plan to dyno the car with SU’s to see how it does. Taking the air box cover off when I need a boost gives it a nice increase. The SU’s are so damned simple and efficient that it always makes me hesitate to go all out with triples, but I think it may happen on the green car after a good break in. Believe me, even with the SU’s, these engines feel like they want to “break something” when you really get on it! Guy

7tooZ.....What brand are the new headers and how do they fit? They look great! Guy

Everything is in.....new radiator, new 240mm clutch, new clutch master and slave cylinder and of course the 3.1 Stroker. I think there will be motor music in the garage tomorrow night. Just need to adjust the valves, add oil and fill the radiator. Can’t wait!