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MidLifeCrisiz

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Everything posted by MidLifeCrisiz

  1. Hey thanks guys. Looks like I'll be going mostly oem rubber. Does anyone have a parts list and numbers for Nissan or another place to get all the bushings?
  2. What would your recommendation be for a replacement because mine are quite worn and I would like to get them replaced.
  3. I am wanting to replace all of the bushings in my 71z. I found a kit on Amazon, but I don't want it to be too stiff. I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with the Amazon complete kits. I am trying to achieve close to oem ride quality, something I would be able to daily drive on my long commute and not ruin my back. Thanks Energy Suspension 7.18101G Hyperflex Master Kit for Datsun 240Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ALDDD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-Q2bvb0XAYJ28 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ALDDD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-Q2bvb0XAYJ28
  4. Here is what I bought tonight. Looks like packaging might be a little different than the Sam's Club version after a second look.
  5. FYI Stopped at Costco in Grafton, Wisconsin tonight. They had at least 6 of the 1971 240Z collectibles in their Christmas season gifts area. Yellow and Orange colors. Both had California plates 755DAR and hubcaps, boxes were marked correctly. Same Maistro packaging and look as shown in Nota280's post from July from Sam's Club. I bought one of the Orange ones for $11.88 at Costco.
  6. seller is 2nd owner of the car, didn't ask him how long he has owned it has original bill of sale and manuals has all receipts for any repair work and maintenance he works at a Nissan dealer and has had the service mechanic at the dealership perform any of the service work while he's owned it Original paint is his belief the tires on the car are the ones that were on it when he bought it No rust and wants me to come and see it to prove it I'm going to take a trip and check it out next week...will report back after that
  7. I stumbled on this one a week or so ago. Have been exchanging emails from the owner. Here is what he has told me so far, I haven't seen it in person yet: 1973 Datsun 240z under 20,000 original actual miles Burnt orange w/black interior, automatic He has TLC'd this car and stored for most of it's life. He has other cars and cycles. Sounds as though he runs it every year though. I have asked about running condition and any work done as well as records. Should get info tomorrow on that. I really don't need another car...but...if this can be had for the right price...what do you all think? w
  8. Yep, previous owner was going to a 5spd and V8, plans were to dirt track race her. From what I can tell using a magnet on the traditionally susceptible rust areas, I have good metal...of course no telling for sure until I remove paint.
  9. John, sorry didn't answer your question about "where in Wisconsin". I live in Manitowoc...for those tuning in on this...small city right on the shores of Lake Michigan 40 miles south of Green Bay and the currently frozen tundra. I saw your dot on the map registry some time back...I think we are the only 2 listed in Wisconsin...there are others but not active on this site that I have seen. Steve
  10. Thanks guys. I've looked at the patch options, but I've read and been told by others that they don't match up real well and a body guy would still have to do a lot of shaping. I won't be doing the body work myself so figured if i could find good to excellent originals it would be cheaper and better in the long run. But hey that is why I posted...now that i have more than just the Tabco option I was looking for some opinions. I appreciate the input.
  11. Just acquired a '73 body for a donor for my '71. I posted pictures in my album. Seems to be very solid at least where I need it to be, but now I'm feeling just a little guilt that I'm going to cut her up to make my '71 pretty. Short history...my '71 is very sound mechanically, 89k miles, strong structurally, and I have cleaned up the interior with new seat upholstery,etc... The bad...PO added fiberglass flares bonded over original steel and left no "weep holes". Also has a cracked windshield. So the midwest weather took it's toll and it needs new fenders, rear quarters and dog legs as we
  12. put new Kumho Solus KR21 - P185 70R14's on last year, only seen about 200 miles so far since we have a little issue called snow up here! They hold the corners great and look great on the car. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/album.php?albumid=87&pictureid=532 I have them installed on my donor car right now, but no pictures, if you like I can shoot one tomorrow.
  13. Marty, I'm in need of the same part but for my '71. Based on Arnie's advice, when you do the research do you mind sharing what you find out? I'm out of town for the next week and it might narrow down my search for a '71 part if the same holds true on price. Thanks in advance if you can share anything you uncover, Steve
  14. Esprist, thanks for the response and idea. Adamr, I'll PM you. thanks, Steve
  15. Espirit, i went back and reread my first post...I'm confusing the situation with my post. I was agreeing with you that a reproduction part is very acceptable, especially when you can't visibly tell that it isn't original or it can't be found anymore. I am in need of a hazard switch and would love to know if there are any reproduction hazard switches made before I succumb to putting in a 30 year old replacement switch. I thought maybe the manufacturer of the reproduction fog light switch is maybe also producing the hazard switch for a '71. Do you know who that manufacturer is? Hopefully this
  16. I think you mis-understood my question. I am looking for the HAZARD light switch which is similar in look to the fog light switch your picture showed. Thought maybe the same reproduction house would be making that one as well. thanks
  17. I need a hazard switch for a '71 and think that a reproduction part in this case is the way to go. I would like to inquire whether they may offer a hazard version of that fog light switch. Regarding this thread...Why put something like an electronic switch that is 30 + years old back in as a replacement if there is reproduction parts. Unless my PO was stranded on the side of the road more than the average Z owner and fired the hazards alot...I don't hold much faith in an original used switch holding up any better than the one that I just took out. just my opinion...just trying to make it as
  18. Enigma, I sent you a PM. Arne thanks for the response. Hopefully I can get something worked out for a replacement like the original design. Steve
  19. In case anyone wants to see the inside of a "sealed" hazard switch from a early '71...this is what it looks like. There is a small black "T" made of plastic that has a hole that a small tension spring sticks into. When you operate the switch the spring flexes and allows the "T" to move back and forth across the terminals to open or close one of the two different circuits within the housing. When the hazard switch is in the off position the circuit allows for the turn signal lever to take over control of the lights, when you toggle to the on position the "T" slides and closes the other circu
  20. Thanks guys for the comments. I'll pull it out and inspect a little more. figured if it was 30+ years old may be just as easy to put a reproduction replacement in if they existed. Since this doesn't seem to be the case, I'll do a little tinkering. I may be back Arne, if if I find what I suspect is broken parts. thanks Steve
  21. Does anyone know of a source for an original or excellent reproduction hazard light toggle switch for an early '71? I reviewed a lot of older posts on the subject matter, but no comments/advice on where to purchase a replacement. Aftermarket options don't seem to exist for this? Current switch does not stay toggled in the "on" position, just falls back down and turn signals and hazards don't work No blinky, no clicky, no lighty inside or out. This is a new "Spring-time" issue :cry:as everything worked perfect last fall. Assuming now from all the previous posts on this that the hazard swit
  22. Thanks guys for the excellent advice and first hand experience. I just ordered a set of Eagle caps from Summit and will post some pictures when I install on my slotted mags, as it looks like you all have the mesh style rims. Thanks for saving me a little cash...will help offset the Z logos. So Arne, where did you purchase the 1.5" Z logos you used? I see a set on MotorSport but no dimensions, they are obviously designed for their center caps. thanks again, Steve
  23. Going on 45 this summer. Remember the station wagon's with the jump seat way in the back that you sat in facing out the back window? Well that was our family people mover, artificial wood grain panels and all...well I would press my nose against the back window and stare at all the cars going by and make faces at those tailgating us:laugh:. The Z was one of those cars as a kid growing up you just looked in awe as you saw one driving by. Always thinking...someday...well that day came 2 years ago. The neat thing about living in the midwest is you don't see many running around as most have f
  24. Has anyone purchased these center caps from Motor Sport? (First picture below and this link) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/WCC I have the same issue as discussed on this post, rusted and pitted Appliance center caps, however mine are on a set of slotted mags. (3 additional pics) Just wondering if these are worth buying for $34, or should i just go the route that esprist has gone, sanding and painting? Any advice/opinions or experience on these? Thanks in advance Steve
  25. These were images from a classified ad I saw this past fall.
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