zKars

See “Peachy”

The 75 rack moves 1.51 inches for one pinion revolution. Feel free to convert that steering angle any way you like.

When I get a free day (2025 at the rate I’m going) I’ll measure my vast array of steering racks and let you know! At the very least, I have a known 75 rack that I can measure and tell you about. I don’t understand rack and pinion ratio’s anyway. One turn of the wheel produces a certain amount of rack movement. No ratio of nothing.

These do two things. It raises the effective top of the strut hydraulic top mount inside the isolator. It does thus give you an inch of addition compression stroke. The other thing it does is eliminate the rubber in the stock isolator. I’ll bet that really softens the ride, wouldn’t it? Where is that tongue in cheek icon when I need it? The thing it does NOT do is give you an advertised “softer” ride. IF you are bottom out the shocks due to lowering springs, it gives you another inch of compression travel so you MAY not get that great jolt when that happens, but that’s it. Overall, I bet you get more road noise and vibration when driving without the upper isolator rubber. Just my impressions from what I see.

Its part of the front of the 240z heater box that sits behind the center dash vent that directs vent air forward and to the two eye ball vents on the ends of the dash. Doesn’t exist on a 74-78 260/280

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-8062

Factory roll bar mount points IIRC. More of the same on the sides below the quarter windows. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/240z-factory-body-brace.23013/

Yes, the choke lever mechanism is designed to add both richness AND higher idle speed. If you look at the SU’s, the little metal rod with the kink moves with the choke mech and moves a little arm the prevents the throttle blades from getting back to idle hence adding idle speed. You have to adjust the kink angle with pliers to add or subtract the amount of idle increase you get with choke handle motion. Takes a bit of fiddling around. I use one pair of needle nose vise grips on side of the kink as backup, then bend the other side of the kink with another pair. Yes you have to take off the air cleaner to have any prayer of getting in there I too have dreamed of separating the richness and idle control to get those both “just right” depending on conditions. But that’s what EFI is all about!

Another data point. 75 280. L28 Has pair of SEMS washers. Now I’ll go check my 71

Let the exhaustive discussion begin on which one is right for what year range. GO! Actually I have no clue. I just looked in the valve cover bolt bin and pulled out four unique examples. There may be more.... That one on the right might not be a valve cover bolt at all...

Someone added a relay panel to run whatever it was they added to the car. Fan, driving lights, big bright headlights. Something. Not stock for sure

Dash pics

I don’t want to say much about the new dash pad itself yet, but it is made in a very different way to the original. It is one homogenous thick black rubberish blob with a textured outer appearance that seems to just be texture stamped into the blob (texture looks to be a great match to the OEM), rather than a plastic texture skin over a foam core structure like the OEM pad. Likely going to make longevity much better. No clue about long term UV susceptibility or need or use-fullness of using spray on protectants like “armor all” or the like. There are no instructions for care and handling guidance in the box. There are no pre-cut holes for the dimmer, speedo reset, cig lighter or hazard switch. Even the glove box area is mostly a large skin that has to be cut out to “Fit”. The gauge and vent openings are all open and sized properly, no trimming there. And unlike the stock pad, there are no wrap around flaps of the cover material that line areas like the glove box opening or HCP opening. Don’t think you need it, but it might affect the “look” of the glovebox area when it’s open on the left and right side. You will likely have to paint the steel exposed frame black to resemble OEM. Only read good things about this pad from FB users. Looks like I will use my 72 frame instead of buddies 70. Two reasons. One, the 72 frame just fits better, all the holes for the screws are in the right place (only the two at the bottom of the HCP area are different on the 70 dash, you could just drill two new holes in the frame). Second the frame is stronger and better braced. I noticed the raw dash pad is slightly curved compared to the frame, it will need to be flattened as I put the screws in to draw it into the frame, which is aided by the stronger 72 frame. Gotta remember to swap the VIN plates....

Brace bars are stamp steel verses round bar in the 72 frame

More and better wire harness support tabs

Other side of HCP, more bracing too

Extra bracing HCP area bottom

70 frame is always first of two pictures. Left side end. End framed in.

We have discussed differences in the dashes through out the various years, but I’ve never seen a discussion about the differences BEHIND the dash pad. There are wiring differences, 73 dashes have the lit controls and pull hazard switch, but I’m talking stuff you REALLY don’t see. This week I’m swapping a cracked dash pad for a Hung Vu reproduction dash pad on a fairly early 1970 240Z, VIN 27xx ish. I was having trouble fitting the old dash frame into the new dash pad, and wondered if the issues are related to the expected minor differences in the fancy new dash pad or something unique about the frame itself, There were a couple of screw holes in the HCP area that were obviously not in the same place in the new pad (there are lovely metal bars built in where the frame to pad screws bite, predrilled too!) so I wondered what else might be “unique” Downstairs I go to get another dash, this one from a 72. Removing the steel frame from the dash pad and comparing it to the early frame there are several very obvious differences. Most are related to strengthening the frame. I’m just going to post a series of pictures that compare the two. BTW, the 72 frame fits the new pad much better. Not entirely sure why.

I was going to guess “drain” as well. Is the flattened wide thing rubber or metal? May be an add or user replacement to whatever was on there before. I have never ever seen these.

Today I'm doing various things to complete an early Z restoration. One of those things is installing replacement tool storage area doors, the plastic ones behind the seats. I bought the replacements from MSA as the originals were not in great shape. Their price is $79 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08j12/40-4495 They are made by dashtop.com, same folks that make the aftermarket ABS dash covers and other interior panels. They seem fine, small imperfections, not the topic of this thread, so I'm not going there, except to say that the label they apply to the inside of one of the doors is a Bee-autch to remove. Being ABS, I'm reluctant to use anything but a citrus based cleaner like Goo-b-gone or some such. Waste of time. So as I'm a good little engineer, interested in product improvement, I decide to write them a small note and suggest a different glue type for the labels..... Get to the web site, find the product and guess what dashtop.com wants for a pair??? $149!!! $70 buck cheaper!!!! http://www.dashtop.com/products/replacement-left-right-toolbox-lids-1970-1973-datsun-240z BTW, these replacements don't come with the plastic hinges. You have to get those from your old doors by removing the rivets. Hopefully they are still hinges....

Absolutely no change in engine response when you move the gas pedal is 90% pedal not connected to throttle body, or 10% virtually no fuel pressure. OR 0.005% it’s only running on one cylinder so no amount of extra air makes any difference in how the engine runs. You have lots of diagnosis, cleaning, testing and learning ahead of you. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Mark this is sobering news. Sorry to hear about your struggles.If there is any Datsun related help I can supply, let me know. Alberta has one of the highest rates of naturally occurring Radon gas that is a known to cause lung cancer. Gathers in basements. I keep seeing warnings about it and how to test for it. Not sure how you abate the problem, I think it requires some type of air filter system. Just tiny amounts of radon that seeps out of the ground. No problem unless it collects and concentrates.....

Hey JTO. Zkars here from Calgary too! Send me a PM and we can chat or meet up. Replacing the bushings on the mustache bar and trans mount are fraught with issues. If your stock mustache bar bushing are badly worn, you may not have much choice but to use poly replacements, but doing so will result in more vibration and noise from the diff. These do not affect suspension or handling, so don’t do them unless you have to. Pretty much the same goes for the trans mount. Are the bushings too small? If so you have to remove the outer shell of the old bushings to make room. But again, unless the stock bushings are shot there is no point to changing them other them to increase noise. I know others have expressed concern over fitment. IF you want to go back to a stock mount, I have more than a few. I’m the local parts hoarder.... The belt over the diff is a last resort to prevent the diff nose from hitting the tunnel if the isolator mount fails. It fits a bit loose. I’ve added a rubber spacer in there to take up slop, no sense letting the diff lift at all.

If it helps, I recently discovered that three of my hoarded fuel pumps pump fuel out past the plastic electrical connection tower on the side better than out the outlet port. I suspect they are plugged internally and that pressure had to go somewhere..... So finally the actual helpful bit, I have at least three check valves on these pumps that available to who ever needs one...