zKars

One could just go and buy such apparently "magical" out of round self locking nuts and use them with the stud of your choice avoiding the dealership. I believe they are just run of the mill conical self locking nuts. Their tips are staked, deforming the end of the conical nut. The entire nut is not "out of round". A favorite supplier of mine is Bel Metric. They have them with and without flanges in either the usual 8x1.25 or 10x1.25 if you use a larger stud. https://www.belmetric.com/metric-nuts-top-lock-flange-nuts-c-3_54.html?zenid=5pqdalupf8j63msv7pldqra8f6

73's in North Am had the pull hazard knob. Some reg. or requirement came in to have it lit up with the dash lights I suspect.

water inlet/lower rad hose fitting on spark plug side, yes? Sure its coming from around the bolt? no way its the rad hose or heater hose? The bolt holes are blind in the front cover, so if not the rad hose or heater hose clamp, that inlet fitting may be cracked.

Zed head is dead right. Use a 5/16 or 8mm punch and whack it HARD with a BIG hammer from the end that broke off at the threads. Heat it up as hot as you can with whatever torch you can get ahold of first. Do NOT be gentle.

The slave cylinder ends needs/uses a copper crush washer rather than usual compression/flare brake sealing arrangement. I did use a brake line once, had to shorten the male threads on the slave end so it didn't bottom, and get a generic copper washer to make the seal, but it worked fine. There is an official correct SS clutch line available to do this properly.

Take the valve out, blow through the end that screws into the cap, push on the valve end with your finger until you start to blow through. Learn on/off threshold position by experimenting with finger. You can also blow into the fuel inlet pipe too with a piece of tubing attached with the thing still assembled and press the valve with your finger until you hear and feel it open. Then you can see better where the tip position is when it opens.

Whoa! A lesson in reading without assumptions. This topic has been covered before so naturally I assumed.... Bad zKars..... Too small? Did you take the sleeves out and these bushings are designed for sleeves in? Wrong bushing? Now I'm confused..

No mystery here. You have to remove the thin inner steel liner tube that was part of the stock rubber bushing before you get the correct "remaining" ID. Hack saw two slots in it, collapse it inward. Same method needed on the rear outer control arm bushings when you do them too.

I thinks its do-able with certain "custom" touches required. The control panels are different, and if the 280 heater box has the vacuum operated components then it will be tougher yet, as the 240 is totally push cable operated. Early 280 boxes are cable operated too, its the later ones with AC that vacuum actuated. The heater core outlets have different orientations requiring the 280 hot water valve and its plumbing/hoses, and it relys on a throught the fire wall nipple thing that 240's don't have. Get all the parts you can for that. The center air outlet plumbing from the air box is different, but similar, again because of the differences in the heater control panel. Using some old 240 parts there may be required to mate them up. The blower motor and housing under the passenger side is pretty identical. The FSM's and the fiche show pretty good pictures of both as to air handling hose differences. Space under the dash is pretty much the same, should "physically fit" back there. Only one real way to tell. Try it.

There are no stock alloys prior to the "iron cross" wheels that come out in '78. Just steelies and three kinds of hub caps depending on year. Any alloys were dealer supplied. Might of come from the show room with them, but not from Japan! At least in North America. There are several excellent wheel experts who will likely chime in any second about the origins yours, but they are not "stock".

I'll pull my bracket off and send it to you rather than have you resort to "him"!! Really, the plastic bottle isn't shiny enough for my engine bay anymore anyway so you can have the bracket!

If you guys want to replace your HCV with something a bit more modern and perhaps more controllable, Vintage Air sells their servo controlled valve as a separate item. http://vintageair.com/catalog11/pg74wc.pdf There is also some other cool stuff on that page.

Fiber damage from dampening may not be reversible.... Being from GA, his is likely damp already

The clutch slave plumbing bracket absence indicates that chassis was likely a automatic originally. Not a required item, but should fab up something similar to prevent flexing of the hardline at that connection point. The flat top carbs on 73 have a slightly different pivot as you found and the mating bracket that pivots is correspondingly different but does the same job, other than that same-same, nothing important. Only body difference other than internal strengthening in the doors and such is the front bumper mounts on a 73 are much larger and different and attach differently. 72 don't have the same frame holes to mout the 73 brackets, and the ends of the 72 brackets won't mount to the 73 bumpers, different position and spacing of the two holes. 73 does have the same holes to mount 72 brackets, so use the 72 bumpers if you can. Look better, fit closer. Nothing a little fab can't fix. The wiring harnesses are quite different, at least in the connector plugs under the pass. dash.

And now you need advice on taking the liner out. Two methods. Out the front, which if not done "just right" will cause harm to that fragile piece of rotting, soft, (checking to see where your from...), yup, soggy, cardboard. Some claim you can collapse it inward and remove it without harm. So far, I've never done it without harm. The other, from the back, requires removing the heater fan and the air handling box it attaches to. One cable, 3 screws and one connector for the fan, then 3 bolts holding air handling box to the fire wall. Your call.

Take out the glove box liner. Please put some details of your z in your signature line so we can be more helpful and targeted with the advice. Thanks!

74.5 260 and up to 76 280 door panels "fit" with the mentioned cavets for arm rest mounting. Also the mounting holes in the harboard for the retainer clips are meant for the round plastic pop in style rather than the steel ones, so it difficult to get the steel ones, which press over one edge of the hole is specific orientation to line up correctly, but it can work. The over all dimensions are identical. As mentioned, stay AWAY from the later 77-78 panels. They have different lock button hole location on the top as you know, and the rear edge angle is quite different, so they don't fit worth crap. The chrome trim strips are different, so do both sides if you can. There's a pair for sale over on hybrid right now. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107494-door-panels-19745-1976-style-for-260z-280z/ Be quick about getting them if you're serious!!!! Jim

I had to know the sizing to get quick google hits. Not easy to find these are....

Tie rod end threads are 14mm x1.5mm thread. A little googling found me this. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=6123&action=product

Had a chance to clean out the interior and get some "real" pictures of the beast. About the only good things I've found is the HCP is not al broken up, and the fuse box isn't melted! Don't you love the "D" hub caps it came with? "Yeah, and it has 3 of the original hub caps too!" Anyone silly enough to take this rust bucket on let me know..... When I said it will rise again I meant I'll put more air in the tires...

There is a shell in Edmonton I'm thinking about getting. Theres just so much of is one that is not 147. Just how much of 147 has to be in the new one so its still 147? the age old question....

Other than firewall sound deadening, the one item that made a remarkable difference to engine noise for me, was the addition (replacement actually) of the weatherstrip across the lip where the hood latch is located. After applying this strip along with an overall WS replacement binge some years ago, I remember getting in my triple powered z for a drive, pulling away, and thinking "oh oh somethings wrong! The motor sounds wrong and gutless!" Nope, the noise coming back to me through the hood/cowl gap was sealed by that strip!

Thanks Blue, but I'm not sure a new body is going to fit in the mail!

As you can see there are some challenges. It has the big four VINs all the same at least. pictures of the other two coming, they are safely tucked away. Hard to see any 147 at all in the pictures, there is a lot of 260 substitutions on the car. At least it has a new good friend to sleep with tonight.

Home now, all unpacked and tucked in for the night. Great trip, thanks to persimmon240 for swamper duty! Pictures coming, I promise! its so ugly its pretty...