beandip

I AGREE , I AM GETTING TO OLD FOR THIS TOO. I THINK I WILL GIVE IT ONE MORE YEAR , I AM 66 NOW . GOING DOWN HILL BUT ENJOYING THE RIDE. When I grow up I will settle down. One thing about going down hill ,the load is lighter. bought a new muffler yesterday for my early Christmas present to me . Notice I am not politically correct and said CHRISTMAS. Any it is a new offering by DINOMAX It's call EARSPLITINLOUDENBOOMER !

fireing orer 1 ,5 ,3, 6 ,2 ,4 If this is how you have them connected then there must be a connecter not making contact . That is if the plugwires are the trouble. Is this on a 280 engine after '77 ? Otherwise the gap is too wide.

buy the cleanest rust free car you can afford. You will be way ahead . Then pose questions about anything on the site. Just for info. 2 + 2 cars are less desireable and less collectiable. Still vary good cars . Just bigger and heaverier. Lack of rust is the biggest thing , or the least amount of it.

I have a tool to loan that makes it a easy job. send me a pm and I will set it up. makes it a easy 30min job . You just pay the shipping cost both ways for the tool and return it to me clean and complete. please for members only. Gary By the way you can reuse the old pins which are $25.00 ea. So the shipping will be less than half of that.

Sorry I am geting in here late , but sounds like more than one thing has gone gunnybag . Inside the dist. the plate that holds the points , in a electronic dist. as well this plate is a two part disk. It is seperated by ball bearings held in place with plastic ''keepers'' . Over the years of heat the plastic parts brake down and the balls fall out . At best they fall to the botton of the dist past the cintrifucial advance systime. In any case if this is the problem the timing will be majorly effected. Look to replacing with a ZX dist . this happends with them as well if you have one of them . I dident want to mention all of this as if you start working on too many things at once you will be having questions of what the problem is from many different directions. The fact that the engine runs better with a richer mix could be caused by a weak spark. You are going to do more checking . Since you have more than one Z engine do you have a different dist that is known to be good? If so try it and go form there. my 2cts

2-Z welcome abord. I think that you will find that there is a wealth of good information here. I read that you have carb trouble , If the carbs are flat tops , this will likely be a ongoing problem . I recommend that you find a set of round tops . Keep the intake you presently have. The picture that shows the rust holes on the driver's front fender, it is because of a fender drain that is plugged, lift the hood and look for a opening just forward of the area that is rusted . It is on the inside edge of the fender. Common thing , I had a mouse nest in mine and calking pluging the other. In doing repairs , remember bondo and like products as well as primer , are porus and will allow moisture to contact the metal and rust will result . If exposed to the weather it will need to be sealed with paint. Good luck with the car , It looks stright .Gary :laugh:

Absolutely MikeW is right on. My roof looked like a sack of potatoes , I thought I was going to need a replacement. escanlon showed me how and we strightend it out and used vary vary little body filler. So it can be done. It just takes time and patience. I will post pictures in a gallery when I find out how .

Iam with Ed , I dont see how you can change the filler hose with out removing the tank. It's a wrestleing match in any event. I used a floor jack that I padded to keep from scratching the paint on the tank, and lifted it in place while I reconnected the straps. Be sure to have the vent lines connected to the tank before you put it in place, especially the upper one in the rear . This whole operation is ocward in any case and I think is a must to drain the fuel before you even start.

I think Ed ,nailed it. Charge the battery. Sounds like you havent driven the car long enough for the alternator to recharge the dead batt.

Lighten the car , leave the spair tire, passanger seat home . I wouldent pull the head to change the gasket unless it is faulty. Make sure all is in tune , adjust the valves , and ballance and adjust the carbs. I would set them a little on the rich side . You DONT want a lean pop from the carbs when you floor it . Fresh plugs wont hurt any thing. As for the fuel run with 5 gal. and for wheel spin , get off the line with as much power as you can with little wheel spin . Wheel spin will raise the ET times and lower the speed usually.Watch the tree and punch it when the last yellow light comes on, and if you are like most people , you will be right on when the green light flashes. Shift at the proper RPM when making the most torque. Running the engine to redline will yeald slower times.The shift points will be dictated by the cam you are running. Also if you have the stock 240 air filter remove the air cartridge but leave the filter base , it has the horns mounted in it that are tuned for the engine. I am assuming you are running SUs .

Pay spicific attention to the oil issue and how the damper works and that thin oil causes a LEAN mixture . ATF is only 5w . 20w is is recommended . This is a great post and one to download and keep . Thanks for the post.

Most likely what you are seeing comming out of the exhoust as liquid is water condensation . You might check the coolent temp with a candy thermometer when the temp gague is showing normal driving temp. Dont remove the rad cap on a warmed up engine , do it when it is cold and leave it off untill the engine warms up . You could have a bad thermostat and the engine is running on a cold start setting. That is the same as the choke being on.

Was I ever wrong about the amount , what was I thinking 70 sq ft !!! I just pulled up Mikes gallery pictures and he stated that he used 35 ft. to do the yellow judi's floors and firewall. It is worth a look . Go to gallerys and click on mike and look at the yellow Z . For those that are new here. Gary What I was remembering was the cost I think of about $70.00 for the 35 sq Ft. sorry about the bum info . Gary

ever heard of the story of the BLIND LEADING THE BLIND ? I bought a really good 240 that the PO tinkired with to the point that it wouldent even make it up a normal driveway ramp with out a running start. Before you start tinkering , buy some books like the shop manual , and read about what you are about to take on. Ask questions of people that really know what they are talking about and are not guessing. Then you can enjoy the ride. All the best of luck . Gary

RAZ1 , Mike G. , when he did his car If I remember correctly he used 35 sq ft. roll of brown bread. He did the whole floor areas and firewall I don't remember if he did the quarter pannels for sure but I think so . We talked about doing the roof , which I am going to do . If my memory serves me he thought that he had enough to do everything except the roof. Send him a PM . Any way the bread comes in a 3' wide roll and you can cut it with tinsnips or large sissors or a razor knife. He was in the process of doing the car when I last talked with him about this stuff and later he emailed a picture.In fact it may be in his gallery. Gary

Chrisa and Jaru the electric pump was used starting in '73 to help the fuel starvation problem caused by the heat boiling the fuel in the fuel rail and pump. The electric pump keeps cool fuel flowing through. There are filters in the inlets of the SUs check and see if there still in there . Most have been removed by now , but yours may still be there and clogged. My 2 cts.

Jim , welcom to Oregon , there is a rather large and active Zcar club that is in the area, mostly out of Salem , some members in Portland. I am in Beaverton , it's a suberb of ptln. if I can be of some help. Gary

There is a co. in canada called B-QUIET b-quiet.com they are in the speaker business and auto as well and they have at least 6 different kinds of sound deading materials to chose from. One that I am , or was going to buy is called '' brown bread '' it is a matt that is like dynamat but is foil covered on one side and peal-n-stick on the other and it is also less money than dynomat. Just a thought Mike , the bone breaker , used it in his 240 . There are three different levels of their similar product B-quiet entreme , lite, and brown bread. All of which will not absorb moisture. When you go with the bread , and buy a roll you save some money . Check with B-quiet for the prices as my contat was over a year ago. But I think you can do the whole car complete , roof and all for about $100.00. Gary

zondabrain , has it right for my money. The NGK plugs have worked the best in these engines for me and most of us. The ZX ignition is all that he says it is . My BPR6ES NGK plugs cost me $10.14 for the set and I have been running them so long I had to look in by log book to see what I paid for them . This set up has worked great for me . It isn't the price it's the results. If this was a Jag or a Honda , thats another story. my 2c

Is this going in a 240 ? are you going to run SUs or injection ? If you don't already have a 5 speed and plan on going this route , if you can afford it . Buy the tranns as well. The engine has flat top pistons and the head has round exhaust ports. A good combination , if you dont already have a electronic ignition grab this one and the coil again if you can afford . See if they will swap the module that is on the side of the dist for one from a '79 or '80 marked 12 80 . If you want to know what gear ratio that is in the diff let me know . I am installing the same engine in my 240 this week or next. Like was mentioned before look at the oil this will tell you alot on how the engine was maintained before , you might be lucky and just be able to clean her up and install it . That would save you acouple of grand if you can get by without a rebuild.

Bill if you want them BID ! this is a AUCTON !

Sorry I blew it . I dident see that you are driving a injected Z . Ed is right . To do a proper job it is best to pull the manifolds. Do by all means buy some PB Blaster for all the nuts and bolts. Let the stuff soak over night if you can and give it some more just before you start wrenching on it . It stinks to high heaven but you won't be sorry. Dont over tinghten the manifold when you reassemble everything. Manifold nuts torque to 8 lbs. One thing to do is to label the wireing and sensers as you remove the wires. Number them is a good way and be aware of the bolts lengths as they may not all be the same length. Important when reassembly. Also I use anti-seiz on all the bolts and nuts when reassembling. things go so much easier in the future if you need to remove something. Be careful not to scratch the aluminum head when cleaning the old gasket off and start tightning from the middle and work to the ends. Other than that , it's simple.

Sorry I cant help you there but have you changed the spindel pin bushings, or the moustash bar bushings. They can cause the clunking also. When I installed the R-200 I kept the 180 half shafts. I am no help there. I have a spindle pin puller to loan if you need it . Gary

Ed , loom tape is the stuff allright Essex is a maker of it # BT-079 If you have the HOW TO RESTORE book look on page 117 there is a long list of suppliers. Gary