bpilati

I'm not familiar with that inertia reel. If I were buying aftermarket belts, I would most certainly buy them with dual-sensing reels, that both lock up based on webbing payout speed and inertia/G loading. All new cars use this type of reel. Even with low elongation webbing, you would be amazed at how close you will get to the steering wheel in a real crash. Hopefully what you have it designed for the mounting location it is in. On a separate note, the early 240Z belts without reels are actually better than with reels. The only purpose for reels is freedom of movement and convenience. Inertia reels do not make you safer in a crash as compared to belts that are hard mounted to the vehicle structure, as the 70 and 71 Z belts are. This is akin to race cars which do not use inertia reels. But there is nothing wrong with adding them to your car as long as they are installed properly.

I've been told by MSA that they no longer make the units. I believe it was a business decision.

I have the one pictured above, which I believe was that originally offered aftermarket. But they had one that came out later to be mounted like the OEM types used on the 260Z and 280Z.

Switches included in European market where cars are parked half on the sidewalk and half on the street, and the street-side marker lights are turned on. Everyone has seen pics of those narrow European streets in some old cities.

If you have a 70 or 71 Z, you will not have the pocket in your floor well to install a retractor. This will interfere with sliding the seat back. It may be possible to mount the retractor on the retractor on the vertical part of the bulkhead behind the seat. Many retractors or inertia reels need to be mounted in a vertical orientation to lock properly.

I actually visited MSA recently, and took a look at the latest version. It is better than the one I received, so I'll probably order one when the time comes.

Looks like we have a duplicate thread here. For original look, go here: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They carry the original paint color used in the 240Z restoration program by Nissan.

http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Talk to Les Cannaday about the correct paint which they used in the Nissan 240Z resto program. He carries this paint for the rear panels, grill and original wheel covers. I also recommends powder coating if you want it to hold up longer, for instance the grill.

They are usually installed in a useless location where they provide no protection at all. They also look blingy. Dump them.

Because the Precision seals make it hard to close the door.

It appears that the Sportage seal does not have the corner bend molded in like the Z molding does, so I guess you have to be satisfied to live without it.

How does the Kia seal handle the up right (driver's side) sharp corner?

Hmmm, how is the upper door corner covered by that?

And you found it fully satisfactory both operationally and material quality?

Interesting, I learned something today. Because I installed my moustache bar without every accessing that hole or putting a wrench on that bolt. I did it all from underneath.

Can someone recommend the best place to get the Volvo 850 and Kia Sportage seals? What are the exact years used on your cars? Thanks, I'd like to get these this week.

I thought the ballast resistor needed to remain for the tach.

Yeah, it'll make the rear glass melt right out of the frame.

Thanks for the info, guys.

Which Volvo?

You powder coated stainless steel window frames? To each his own.

You powder coated your doors?

The question is, how much do you screw with it, before deciding you were better off before you adjusted?

Thanks. Well the body shop is just paranoid about messing something up. They think it should close perfectly.