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I can hardly wait until you start bashing it with a hammer as Zed Head mentioned, then posting the results. Should be a hoot!

Seiko Watch CorporationThe Datsun 240Z and Prospex Speedtimer: New collaboration...

Keith buy a battery bolt and round off two of the corners with a grinding wheel, https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1680C-Battery-Terminal-Bolt/dp/B0076EVKO8

Keith I picked up a NOS 240Z battery cable off EBay and it has the rounded head.

Because the curious mind must KNOW. For me, owning a classic car is really the journey. I get great satisfaction from understanding all the ins-and-outs of...well, anything. If I drive it, fly it, sail it, race it, ride it, eat it, grow it, run it in my house or office, or if it has moving parts or does anything that impacts my life in any meaningful way, I am driven to know how the thing works, and/or how to build/repair/grow/write/create my own. I like making things.

Or Jegg's possibly? I would think you could find one on the side of the road. It's not like it's a radiator cap for the space shuttle. Your OCD is making things a lot tougher than they are.

I had one of my masters re-sleeved, due to pitting in the bore. Works great with new seals and been trouble free for over 4 years. I'd rather rebuild and refurbish original components if they can be, newer parts don't seem as well made. Thanks for checking your clamps, I'll go with what was on the Green 5/70 BAT 240Z as it was low mileage and relatively untouched.

I have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to standard A11 600 000 ECU’s for 280’s. Can’t ever see using them all locally, so anyone interested in picking up a “Few” in the USA where you can distribute them from there to those that need? Asking $50 each. Ask me for volume discounts….. There are a few ZX turbo, both 280 and 300 if that suites your fancy. I can try to build a list. Similar situation with AFM’s…..

This is a spread sheet of what I had couple of years ago when I tried to sell on Facebook. Not many left the building…..

Wow. I wish I could nap a set of pistons/seals/springs/washers for $85. If you see another one of those, please send me a quick note to let me know? Nobody will see the pistons after they are installed, so it's not like you're going to be judged on whether that coating exists or not. And I understand about polishing it off... The decision which is better...Keep some of the original failed coating, or just remove it all. Totally understand. If you do decide to look into it, there is probably nothing very special about that coating, It's a black oxide coating on steel. It's a controlled rusting kind of coating. Similar to "gun blue". Any coating shop should be able to reproduce it, but cost prohibitive for a single piece. As for the changeover point between the stamped lettering and the cast-in lettering? In that other thread it appears that point is between 7/70 and 12/70 when they changed the markings from stamped-in to cast-in. I got the chance to mess with a 9/70 car and it had the cast in lettering. So with a sample size of one, I could narrow the date window down to between 7/70 and 9/70. However: 1) It's a sample size of one. 2) I don't know if it was the original brake master on the 9/70 car, and... 3) The 9/70 car was an automatic, and some of the stuff on the autos is different than the manuals from the same month (valve cover for example). All that said, I think your MAY car should have the stamped lettering.

What a load of rubbish, there's no way the ball can wear out that much! The Japanese engineers that designed that part knew enough about metallurgy to design the part so that never happens. The cheap stuff now coming out of some countries may be a different case, but not the originals.

G'day @26th-Z , easiest way to check if you have the 11mm 40160-78500 or 14mm 40160-A8610 is by the diameter of the thread on the ball shaft. The early ones measure 11mm. The early steering arms 40052-E4101 R and 40053-E4101 L also have the smaller diameter tapered hole to match the 11mm shaft. The original ball joint is peened on the body to lock the lower cap into position. Careful grinding away of the peen allows the lower section to unscrew without damaging the threads. The parts are then degreased in the ultrasonic cleaner followed by corrosion removal in the cleaner. A brass wire wheel is then used to polish them up. The ball is lapped into the housing and bushing using valve grinding paste. I've managed to find four of the early 11mm ball joints and steering arms in my parts stash and have rebuilt them all. Everything is cleaned, re-greased and assembled. The tolerances and loading are checked per the data in the service manual. Once it passes, it's then painted in VHT satin black, a new dustcap fitted, the grease nipple removed and a OEM filler plug 40189-7300 fitted. They are now ready for fitting back to the car. The beauty of many of the parts on the early 240Z is that they were designed to be serviced or rebuilt rather than discarded and replaced. I've been fortunate to find many new old stock parts to rebuild my May 1970 240Z with.

I've had one of those in my toolbox for years and, yes, it does work. However, if the base of the nut is flush with face of the part it secures, the chisel point will tend to climb up the side of the nut when you start applying torque to the drive bolt. That means that part of the upper part of the nut gets split first, while the lower part hasn't quite separated. If you're lucky the nut will pop, even though it hasn't been completely split. Remember that you'll need adequate clearance in all directions to make the splitter fit, as well as enough room to get a wrench or socket on the drive bolt. That makes the splitter useless for recessed or restricted-access nuts. For example, it'll work great on the top nut on the front anti-roll bar link, but it won't work for the nuts used in some locations to secure the intake/exhaust manifold.

Just make sure that the block-off strategy (whatever it might be) used at the Y-connection on the other side of the engine is sound and secure. For example...