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With the "wet set" method, I was setting them in the installed state, adding gas through the inlet to the float chamber. I was setting the height of the fuel (as seen by looking at the translucent nylon tub attached to the float chamber outlet) to 20 mm below the casting separation line of the chamber and the lid. I switched to setting at 14 to 15 mm between the bottom surface of the float chamber lid to to the top of the metal portion of the float. I did this by cutting and grinding 2 3d size trim nails - one to 14 mm in length and one to 15 mm in length. Using needle nose pliers, I hold each and place them vertically aligned between the float and the roof of the chamber lid. I hold the float pressed against the nail, pinching the nail (vertically aligned) against the roof... and I blow into the fuel inlet. Using the 15 mm nail segment, air can flow from the inlet past the needle valve. Using the 14 mm nail segment, it cannot. I used this method with the rear carb only. I did this yesterday. Today I started the car and the fuel did not gush out of the vent in the chamber lid. I did not run it long or do a test drive. FWIW, this second method is what I always used for my other Z when it had SU's on it. I never had problems with either fuel overflowing or performance, for that matter.

Progress finally being made on 51, up on rotisserie with new rails, floors, front clip, rear valance, dog legs, sections roof, and roof rail replaced, repaired. 3 weeks in with a couple of retired body men, that are definitely up to the task!!

Fun day with the Driven Edmonton show. A little overcast and turnout was still good with around 300 cars. SASSZ was one of two cars picked for Judges Choice award!

No, I don't think they are. Just as an example of personal experience, my 4/70 HLS30U has the plastic clips. I think they continued well into 1970, so not a factor in pinning down the production date of HS30-00004. I reckon many of the component parts of HS30-00004 will for sure have been manufactured in 1969 (especially the early HS30-specific stuff like the wiring harness sections) but they may not be enough to be conclusive about the date it got its 'OK' sticker... Key point for me was always that 'HS30-00001' was the seventh car in the factory program to be given a unique identity and the fourth of the 'Ichiji Seishi'/'Seisan Shisaku' production prototypes, as confirmed by Nissan Shatai's own records. For many years 'HS30-00004' was being used by nay-sayers as 'proof' that no HS30-prefixed cars had been made in 1969 and that - by extension - Nissan had not considered HS30-prefixed cars as part of their original plan. We know this to be totally false. 'HS30-00004' is in my opinion a very significant car in the S30-series Z story.

Looking at the rear glass appears to be replaced……is dated January 71. I owned hls30-1222 years ago, plastic clips, and vented hats.

Very risky in this market, IMHO.

Actually managed to find the images of other early features on HS30 0004. Plastic clip inspection lid AM Radio - no signal seek function and no power antenna switch (similar to Fairlady Z-S specification) Early style ventilated (hat) brake rotors. But here is the curve ball, since HLS30 in 1969 had the solid rear glass, no defrost glass. But HS30 0004 is different. Temperlite stamp Rear view mirror date stamp and horn date stamps And the sump plug and sump (welded in sections)

Just checked my stash. Have NOS sets dated coded 1972 and a 1973 set, white lettering. Also a set of unstamped ones I'm doing up for my car in yellow lettering for 1970. Don't have time to do the reproductions, busy developing next gen drones!

Early fenders inspection lid tabs are slightly different with metal versus plastic clips. I’m sure most know of this, but I simply had not noticed that and other differences in “early 69-72”? Fenders, nos fenders will have to be made right, but definitely another 3-4 steps to take for each fender to be right….”look” right.

Actual originals will be tough to find. Check with @SpeedRoo, I believe he is working on reproductions. Depending on your build date/engine number yours would have had yellow or white markings. The change from yellow to white was in about 3/71 starting with engine number L24-031643. Here is a link to a topic I started on this subject,

Seems like you might be overwhelmed with ideas. Pumping my own suggestion here, but a simple length of wire will allow you to split the whole system in half. Seems like the cheapest easiest quick and dirty diagnostic. No oscilloscopes nevessary. No offense intended to the scope suggesters. But it seems early for that level of tool. If it doesn't start, focus on everything after the coil positive post. If it does start focus on everything before. Don't forget that you'll have to remove the wire to kill the engine.

Exactly. I'm not quite 1925 old. That was my Dad. I was raised in the 1950's and 60's... 2 cents is what we got for each pop bottle we found on the roadside and turned in at the store. A little collecting and you got a pretty good stash of penny candy - or even a candy bar for a nickel...

$1.00 in 1925 is $18.23 today. A US Penny in 1925 had the same buying power of $1.83 today. So your 2 cents worth is now 366 cents. An ounce of God in 1925 was $20.67 - that is 31.1035 grams.(call it 31). $0.66 per gram. An once of God today is $2,754.10 - that is $88.84 per gram. 133 times as much Where did your purchasing power go? $35,000,000,000,000.00 in National Debt.

I think the float bouncing around is part of it. I also think that you can get on the downhill slope of the float tang, and once that happens, you're doomed. Wideband testing would be cool. I know there are people here that think the mixture ratio is highly affected by the float level. I'm not one of them. I believe float level has an effect, but I don't think it's that stark. Of course, however, without testing data, neither camp is anything but speculation. Wideband data would be very interesting.

Sucessfully ordered from Japan! Shipped by sea. More than 1, as min number could be ordered from supplier....