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Hey fellow Z heads. It's been a long time since I logged in here much less made any posts. I thought I would check in to see who is still here from the old crew of 10+ years, actually it's been almost 20 since I first posted on this site come to think of it......and say hello to those who are new since I was last active here. SInce then I've gotten married, have 2 grandchildren, moved from Santa Cruz, CA to Auburn, CA and switched companies and focus. I haven't lost the bug but life, family and career had to take priority for a while, however I'm planning to dedicate more time to the hobby and hope to start reassembling the Z and get it back on the road in the coming months. Actually. I have both the Z and a 1967 Camaro RS/SS 396 to get back on the road and both need some electrical and mechanical work. Wish me luck and more importantly the time and dedication to get it done. I hope you're all doing well and spending plenty of quality time with your Z (and your families 😉).

Fun day with the Driven Edmonton show. A little overcast and turnout was still good with around 300 cars. SASSZ was one of two cars picked for Judges Choice award!

Seems like you might be overwhelmed with ideas. Pumping my own suggestion here, but a simple length of wire will allow you to split the whole system in half. Seems like the cheapest easiest quick and dirty diagnostic. No oscilloscopes nevessary. No offense intended to the scope suggesters. But it seems early for that level of tool. If it doesn't start, focus on everything after the coil positive post. If it does start focus on everything before. Don't forget that you'll have to remove the wire to kill the engine.

Exactly. I'm not quite 1925 old. That was my Dad. I was raised in the 1950's and 60's... 2 cents is what we got for each pop bottle we found on the roadside and turned in at the store. A little collecting and you got a pretty good stash of penny candy - or even a candy bar for a nickel...

They are in Canton. I used them a year or so ago. They rebuild your unit. I think it took a week or so.

I'm old. When I was a kid we could get 4 hamburgers for a dollar. Ever heard of "penny candy"? We used to buy it... Between then and now my "2 to 45 cents" is probably way wrong...😉

In my experience, they often have the part number moulded-in on the inside surface. Should at least tell you what samples you have.

This is one I am working on on currently- trying to work out what is involved for the set

In respect of right hand drive (R-Drive) variants of the steering wheel cover I can find, these are as follows: Europe R-Drive: 48470-E4101 to 06/72, 48470-N3200: 07/72 to 07/73, 48470-N3400 (two seater and 2+2): 08/73 to 07/76 and 48470-N3410 from 08/76. Japanese market: 48470-N3402 to 06/78, 48470-N3403 from (presumably) 07/76 on.

Have you tried a new condenser? Just removing it from the circuit won't do it, you may get a weak spark without it, but it won't be enough for ignition. The condenser isn't there just to protect the points but to also provide a strong spark.

Bob convinced Camel to sponsor the Pace Car. It was built as a backup Race Car, in case anything happened to the BSR Race Car. They were both built at the same time.

I think the float bouncing around is part of it. I also think that you can get on the downhill slope of the float tang, and once that happens, you're doomed. Wideband testing would be cool. I know there are people here that think the mixture ratio is highly affected by the float level. I'm not one of them. I believe float level has an effect, but I don't think it's that stark. Of course, however, without testing data, neither camp is anything but speculation. Wideband data would be very interesting.

I haven't seen anything in this thread that eliminates anything since it's mostly been shotgun diagnostics.

I suspect you'll find the fuel level lower than spec. I also suspect that it'll run ok even with the lower level. You might starve for fuel at WOT going up a big hill, but for around the neighborhood testing, I would wager that you'll be OK. As for final positioning of your nozzles, I've found that 2 1/2 turns down is pretty good for stock. With the changes you made to the engine, maybe you need a little more than that? I wouldn't start to be concerned until you're finding it won't run well below say three turns down. At that point, I'd be looking for a vacuum leak.

Don't let your wife read that! https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ aka "Blue's Tech Tips" and this forum is all I needed and I don't have any cents.