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Anything connected to the "Guild" MUST be taken with a large grain of salt!

Glad to see Paul Taylor finally getting some recognition, it was his 240. New owner should get in touch w/me for a lot more info than indicated

The parts site shows no change of location over the years. Part 25, I think. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-gear/25

Wow, zKars, very astute. You are correct, this window was indeed from another vehicle. The only reason I didn't want to use the glass that came with the car is because it has more substantial scratches along the bottom of the glass. The year of the other vehicle that that the door glass came out of is unknown, I bought a complete door and took the glass out of it. Upon closer inspection of the door, the inner bracing looks to be different between the donor door and my door: Donor: My car: You are also correct that the guides are indeed slightly different Donor window rear guide: My car glass rear guide: Donor front guide: My car front guide: Comparison photo, donor on bottom, my car on top So it looks like I'll need to use the glass that came with my car, or could I just swap to the regulator that came with the donor door? Not sure what condition it's currently in. I'm assuming the donor door was off a 240z.

Yeah, I had little doubt it wasn't that easy. But I have to ask. Haha!! If you have one of these (commonly known as a layout caliper), you could push the piston in and reach behind the retaining ring to set this thing for the inside diameter. Then take it out and use your caliper to measure the jaw width. If you don't have a layout caliper and are really really desperate, you could use a piece of coat hanger bent into a "U" shape. If you do it right, you should be able to get a reality check quality measurement.

Making a reappearance on Bring a Trailer after about a 5 year hiatus https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-128/

p.s. it should work. Probably best to match the year of booster. Not clear what changed for 82 and 83 280ZX's, which are left out of the fit list.

The measurement should be at the narrowest part of the taper. In order to get a good reading, you might have to push the brake piston in a little bit to expose the surface on which to put the calipers. Or you might be able to just catch a little bit of the bore at the bottom of the taper even without pushing the piston in. And if you are just "reality checking" to make sure you have the right master cylinder for your car, that might be accurate enough.

If you are going that far I would replace the evap since they are available (for now). IIRC it comes with a modernish expansion valve which is a good thing. I presume the under hood kit has the right condenser to work with R134. I looks like a PF condenser. I seem to recall two aftermarket evaps out there, one was all alum and the other looked to be copper wit alum fins. I think all alum would be better for performance since the orig was that way.