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As difficult and embarrassing as it is to post this, I am an idiot... but nevertheless I found the problem. When I set up my spark plug wires I referenced the ignition section of my Haynes manual and simply looked at the numbers as they were written without taking notice that the 3 and 6 cylinder cross before going to the plugs. Seems odd that they would do what they did with 1 and 4 but do something different at 3 and 6... but no excuses, my dumb mistake. so last night as i was reading the engine section, i came across this phrase and thought to myself, that's not how I have it... i went out, redid the wires and it fired up and idles. Just needs some fine tuning at this point. @Zed Head i then logged in here and saw your post... you had it right.... I guess it's another lesson learned... start with the simple stuff and look/read closely... thank you all for the support... and sorry for the frustration. @siteunseen if you can still send a picture of that condensor connection, that would be great. I'll be gone for 3 weeks so no rush.

Wow is all I can say 464f5f2c-e7c2-4dd9-affb-6d86115b0fea.mp4

If you haven’t already Go to the section on the website and download/print the FSM for your car. You will find it to be a better document to follow in the future. Sometimes on eBay you can find a factory FSM for sale. Glad you found the major problem. Probably a little more tweaking to be done but you’re heading in the right direction .

I'll look at both cars tomorrow and take a photo of the condenser if I have one. I switched my 240 and 280 to the ZX distributor and I'm thinking I did away with it? For some reason I think I had to get it gone so my tachometer would work with the ZX dizzy setup. @SteveJ would know what it does and if you need it. He's going to be hard to get though as he just bought one of the new Zs. He bruising bugs I'm sure. 400 hp he's most likely killing them.

I jinxed myself! i spent the night struggling with getting the heater panel in, cables run, had to weld the map light leads, and then the radio faceplate to secure it all down. it was a B!@#$ to get the 4 screws aligned, of course like so many I cracked one of the mount holes of the faceplate, and then after all that the seek scan is no longer working 😞 i still get that sweet sweet sound of am talk radio though lol. with the amount of work it took to get it all mounted i think i can live with using the tuner knob by hand 🙂 if i get this BT gizmo i'll report back if its any good.

Yeah, I like the look of the BRE spoiler. I'll pick up the front valance and get the headlight buckets repainted too. Right now that whole set is a bit off color from the rest of the car... not really noticeable to most but it really bugs me.. ha! Luckily I found the paint codes in my files from the original work. I didn't have that when the airdam and buckets were painted.

Because I believe TopGun1 was a US based bidder. And after the sale on BAT. The seller briefly relisted it on the Australian sites again before it was de-listed by the current seller. I think seller has invested too much in it and isn't willing to accept the loss personally. Fair enough, but still find it to be poor sportsmanship.

Speaking of which, I noted this R32 GTR was listed CarSales in Australia for $130k+. It dropped to $99k or so before being removed from the website, the URL now returns a 404. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1990-nissan-skyline-gt-r-r32-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-16397618/?Cr=0 It was also on Facebook under the name of Peter Yannopoulos After failing to sell locally the seller tried BAT hoping for a cashed up US buyer presumably? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-skyline-gt-r-45/ It apparently sold on BAT for $50,500 USD on 3/5/24 to user TopGun1 - https://bringatrailer.com/member/topgun1/ However it's been back on Facebook for a few months now under a different seller name (original seller name from memory was Peter) - (still hoping for $130k AUD) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/991650708967280/ I know it's not an S30Z, but the reason I share it is that it appears the seller was the 1 who reneged on the sale (not buyer), unhappy with the price achieved in the BAT auction. Despite it being listed with no apparent reserve on BAT. I think the seller was hoping that would drive aggressive bidding. I don't know what the top bidder thinks of this, but it also shows that despite the deal falling over, BAT still shows the vehicle as having been sold, the seller has not honoured the achieved price on BAT. I don't blame the seller for feeling the car was worth more, but they should never have agreed to a no reserve auction if that was the case. So I personally don't trust a lot of these auction sites and buying via them. Too many shenanigans going on and dishonest sellers for my liking.

I lost a "Z" hub cap when I took my Z out for a drive recently. So I decided to refinish a few caps, one replacement and a couple of spares. After digging through my stash, I found a few suitable donors. The topic of hubcap refinishing has been addressed before, but I thought I'd document the steps I took to bring these hub caps back to life. I began by removing the center ornaments. I used a pick to bend up the tabs on the retainer clips. The clips could then be pulled off. Next, the hub caps got a bath in hot, soapy water. After drying them off, I wiped them down with a wax & grease remover to make sure all dirt, grease & grime was completely removed. I keep a little PPG wax & grease remover in a spray bottle. Eastwood's Pre Painting Prep (or similar) would do, as well. Once clean, it was easy to spot the dents & dings. A little hammer & dolly work straightened things out. Next, I used paint stripper to remove the old paint, which is pretty thin. I put the hub cap in a large plastic tub that I got at Ace Hardware to prevent from making a mess. I poured a little stripper into a clean vegetable can and used a chip brush with natural bristles to apply it. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to prevent getting any on your hands. The old paint started to wrinkle within a few seconds of applying the paint stripper. I rinsed the caps off and used a green scouring pad to remove all of the old paint. Repeat as needed to remove all of the old paint.

Nice job, Kenny. You have a knack for the details. Don't sell your work too short.

Great post. Nice work. I just had a thought: You should put a sticker with your phone number on the inside of the hubcap. Incase you ever lose one in the future, your chances of getting it back would be better.

It's obvious that you have the patience and delicate touch nessesary to get beautiful results like this. The finished product looks absolutely stunning. Nice work! Thanks for the tutorial.

Now it's time to mask off the areas that won't be painted. I used Scotch green tape. The 1/4" tape is perfect for outlining the scallops and the outer edges of the hub cap. I found it easier to stick a small section of the 3/4" tape in the "corners" of the scallops and trim to size with an X-acto knife. The 1/4" tape bunches up on the inside of the bend in the tight corners. After masking the hub cap, I wiped it with a tack rag to remove any dust. Then I applied 2-3 light coats of SEM etch primer. I let the primer dry overnight, although it says on the can that it can be top coated after 1 hour. When I repainted the grille, rear finisher & hubcaps on my '73 I had a local paint shop mix up a pint of paint using the "recipe" outlined in Wick Humble's book. It is a silver/grey metallic with flattener. Fortunately, I had some left. I used a Sharpe Cobalt gravity feed gun to spray the top coat. I applied 3 light coats, waiting 5-10 minutes between each coat Once the paint was dry I removed all of the masking tape. The cap is starting to look nice! I polished up the center ornament with a couple of Meguiar's products (see http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20583&highlight=hubcap). With a polished center ornament attached this hubcap is ready to put on the car. Might not be 100% show car quality, but darn nice for a Z that is driven! Now I've got a couple of spares in case I lose one again!