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First, some answers... For the 71 four-screw lids, You should be using the 18.5mm long valves. So what you are using there sounds fine. The target float level for the 71 lids is 20mm below the lid, but I believe anything close (18-22) should be fine. When I went through the same thing, the only solution I could come up with was to add weight to the floats. This 4g brass plug threaded into the side of the float worked well:

If the smoke dissipates quickly it's most likely coolant. If it hangs in the air for a while it's oil smoke.

That's good. You came up with a solution. Good for you!

Thanks Chas. I looked through my pics and don't have anything good, but I believe the three connections to the antenna switch are three independent spade connectors on three loose wires. I'll confirm when I get a chance unless someone beats me to it. I'll work on the "vintage" style diagram and you can work up the "new style color" version. Might just be me, but I'm finding working on an early car is enjoyable using an early wiring diagram. Cleaned up and corrected, of course. Kinda quirky. So how would you like me to communicate mistakes on your diagram? Screen shots? For example, like this:

What's the part number of the new injectors? Maybe put the original ones back in. The hose on the injector can be replaced easily. One possibility is valve seals. Maybe they finally gave up the ghost. Gasoline smoke would smell terrible. Rich conditions smell like raw gasoline before the smoking gets bad. If you're not smelling gasoline I'd suspect oil. p.s. if you're sure it's gasoline check your fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragms are known to rupture. Pull the vacuum hose, if it's blown the hose will have liquid fuel in it. The extra fuel would have a bigger effect when the engine is hot.

Looking through the drawings to see what I was up too 9 years ago🫣 Most of the terminal layouts are from the service manuals and photo's members posted in threads on this site. I made some screen shots of some of the sections still kissing the terminals. I remember working on the antenna switch, but could not find a photo of its terminal block. I think I'll first update the schema with the remarks from @Namerow and @Captain Obvious b

Spoke to Jason at the UJointStore (where I had ordered the TUS-10's) - based on my measurements, my prop shaft takes the TUS-11a - .947" cap OD, 1.65" yoke land spacing