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Interesting to note - The deck lid vent system used in the early Zs is the same system used in the 510 wagon, a rather complex, multi part, system.

Glad you made it home safe. That sucks to have two incidents like that in one day. Maybe you were just not meant to be at that Volvo meet.

Cody worked on the brake booster some. I found a longer clevis. It also has a larger diameter pin which fits better in the pedal This brought the pedal height up and against the brake switch We messed with quarter windows last weekend. It was frustrating. Probably one of the tougher jobs to do, especially by yourself and get them right. We did get them installed last weekend. I wrapped a string around them to make it easier to get the lip turned out properly. But at the back of the drivers side window, it got really tight to the body and the seal ripped instead of turning out. On the passenger side, I wrapped the seal too tight to the glass and it didn't seal at the back corner of the glass Fortunately for some odd reason I had an extra set of quarter window seals. So this week in the evenings I redid the quarter window seals. We put them back in yesterday They both pretty much seal but they're still not quite right. The passenger side gap closed up but the seal turns in a little at the back becuase it doesn't have enough pressure on it to make it flair evenly. The drivers side does the same thing but in a different location. I visited Inline6 this week and saw his immaculate car. He said he used a slice of a bondo spreader to work the lips out from the inside of the car. It is flexible to put it down between the glass frame and the body to push from the inside. Tips for quarter windows. Grannyknots pick idea works really good to help manipulate the frames. Also just get the screws all started then work on getting the lips all turned out. The windows will still move a little until they're all the way tightened down. Also if the doors are off you can use the door jamb up by the door hinges to help push with your foot to get enough force to push the window back in place I finished the inner weatherstrip on the hatch yesterday and got the hatch back on. It sits a good bit proud of the body because it's so new. Hopefully it will relax over time I also used some silicone grease on the weatherstrip at the hood hinges to keep the hinge screws from nipping the weatherstrip. Seems to be working

Dave had some Safari Gold T shirts made up, gotta love this guy.

Hitoshi Uemura told me that the vented quarter panel design update saved both manufacturing time and parts costs, deleting the complex vents & drains in the tailgate which were made up of many individual components and which took time to assemble. The vented quarters function was pretty much achieved at the metal stamping and spotwelding stage, with just a push-on vent/emblem on the outside (popped on after paint) and simple holes in the hard plastic interior trim. A neat solution.

Bart, you got like mine a early '71 .. i would call it a series 1,5 hahaha.. vertical heating on rear glass and vented quarter instead of vented tailgate.. I'm very happy to have the vented quarter. much less problems with maintenance and good ventilation without the back incoming exhaustgasses. My car is a feb. 1971 240z original it was grey/silver with black interior. it's now red for over 30 years.. To make the mix even worse haha i put in a 5 speed gearbox with 3,9 diff. (From my orig.dutch imported car) It drives very good, Bart can confirm, only at 210km/h it gets a bit shaky!! 🙂 Last month i bought myself a diff arrestor as my car HAS NONE!! (i think it went out the door when some "mechanics" installed a 2mm thick floor in my car.. Later on i got rid of that 25kg (55 pounds!) floor! and installed a better 1mm floor and some damping material) Now i need to install the diffarrestor...

That is a problem with restoring a car. It may look great to others, but you know every flaw and its hard to unsee them! There arent a lot of people out there that can completely tear down and rebuild an entire car. Dont sweat the small stuff it looks great and you will have more fun with it out of the shop than collecting dust worried about a mismatching body panel!! At least thats what I told myself 🙂

I own a 1/71 car "Series 1", and I had someone approach the car and start pointing at all the incorrect things on my car. The fun part is , my car is all original and unrestored. I just said thank you.

I don't find the Series 1 / 2 terminology offensive. I look at it as a general description that gives some idea of the traits the car could have. It's not normally used as a hard and fast rule or an absolute. I find the terminology very helpful and always have. If I want exactness I use production dates but it's very rare I care that much.

Here are some pictures of the general condition of the car

Hell of a day today. Left home with the Mrs. at 9am to head upstate for the annual Volvo car meet. We got about 30miles north & then the pickup died. I tried to fix it, but there was no spark & I had no parts to fix it on the spot. SO, we got towed back home around noon. I still wanted to get up to Ithaca for the meet, so repacked the C30 & left on my own, the Mrs. had had it. I got about 2 hours or so into the drive & then this happened Single lane traffic through a construction zone, basically we were all on the shoulder. Section of roadway heaved, broke the Tesla in front of me, I moved over as far as I could without hitting the concrete divide, and got the broken wheel & a bent strut tube Just a little extra camber I put the space saver on it & drove the remaining 90 miles at 40-45mph. That was excruciating, but at least I made it, and ppl up here were able to source a strut tube, so I can change that tomorrow, if all goes well. I'll have to drive downstate on the space saver, which won't be fun, but at least I won't need to be towed all the way home.