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Back to the Future

So last weekend and early this week I went to the shop for a little while I stitched up the pocket Then dressed them down After trying the hinges again, I added some clearance at the gutter edge on both sides. After that I brushed on some zinc rich primer. A little seam sealer and it aught to be ready to reassemble. Hopefully I can get the hatch flush now. If not it will have to wait for another day. This was going to be my project this weekend, but I've been sick all week and I haven't gotten over the hump yet... I might make it to the shop for an hour or so tomorrow.

Got a muffler for Cody's car. This should fit

This one is listed for $250 obo in the classified section. 77-78 completely rebuilt.

I did find a few pictures. Not as many as I had hoped though. I got a little lax about taking photos over the years. I still need to finish putting the car back together at this point.

"Driving" will require a working clutch and brakes. They take a lot of work once they get corroded and crusty. That car has obviously been sitting for many many years. You might eventually get to hear the engine run but it will probably take much more time and effort before you feel it moving under its own power. Have you pushed the clutch pedal down yet? I'm assuming it's not an automatic. Besides that, you'll probably want a gas tank that holds fuel and a pump that pumps it. Have you looked inside the tank yet?

Yes MIG by leaning over into the car. Hard to see but I didn't get all burned up that way. Bought through JDM Car Parts but probably all produced from the same point

Actually you removed the carbs and intake manifolds. Maybe that's where the earlier confusion came from. In the picture I posted above it showed the intake manifolds still attached to the engine. Yes, the nuts underneath the manifolds are hard to get to. The more pictures you post the nastier the whole situation looks. What is your end goal? You have a ton of work ahead of you if you want to drive it.

I don't have a lot of experience with Borla. I had a lot of specific requirements for the muffler. So I only had like 3 options and the Borla was the only polished one. They have a pretty good reputation. So we'll see how it sounds

That’s a Doozy right there. It’s cracked to the core!!

So I did make it to the shop today for an hour or so. I put the hatch hinges back in with some sealant. They both go down nice and level to each other. Hopefully that is enough. I also worked on stripping the dash pad Here's where we started I recommend you take this piece at the glove box hinge out first and remove the hazard switch. I broke mine moving the dash around. Inside details

There is no how-to guide on blocking coolant lines. Mechanic's ingenuity is required. The piece of hose and a bolt is a roadside fix. Temporary and unreliable. (Oops, site posted at the same time. No offense intended Cliff! Double oops. Cliff fixed it at the end (I don't read good). We are in agreement.) Follow whatever line you're trying to block back to its source. Choose the approariate blockage method. Here are some samples. These are pretty good. You'll need to measure. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/compression-fittings/shape~cap-and-plug/ These are good if there's a fitting. BSPT is the thread type. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/plugs/pipe-plugs~/?s=brass+plugs+bspt For the carb lines you could just bypass the carbs. Just connect the two ends together. You'll lose some cooling power since the fluid won't be passing through the radiator. I'm not 100% on inlet and outlet but I think that it's these two ends. Maybe somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

@zKars, I've got the clutch pedal out of my 280 at this very moment, and no surprise, the clevis pin and it's associated hole in the pedal is worn and needs to be addressed. Not as bad as what 2377kN found, but bad enough that it's time to do something about it. Have you got any pics of your solution where you installed a bearing into the pedal hole? I'm hoping you could save me from reinventing the wheel here. I mean, I could certainly just bore out the hole and use a larger clevis pin, but a bearing... That's sweet.

Looks like a nice new Vintage dash!

Careful removal of undercoating and grease revealed a partial number on most mustache …. I’m thinking they were all the same with 240s… Too aggressive I was while “gently scrubbing” 1

Yes. We have another manifold attached to the round top carbs. We will just put the whole new manifold on. The last carbs were dine and most people say to go with the round tops. The main questions are which lines can be eliminated. ?? Can someone point that out in a photo?? Why tons of work. ? The new manifold bolts right on then it’s just the hoses.