Leaderboard

So yesterday I was home early and Shelley ran me off to the shop to make some progress. So I worked on the drivers axle some more... Here is the end of the axle. Very tapered and no burrs. So I unbolted the top of the strut and layed it down out of the way. I put the adapter plate on and beat on it some to dome the grease cap out some to give me a little more room I put a some grease on the snap ring in the differential and tried to work it around some. The I took the 3# dead blow hammer and I got it to seat. The bolts that go in from the stub axle side just barely fit I got it all in and aligned. I does sort of bind at full droop, but if you lift the hub a couple of inches it has some play in it. I am not sure if the tulip on the inboard end is reversible. At this point I'm moving on. I will double check once the car is down on it's wheels and revisit it if it becomes a problem.

I can help with the location of the 3 little loops in Steve's kit. and the "other" little horseshoe bumper (pic #1). I looked through the collection and found them. As to install, just "slip them on" as they say. With tweezers, high mag reading glasses, swearing, beer/whiskey etc

I can only imagine the feeling! congrats Dave! man this build is going so quickly!

I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-lock-mechanism-set

Today, for the very first time, I have, in my hands (well, attached to a z) a latch set, left and right that STILL have BOTH of the rubber coverings on the lock rotating part that touches the striker first! The passenger door (first couple of pics) shows that the rubber is worn through where it touches the striker, but its still hanging on for dear life. The drivers miraculously, has none of this wear. No clue how that has happened, but there it is. This is car is 1/71 VIN 18xxx with 80k miles on it. Arizona all of its life, but brought to Canada 20ish years ago and stored indoors since. As you can imagine, I have a "few" latch sets in my inventory, and absolutely NONE of them have any remnant of these rubber parts. Just had to share.

I actually contacted a couple of other people. Got my question answered. Wildwood micro kit on TTT and silvermine will work in the front and rear but the rear e-brake cable hits the wheels and requires a spacer or no e-brake) The guy I talked to has a 12mm spacer not sure if anything smaller will work to clear the cable. The S12+8 front brakes (stage 3 on silvermine) fit and require only a 2mm spacer or 2mm to be shaved but someone else got away without shaving so it's 50/50 direct fit. And the rear disc brake conversion from Z car depot or the stage 4 rear brakes from silvermine will work with no spacer. Writing this Incase anyone needs an answer.

I just found out it is used for the amp meter . disregard

After work yesterday I got the left door hinges attached, the pane of glass installed, and some glazing putty on a couple other loose panes, then primer on the replaced wood, in time for it to dry (hopefully enough) before the rain started. got some top coat on the doors and jambs, sorted out the door latches

Dave takes his first drive,